Vias Imports 2008 Portfolio Tasting

Times Square, NYC
Tasted Monday, September 8, 2008 by RajivAyyangar with 1,268 views

Introduction

The room had ~20 tables arranged around the perimeter, with islands in the center for bread, cheese, grappa, and the one liquid that kept my palate from dying: Pellegrino. The food was really friggen good - fresh cut ham, prosciutto, the best parmegiano regiano I've ever tasted (I think this is what Eric was talking about when he mentioned the cheese from the center of the wheel - it was like barfi, an indian sweet!). Killer olive oil with smoky, nutty tones. Great bread. If I hadn't been so focused on the wine, I could have done some serious damage with the food. One thing I did notice is that eating food seemed to help me get the acetaldehyde out of my palate. On the other hand, the prosciutto was so salty that it stung my tongue (which by the time I had it was already torn apart by tannic Nebbs). The spit buckets were awkward, too shallow, and tended to splash. On the other hand, it wasn't too crowded, so I didn't have to make many long-distance sniper spits. Overall the wines were a little on the austere side, but delicious. There were a handful of wines that were incredibly enjoyable to taste, to the point where I stopped really analyzing, and could only nod my head and mentally exult that I was there, that day, tasting that wine, with good friends (JoeG and Julius).

Joe is a natural teacher, and I can't thank him enough for taking the time to dissect all of those wines.

I took my tasting notes on a digital voice recorder and the transcribing took some time. There may be inaccuracies. The scores should be taken as a reflection of the emotional impact the wine had on me then. Good scores are probably a sign of a wine that I would like. The converse, however, does not hold: many of the wines that showed poorly might have been a lot better if they had been 1) aged longer, or 2) decanted. It was hard for me as a novice to tell the difference between an austere wine and a wine that is tight but could open with decanting.

Notes are in chronological order, though we jumped around table-wise. The wines were grouped by geographic location.

Flight 1 (6 Notes)

Flight 2 (8 Notes)

  • 2006 Fattoria del Cerro Rosso di Montepulciano 75 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano

    Med red in the glass. N: some raisin character, bright red fruit. Lean in the mouth with unripe, sticky green tannins.

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  • 2005 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 80 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

    med+ red. Tight on nose. Oak treatment. In the mouth, good finish, with richer, riper tannins than the Rosso di Montepulciano. Ok

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  • 2003 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Antica Chiusina 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Montepulciano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

    Dark ruby in the glass. En-pointe sangio nose of leather, cherries, wet dog(brett), earth. Very nice. In the mouth it exhibits some blood character, rich texture, savory notes, ripe cherries, and ripe chewy tannins. Delicious. 91-93

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  • 2006 Bruni Morellino di Scansano Marteto 75 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Morellino di Scansano

    morelino = sangiovese in southern tuscany.

    med ruby. Nose: cool climate underripe aromas of green olives. Flavor profile on the cool side. Sticky green tannins, fruit fades, short

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  • 2004 Bruni Morellino di Scansano L'Aire 91 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Morellino di Scansano

    Dark ruby in the glass. Deep flavors on the nose, some olive - like really nice olive tapenade. In the mouth, richer, longer, rounder than the Marteto. Finish is balanced - fruit, acid, and tannins are all in balance. Very nice.

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  • 2006 Rocca di Frassinello Maremma Toscana Poggio alla Guardia 70 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana

    Medium red in the glass. Smells like paintball! Weirdness. Becomes disjointed really fast. Breaks down into tannins, acid, alcohol.

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  • 2005 Rocca di Frassinello Maremma Toscana Le Sughere 75 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana

    underripe flavors on the nose, olive hints. Nice richness in the mouth, green sticky tannins. Good food wine, but not for $50 retail! or similar.

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  • 2005 Rocca di Frassinello Maremma Toscana Rocca di Frassinello 80 Points

    Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana

    [end of A02] med+ ruby, shiny surface. Nose: leather, wet dog, sangio character "tuscan terroir for me has the most influence on a wine than the grapes. No matter what grapes you grow, these characteristics come out". In the mouth: rich savory med+ body, med to med+ alcohol. med acid (lower, but makes sense - we're further down south, warmer climate, lower acid). Huge tannins. Good finish, but the tannins stick around even after everything else. Not enough acid to clean your palate. Not really drinkable now - could use 3-5 years. Aging will help it, because it has the fruit and acid, alcohol, extraction, oak treatment - it just needs the tannins to calm down a bit. If you had it with food it would take care of itself. Now cheese pairing

    "This is food and wine: cured meat, bread, parmegiano reggiano. Nothing more complex"

    Cheese 1: Parmegiano - soft, reminds me of rich barfi. salty, really nice.
    + wine: Tannins still noticeable, but greatly dimished. Fruit still there. Salt in the cheese combats the tannins.

    Cheese 2: Blue cheese, brie-like, not too sharp, fatty and creamy.
    + wine: Tastes like liquid cheese. You don't taste the wine. Fatty food kills tannins, but also clogs your palate and kills the wine. The wine makes the cheese taste better, but it obliterates the wine. Salt also combats tannins, but doesn't overwhelm the wine.

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Flight 3 (6 Notes)

  • 1997 Fattoria San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Il San Lorenzo 70 Points

    Italy, Marche, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi

    Just released! 200/3, 80-90 retail.

    Light green-straw in the glass. Nose like the hair salon in mountain view by the sago place, nutty, smoky, oxidative character (not oxidized, though - no acetaldehyde). In the mouth, rancid walnut, really weird wine. " I think sometimes we try to get too cute in the wine business. Hey, let's age this for 10 years and see what happens." Very interesting, but not what I'd call delicious.

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  • 2005 Còlpetrone Montefalco Rosso 79 Points

    Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso

    med ruby. Full-bodied, earthy, med acid (a bit acid deficient),a little olives, a bit less ripe. Smells earthier on the nose than the other wines. Not a lot here. Simple, everyday.

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  • 2004 Còlpetrone Montefalco Sagrantino 88 Points

    Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

    Dark ruby in the glass. Plummy, rich fruit, a little baking spice, nutmeg, mint, nice oak treatment. Lots of baking spice in the mouth, a little of the mushroom quality, like in the Martinelli SdM and the Colpetrone MR. Med acid. It's good, but too expensive.

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  • 2006 Argillae Umbria 70 Points

    Italy, Umbria

    Cab/Merlot blend.

    N: Pyrazines, some olive. P: Short, disjointed.

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  • 2003 Le Caniette Rosso Piceno Morellone Flawed

    Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno

    Dark ruby in the glass. OXIDIZED. This caused me some distress, as several wines afterward smelled oxidized, when joe said they weren't.

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  • 2003 Le Caniette Rosso Piceno Nero di Vite Flawed

    Italy, Marche, Rosso Piceno

    Very dark in the glass. May not have been flawed - may have been ok, but it smelled oxidized to me. Probably the Morellone screwing my palate up. According to JLG, it was stunner.

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Flight 4 (1 Note)

After I smelled the oxidized Morellone, and the Nero di Vite also smelled oxidized, I took a little break and got some food to try to remove the acetaldehyde from my palate. This was my test wine to see if it was gone. It didn't smell oxidized so I rejoined Joe.

Flight 5 (7 Notes)

Flight 6 - South Africa (5 Notes)

This was a really great lineup of entry-level South African wines. They were straightforward and delicious. The pinotage was very distinctive, which I enjoyed.

  • 2006 Graham Beck Pinotage 86 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region

    Pinotage is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault. (Syrah is a cross between Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche).
    Smells like a belgian lambic beer - slightly sweet, rusty nail, brown banana, root beer. Very distinctive in the mouth. Light tannins, med body, round in the mouth.

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  • 2002 Graham Beck Syrah The Ridge 88 Points

    South Africa, Breede River Valley, Robertson

    N: tar, black olive. Smells black! Savory, earth, long, med acid. Identifiable syrah, med tannins. old world structure leads you right to south africa! very good!

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  • 2003 Graham Beck The William 88 Points

    South Africa, Coastal Region

    bordeaux blend with pinotage = "cape blend"

    Med color. Lots of olive, hominy, salvadorean tamales on the nose. A little pyrazines. Soft, flavorful, savory. good finish. For ~$16!

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  • 2007 Graham Beck Cabernet Sauvignon Gamekeeper's Reserve 90 Points

    South Africa, Western Cape

    Toasty, lots of oak. Pyrazines. Ripe pyrazines. Great balance. Also under $20!!!. Very nice. Will recommend to eric. Great flavor concentration.

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  • 2006 Graham Beck Brut Rosé Vintage 80 Points

    South Africa, Western Cape

    yeasty on the nose, little citrusy fruit, huge bubbles, decent acidity, yeasty on the finish. Nice and bready. Joe - 'The mousse was huge.' Big bubbles are a pet peeve of mine.

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Flight 7 - Argentina, Rhone, California (8 Notes)

I didn't really respond to any of these wines, except the Torrontes, which absolutely melted me with its nose, then pissed me off with the watery palate.

  • 2007 Carinae Vinos Torrontés Deneza 70 Points

    Argentina, Valles Calchaquíes, Salta, Cafayate

    Light straw in the glass. Amazingly voluptuous aromatics of lychee and rose. Oily texture, med body, light, airy in the mouth, med acid. Disappointing in the mouth - a little hollow. Short finish. Needs more acid.

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  • 2006 Bodega Benegas Malbec Juan Benegas 80 Points

    Argentina, Mendoza

    Black fruit, a little pyrazine. 'Argentina and washington state have similar climates - distinctive gritty tannins?' Something about moisture and mountains and wind patterns. Nice representative Argentinian malbec.

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  • 2007 Bodega Malma Picada 15 75 Points

    Argentina, Patagonia

    merlot/cab/pinot

    Not much on the nose. Olives on the palate. Not great.

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  • 2006 Maison Bouachon Côtes du Rhône Les Rabassieres 75 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

    Med color. Not much going on here. Hints of black pepper. Tastes like rhone. not really that identifiable.

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  • 2005 Maison Bouachon Gigondas Duc de Montfort 70 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

    Really low level producer. This and the cote du rhone are good serviceable "red wines" to order in a bistro. Not offensive. Too much at $15. Can't even pick out varietal character. "if the best you can say is "not offensive"... maybe at $8, but not at $15.

    ST(jr)90

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  • 2005 Baxter Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard 80 Points

    USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

    Has that pinot funk. New world, though - no real earth on the nose. Good fruit. Structure says new world. Good acid, higher alcohol. 'Alcohol under control by the acid and fruit' (not so much for me). Good, but not my style. maybe 85 for someone who likes new world pinot. I don't really understand this yet.

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  • 2003 Baxter Cabernet Sauvignon Fedele Vineyard 87 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

    Dark color. Banana, good extraction, good acid, med+ to strong tannins. CA cab has by far the biggest tannins of any new world wine. It's good!

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  • 2003 Renard Syrah Unti Vineyard 84 Points

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley

    Julius exclaimed: "Look! A CA shiraz under 14% alcohol!" "They must have picked it in August." joked Joe.

    Dark color. Hints of tar and cloves, a fair bit of bacon. Savory in the mouth. Good.

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Flight 8 (13 Notes)

Flight 9 - Barberas and Nebbiolos (9 Notes)

These wreaked havoc on my palate and cheeks with their strong tannins. The aromas were surprisingly soft and reticent, perhaps due to lack of decanting. It was a little frustrating trying to pick out aromas, and nothing really stunned me on the palate.

  • 2004 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 85 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Med-light color.A little cinnamon on the nose, sour cherry. Med+ acid, strong tannins, a little tight on the nose.

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  • 2004 Ca' Viola Langhe Bric du Luv 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    Dark in the glass. 95% Barbera, 5% Nebbiolo.
    Nose: slightly musty dark fruit, pruney, savory, dark walnuts.
    Palate: Some toast (barrique age?) great acidity, long finish, monster tannins. Really good.

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  • 2007 Damilano Barbera d'Alba 85 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba

    Weird nose - sulfur? Tomato paste. Fresh in the mouth, strong acid. Nice and fresh in the mouth. Nice.

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  • 2006 Damilano Nebbiolo d'Alba 75 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Nebbiolo d'Alba

    Very little on the nose. A little vanilla on the palate - mostly tannins and acid. Maybe needed decanting?

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  • 2004 Damilano Barolo Liste

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Smelled oxidized. Savory in the mouth. Tight, a bit weak on the midpalate, disappears on the finish.
    I commented that it seemed light.
    "people say barolo's are big wines, because of the high alcohol, but they're not huge fruit-forward bombs. The best examples are pretty, floral, feminine.

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  • 2004 Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 80 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    med-garnet
    tight on the nose. savory in the mouth, tomato. Strong tannins. Subtle earthy tan-like flavor that I'm finding in a lot of the nebbs. Maybe needs decanting.

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  • 2004 Damilano Barolo Cannubi

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Vineyard: cannubi - has a dozen producers. Like To Kalon in CA.
    'all the classic elements of nebbiolo are there'
    smells oxidized. A little earthiness/tan soil.

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  • 1999 Damilano Barolo Riserva 88 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    'tar is roaring'
    Not huge or jammy, but really nice flavors. Some tar. Huge back end of tannins. A little short on the fruit finish, but I like it a lot. 88-89 I said.

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  • 2005 Il Cascinone Barbera d'Asti Superiore Rive 82 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d'Asti Superiore

    I like the nose - mushroomy, some toasty oak. Palate: not so good: tomato-ey, a little juicy on the palate - med acid, med- tannins, fruit is kind of evaporating on me.

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Flight 10 - Food Pairing (3 Notes)

Closing

After 3 hours at Vias, Joe, Julius, and I took a cab to the Martin Scott tasting, on the upper east side near central park. Notes to follow...

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