2008 red Burgs

Noize
Tasted Wednesday, June 7, 2023 by NickA with 121 views

Introduction

We had a hunch that the 2008s might now be giving some pleasure, so put the vintage next on the list of Burgundy horizontals.

Flight 1 - Gougeres (1 Note)

  • 2008 Alfred Gratien Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 91 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Creamy and inviting on the nose, which was soft and ethereal with a touch of vanilla. Then on the palate the stereotypical character of a 2008 BdB: lean, citric and precise, very clean and elegant, and slightly saline. An excellent aperitif, though a bit hard-edged at the moment for my palate; likely to be superb in 2-3 years' time.

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Flight 2 - Poached Cod, Turnips, Seaweed and Mussel Emulsion (2 Notes)

  • 2012 Coche-Bizouard Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    A complex but nicely integrated nose, that had some clementine fruit (which smelled great), a hint of savoury maturity and became slightly oakier with time in the glass. That character carried across on the palate, which again seemed beautifully smooth as well as crisp and peachy, and went wonderfully with our fish. Probably my favourite wine tonight.

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  • 2015 Michel Bouzereau et Fils Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Ripe and rounded on the nose, almost heady, with the alcohol protruding a little for the first 5-10 minutes (even though the wine states it's 13.5%). Nicely ample - rather than fat - on the palate, with a green edge and an attractive roll-off from the midpalate fruit towards a refreshingly bitter finish. Still a very nice wine, but the 2012 we had alongside highlighted its need of a bit more time to come together.

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Flight 3 - Cornish Chicken Breast, Jersey Royals, Mushroom Sauce (2 Notes)

  • 2008 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Chambolle-Musigny 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

    Served deliciously cool, and full of flavour and energy. The wine was sensual and well-balanced, and fairly mature, with a touch of truffle and funk on the nose, and sundried tomato and some game seasoning the bright red fruit to be enjoyed on the palate. This wine had lots of personality and stood up well to the 1er cru it was served with, and we likely caught it at its peak.

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  • 2008 Maison Roche de Bellene Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    A richer, more exotic wine than the village that accompanied it, but not necessarily more enjoyable than it. Spice box and Cherry Drops on the nose, and lots of purple fruit and a touch of sherbert on the palate. At first the strawberry-flavoured finish seemed long and fine, but as time passed it seemed to clam up and shorten. I liked this a lot, but was very slightly unsatisfied given the pedigree of the vineyard; whether it will improve seems unclear, given the relatively light structure.

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Flight 4 - Loin of Venison, Spring Vegetables, Chickpea Panisse (3 Notes)

  • 2008 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Flamboyant and a bit heady on the nose, with an exotic feel, fresh red fruit and some orange rind and rose... it smelled pretty great. Then more '2008' on the palate, which was sharp and lithe, with the flavour of cough sweets and a slightly tight and astringent side.

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Energetic and beautifully ripe on the nose, with plenty of fairly primary fruit as well as some more mature gamey notes. Dark, savoury and saline on the palate, but in a lean register (especially for a Mortet), and then a lovely long finish.

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  • 2008 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

    Put up against the Lavaux, and was not at all overawed. Very aromatic in a smoky, brambly way, the nose fanning out beautifully. Crisp and punchy on the attractively lean palate, with quite a bit going on: damp earth, summer pudding and a touch of game. Saline, like the Lavaux. Persistent, mineral, savoury finish. In a great place!

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Flight 5 - Comté, Saint-Nectaire, Epoisses (3 Notes)

Closing

Well, what a lovely surprise! We'd guessed around half the wines might turn out to be shrill and unpleasant, but in fact that was the case for precisely none of them. Lots of red fruit and bright acidity, sure, but nothing unbalanced or overly challenging... would be happy to buy more 08s at the right price.

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