Jason's 'top' village Burgundy

• 2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  A really good bottle. Rich and vibrant without being heavy. Green-tinged nose, with hazelnut. Bright and tasty, some grip, good length and a vivacious finish. Mmm...

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• 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin La Pucelle Blanc 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin

  Steely, with some struck match - yup, it's 2014 and it's PYCM. Complex, tangy and lithe, plenty of Rose's lime cordial and a touch of cream. The fruit filled out with air, leaving a peppy, juicy, chewy and rather delightful wine.

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• 2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Very much on the broader side, with vanilla, lemon cream and ripe yellow fruit. Softer than the other two whites, but not completely soft. With air a wonderful note of plum and custard patisserie. Another 2017 behaving a bit like people thought the 2018s would; not to everyone's taste tonight, but I rather liked it.

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• 2018 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet

  Very Pillot, precise but not at all spiky, not too assertive but with plenty to say. Just a touch of reduction and a feeling of airy weightlessness. Clean as a whistle on the palate, some juicy green melon and green apple, pretty and harmonious, then some smoke on the finish. Felt ready, but should keep for years. My favourite white tonight for its 'Goldilocks' qualities - not too sharp, nor too broad.

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• 2006 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

  Bright, detailed nose that was immediately evocative of the autumn to come, then duskily floral and, with more air, quite sexy, like exotic cologne; my single favourite feature of all tonight's wines. Still quite grippy and tannic on the palate, with some maturity to the flavour profile. Oozed class.

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• 2006 Dujac Fils et Père Morey St. Denis 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

  Brighter and more weightless than its Domaine peer, with less fruit and more flowers. Initially that made it seem more attractive than the other wine, but as the Domaine wine became more beautiful with air this one seemed to fall back a little. Good acidity, pretty, creamy red-fruited palate, smooth sandy tannins.

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• 2011 Domaine David Clark Vosne-Romanée 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  A real pleasure at first, seeming quite mature and big for a 2011, then somehow clammed up and thinned out. Cherry fruit, some rose petal, lots of acidity, slightly disjointed.

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• 2015 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis Tres Girard 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

  Immediately attractive, and remained so until the last sip. Very pure red fruit, yet also spicy and floral. Lots of substance, but well-judged rather than OTT or heavy. Really energetic. Some grip, but felt surprisingly ready. My #2 red tonight after the Dujac.

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• 2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Santenay Vieilles Vignes Ceps Centenaires 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay

  Slightly cloudy, and a touch of mustiness, which luckily blew off to reveal a more spicy, woody, exotic nose. Rounded, soft and charming, as one might expect from a 2009 Santenay - a point. Decent length too. I much preferred a 2010 of this I tried a few weeks ago, though.

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• 2017 Gilbert et Christine Felettig Nuits St. Georges 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  Bright and spicy, but felt a touch closed, and that sense only increased. Deep on the palate, strawberries and cream, relatively sharp. Good, but a bit bland in this esteemed company.

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• 2017 Henri et Gilles Remoriquet Nuits St. Georges 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges

  I found this somewhat challenging - not surprising, given I'm a slight wholebunchphobe. Banana sweets and acetone on the extremely bright, stemmy, high-toned nose, that verged on the confected but luckily settled down with air. Tasty on the palate, rather pretty, but primary and with a bitter finish.

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• 2009 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Some volatility, real lift and some tempting gamey notes - very grown-up and appealing. Lip-smacking on the palate, with bright grippy fruit, good acidity and a long finish. Not very 2009, but in a good way.

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• 2010 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Quite evolved. Gamey, bright, energetic nose, with a touch of cigar. Crisp, red-fruited, very mineral on the palate. Lovely wine, but couldn't compete on the night with Fourrier and Trapet.

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• 2016 Domaine Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  Very similar experience to my note from 2021. Rich, deep, pure nose, with hints of complexity to come. Lovely red fruit on the palate, a touch of tannin and then some greenish stems. Really pretty wine. My #3 red tonight.

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• 1997 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Haut-Lieu 94 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

  Any fear of palate fatigue was dispelled instantly I was presented with this wine, which really hit the spot and provided an enjoyable change of pace to the usual Sauternes. A gorgeous amber colour. Lots of wet wool and apricot on the nose, and some ginger. Just a touch of honey on the palate, spiced orange, and yet more spice on the finish. Plenty of acidity to avoid any feeling of heaviness. So tasty!

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What an enjoyable evening, with consistent wines and great company