France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Shy at first on the nose, but on the palate this was deep and biscuity, and the minerals and citrus soon came through to balance the butter. A lovely white burgundy, but perhaps not as big and distinctive as a Montrachet ought to be.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
This was gamey, meaty and quite expressive when I first opened it, but three hours later it had tightened up, not giving much on the nose, just a few whiffs of stalks and metal, elegant and plush on the palate, understated as Lambrays usually is, but not saying much today
1999 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année
France, Champagne
Forward, sweet, rich and, for a Bollinger, very friendly
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1993 Domaine Jacques Prieur Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Shy at first on the nose, but on the palate this was deep and biscuity, and the minerals and citrus soon came through to balance the butter. A lovely white burgundy, but perhaps not as big and distinctive as a Montrachet ought to be.
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1993 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
This was gamey, meaty and quite expressive when I first opened it, but three hours later it had tightened up, not giving much on the nose, just a few whiffs of stalks and metal, elegant and plush on the palate, understated as Lambrays usually is, but not saying much today
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2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very pretty, cherry and chalk fruit, sweet, tingling, so cute
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2001 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Substantial, a lot of sweet fruit, oaky, glossy, very attractive
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1990 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Cloudy, but nevertheless damp, sappy, very fresh and enticing
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1988 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Gamey nose, but a lot of sweet fruit on the palate, not big, but likeable
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1991 Domaine Ponsot Latricières-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Direct and sappy, lovely sweet fruit, nuance after nuance, really gorgeous
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1988 Domaine Leroy Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Dark and bright, dusty nose, but plenty of sweet fruit, and it managed to be both dense and light at the same time.
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1986 Domaine des Chezeaux Griotte-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Sweat and sap on the nose, fresh and undergrowthy on the palate, some grip, alive and attractive - belies the view that Ponsot's 1986s were a disaster
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1971 The Wine Society Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Old and faded, not much flavour now, but gentle and poised
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1969 Domaine Jean Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
This too was faded, but it had a nice rich texture, with some ripe sweet fruit on the mid-palate
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1961 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Medicinal, rasping, lean, but really vibrant, weightless, layers of flavour - super
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1978 Domaine Clair-Daü Bonnes Mares
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
[Vintage missing, but taken to be 1978] Not distinctive, but lovely mature pinot, with plenty of bite
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1978 Bouchard Père et Fils La Romanée
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Romanée Grand Cru
Quite deep coloured still, full, alive, doesn't at all taste 30 years old, quite simple really, but lovely
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1978 Gros Frère et Sœur Clos Vougeot Musigni
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Dark, malty, exotic, floats on the palate, lovely silky texture
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1988 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Slightly corked, which was a shame as this was otherwise fragrant, open, with some bite
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1985 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Mâcon Clessé Cuvée Levroutée
France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon Clessé
Soft, some biscuity grip, gentle texture, an oddball demisec chardonnay, but rather attractive
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1991 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Quintessence de Grains Noble Cuvée D'Or
France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
Really sparkled, lifted, marmaladey SGN, very exciting
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