Magnum Mike's Half Century Blow Out

Such a wonderful lunch with great friends and company. What really struck me was that, while I had a great time sat where I was, I could have sat anywhere at the table and been in superb company.

Incredible generosity from our host, and superb work by the kitchen and FOH staff at La T.

Notes all from memory as I foolishly left my paper behind...

Iced horseradish! Who knew. No-one will eat it uniced in future. This was a superb dish.

• 2006 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

  France, Champagne

  A very generous start to proceedings. Very engaging nose. On the palate - a bit broader shouldered than previous Cristals I've tasted, some depth and almost sweetness.

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• 2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

  France, Champagne

  Lots of zip here - a tiniest bit of sulphur on the nose perhaps. On the palate, a ton of energy, it's linear and precise but draws you in. I tasted this from bottle last year and this was the same but just a little better in every dimension. We did a vote of which wine people wanted to take a bottle away of (from the fizz, whites and reds) - this was my choice, and the group's joint second.

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• 1998 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare

  France, Champagne

  This was lovely - a hint of bruised apple, a bit of sweetness on the end. If the Taittinger was intense and highly strung, this was a bit scandalous and badly behaved. A party that started with this could well end up with a visit to the police station.

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• NV Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Fût de Chêne MV18

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Served as a cheeky extra when one of the demi mags of Chablis turned out to be shot. This was great - according to the great minds of the table made in traditional rose champagne style by mixing in a small amount of red wine. Made in Champagne from Girders. This really exciting edge (presumably given by the oak treatment) - took me a little while to get my head round it. One fellow diner described it as "provencal rosé with bubbles" and I think that describes the essence of it.
  
  Some discussion as to whether or not this would be a crowd pleaser - i was in the minority view, but if I am ever in a crowd, I would be very pleased to have this provided.

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• 2007 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Small pour as one of the bottles was shot. As with all my notes on chablis, this one starts with an apology - i am still yet to really understand it. A waxiness on the nose, which persisted on the palate. Some length, an attractive candied lemon beneath it. This was the table's top wine in the vote for - one bottle you can take away with you at the end (from the fizz, whites and reds).

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• 2019 Alvina Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

  This was lovely - probably my pick of the whites. Hard to give it the attention it deserved but there was a real Puligny class to it, with a kind of acid precision but a generosity on the palate. Had been really enjoying 17 white burg recently but based on this showing 19 demands closer attention.

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• 2014 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard

  New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu

  My handwritten notes on this comprised a single word - "standard". This is just as it should be - it's tasted the same from bottle and mag, and seems to just stay the same. A bit more tropical fruit, a bit more richness on the finish than the burgs.

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• 2009 Ridge Geyserville

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  Yee haw. I'm on a bit of a Ridge tip at the moment but even so, this was on song. The nose just draws you in, all the spice you want and something, maybe blueberries? that give it a little lift. On the palate - it's big but the acidity keeps in check, no flab here, a kind of chocolatey note perhaps, this is really in the zone just now.

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• 2013 Vérité La Muse

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  Still but a pup! Tightly coiled, the fruit manages to hold the oak at bay but this is still very early. Jolly good new world bdx blend, would love to revisit in a decade or two.

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• 1986 Dominus Estate

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Top drawer old Cali Cab. On the nose - some cedar, pencil lead, just a whiff of brett perhaps? Some discussion as to whether one would be able to tell this blind from Bordeaux - sometimes I thought yes, sometimes I thought no, either way - a treat and a half.

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A real joy to have four champagnes at the start - they really were the stars of the meal for me. The red flight was fantastic - stars all of them. Most of the wines we were served would have merited an evening of contemplation on their own.