Piedmont night
Tasted Friday, April 5, 2024 by melvinyeowq with 86 views
Introduction
Piedmont tasting that was quite educational because I haven’t had the modernists together to do a comparison before. On the spectrum Clerico was the most oaky and extracted by far, and agree with a friend who always maintained that Altare and Sandrone (not present today) are the best modernists. But no doubt my heart belonged to the traditionalists today, in particular the transcendental Giacosa red label. Think we drink to chase these fleeting moments where the wine imparts such emotions and speaks so clearly to you
NV Marc Hébrart Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé 92 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Brought this to kick things off. Always a consistent winner with fresh, creamy strawberry fruit.
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2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 80 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Served as trio of '04, '06, '08 vertical. Was the only thought that this was the oldest since the tannins were drying out the most (that was saying something since all of them had ferocious, unforgiving tannins). Minty, spicy nose; not enough fruit on the palate to stand up to the harsh tannins. A mess of a wine.
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2006 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 90 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
My contribution. Served as trio of '04, '06, '08 vertical. Had the most supple, sweetest fruit of the trio to withstand the oak treatment, but still had distracting drying tannins.
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2008 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin 80 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Served as trio of '04, '06, '08 vertical. Was the only one who thought this was the youngest, but was clear to me from inky, purple fruit. Fans of big South American Cabs and wines with a bitter finish would be fans of this.
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2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina 70 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Tasted like a modern, international right-bank Bordeaux. Oaky, tannic and over-extracted; this came after the Ciabot Mentin trio and had a similar producer signature but dialled up by several notches. Was saying that Nebbiolo should have sweet, not bitter fruit. Had a sip and poured it out.
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2004 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Clearly modern with the spice and menthol notes but not overly so. Still very youthful so I guessed 2010. Explosive nose of pretty cherry fruit but the palate lacked the same punch.
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2006 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Coincidentally we had two bottles of this. The one that was opened since the morning was glorious; silky and sensual red fruit with a tannic bite that led me to consistently guess all the G. Mascarellos as Bartolo on the night. Unfortunately the one that was popped and poured was all tannins and not very giving.
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2006 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Similar to the Monprivato but much more approachable. Intense cherry fruit, superb nose and texture on the palate. More pleasurable now but less structure to age than the Monprivato. A very pretty wine.
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2004 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 94 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Dibbs (see note below) who brought it opened this in the morning for dinner. Wrongly guessed Bartolo again. Sweet strawberry fruit, scent of rose petals. Loved the silky texture but tannins were still a bit harsh now. Immaculate wine that has a lot more to give.
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2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I knew the identity of this wine but would have thought modern if blinded because of the savoury, tarry notes. Decadent wine with rich, creamy dark fruit; usually not my preferred style but wasn't offended by this.
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2008 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 91 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Pretty Roagna nose, with sweet dark cherry fruit. Think I prefer the later iterations of Roagna which have more lift and etherealness. Felt like an in-between phase similar to the transition period for old and new Faiveleys, if you get my drift.
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2008 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Similar to the '09 Langhe Arborina that I had a few weeks ago but this had more structure and was less pretty. Clearly modern but with well-judged oak use that allowed the wine to stay true to its varietal. Sensual texture with silky, dark maraschino cherries.
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2010 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis 80 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Incredibly tannic, with black spicy fruit that made it borderline undrinkable.
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2013 Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo 93 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
My extra. I recall when I had this wine in 2019 it really opened up my eyes to how elegant Nebbiolo can be, glad to say 5 years later the wine is still going strong. Understated, restrained dark red fruit with an elegant, sensual texture. Not going to improve any further but such a pleasurable drink.
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1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano 96 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Had a sniff and sip, and said that this is fucking Giacosa. Don't think I need to elaborate beyond that, except to say it's rare to find a wine like this that is firing on all cylinders. So weightless and perfectly balanced, a wish-you-were-here kind of wine for sure.
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1996 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Brought by a friend as a ringer but oxidised.
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