Verticals of BC wines - Burrowing Owl Cab Sauv, Black Hills Nota Bene, Osoyoos Larsose Grand Vin

A bit of cleaning out the cellar event but also a chance to try some of these iconic BC wines to see how they're aging and if the winemaking style has changed over the years. All wines were decanted at noon and poured back into the clean bottle. Tasting started at 6 pm with the Burrowing Owl followed by the Nota Bene (7:30 pm) and finishing with the Osoyoos Larose (9 p.m.).

BOV Cab Sauv vintages 1998, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

• 2006 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 84 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Plastic cork. Clear ruby core of moderate intensity. Clean nose of (mostly) sweet toasted oak with some cherry notes. Dry on the palate with moderate acidity, alcohol, body and mod+ chewy tannins. Lots of cherry and raw oak flavours - sawdust or oak staves?. Simple and boring - not a lot of room for development. Short finish of mostly oak and vanilla.

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• 2005 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 86 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Plastic cork. Clear pale cherry core of moderate intensity to the edge with a thin watery rim - youthful. Clean nose of cranberry and herbal (was there Cab Franc added?) aromas of moderate intensity. Dry with sweet edged blackberry and oak flavours. Moderate tannin/acid/body/alcohol - good balance. Moderate length finish. Not worth the money - made for immediate consumption

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• 2004 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 84 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear pale cherry core of moderate intensity with a thin watery rim - youthful. Very quiet nose of chokecherry and oak of moderate- intensity. Very grippy tannins (moderate+) with mod+ acid and alcohol with moderate body. Cranberry and red apple flavours of moderate intensity. Hot on the nose and palate with tart acidity. Moderate length finish. Plastic cork - made for immediate consumption. Not worth the money.

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• 2003 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 82 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Slightly muddy cherry core. Odd vegetal nose with fish fertilizer showing. Dry on the palate with over ripe fruit flavours. Moderate acid, body, tannin and mod+ alcohol. Moderate length finish with sweet notes. Not great... Plastic cork.

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• 2002 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear pale cherry core of moderate intensity to the slightly browning edge - showing some development. Deep rich and dense nose of dark cherry and black olive along with some herbal notes of moderate intensity. Dry with sweet cherry fruit and vanilla/oaky flavours - mouthfilling and palate coating. Development is starting to show. Mod+ (bright) acidity and tannin (ripe) with moderate body and alcohol - well balanced and aging well. Moderate length finish with good tannic structure and the flavours carried by the acidity. This is a very well made wine just starting to develop tertiary notes. Natural cork.

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• 2001 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear raspberry core of moderate intensity with a slightly browning edge. Clean nose of bing cherry and vanilla with toasty oak notes of moderate+ intensity. Dry with black cherry, vanilla and black current flavours with a hint of development showing. Chewy tannins (mod+) with moderate acid/body/alcohol. Development is showing but this is still just a baby. Moderate length finish. Very well balanced and very well made. Natural cork

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• 2000 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear raspberry core of moderate intensity to the slightly browning edge - some development showing. Big California style nose of black current, vanilla, toast along with some really pleasant cedar notes - development showing. Dry with blackcurrent and toasty oak flavours - the Cali Cab comparison continues - moderate body with mod+ alcohol, acid and tannin. The tannins are nicely ripe and supple though - this is a a really nice place right now but will still develop some more. Elegant and interesting - moderate length finish with the cedar flavours continuing. Very well made - will continue on for another 5 years or so. Natural cork.

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• 1998 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear very light almost translucent raspberry core with browning edge and thin watery rim - development showing. Clean nose with a bit of sauerkraut on the nose initially followed by plum, cherry and cedar aromas with noticable alcohol. Dry on the palate with good fruit (plum and cherry) and vanilla along with toasty oak. Well balanced with moderate tannin/acid/body/alcohol. Moderate finish with an excellent carry over of fruit. Just starting to develop tertiary aromas and flavours. Still very youthful. Very well made. Natural cork.

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Vintages 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

• 2006 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 88 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear pale raspberry core of moderate intensity out to a thin watery rim - youthful. Moderate intensity nose with spice, bing cherry and herbal aromas. Dry on the palate with mineral, cranberry and sage flavours. Relatively soft on the palate with moderate acid/alcohol/body and ripe and grippy tannins. Medium+ length finish. Very good. Years of development to go - can drink now with 3+ hours of decanting but will benefit from another 5 or so years of cellaring.

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• 2005 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 88 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear pale cherry core of moderate intensity to the edge with a thin watery rim - youthful. Highly alcoholic on the nose that does dissipate later - then comes clove, crushed rock, black olive and black cherry aromas of moderate intensity. Dry but soft on the palate with mineral, herbal and olive flavours of moderate intensity. Mod+ drying but not aggressive tannins, moderate acidity and body with elevated alcohol. The medium length finish is tannic with sweet vanilla and toasty oak flavours. This wine is very youthful and not yet developed but the quality is there for future improvement. 3-5 years should do it and it may become outstanding.

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• 2004 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 89 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear cherry core of moderate intensity to the light cherry edge with a thin watery rim - youthful. Clean nose with lots of initial alcohol that blew off followed by clove, tobacco, vanilla, toasty oak and sage aromas. Dry and soft on the palate with vanilla, toasty oak, leather and dark fruit of moderate intensity. Moderate acid and body with mod+ alcohol and tannin. The finish is moderate+ with the dark fruit and leather continuing on. Very well made - might call this one a teenager - it's a bit angular right now...

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• 2003 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 92 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark cherry core out to a light cherry edge and thin watery rim. Clean and mod+ nose of clove/spice/nutmeg/oak/vanilla and just a touch of alcohol. Dry on the palate with well balanced acidity/tannin/alcohol - all moderate with moderate body. Some developed flavours (even though it doesn't show in it's colour) with earthy and leathery notes - minerality and dark fruit with some deep forest floor and cedar notes. Moderate finish and quite delicious. Drinking really well right now (with the 7 hour decant time). Will develop more - it's possibly a WOW wine.

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• 2002 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 91 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear pale cherry core of moderate intensity to the edge with a thin watery rim - youthful. Clean herbal/spicy nose with clove and nutmeg predominating - moderate intensity. Dry (but soft) on the palate with minerals and cranberry flavours. Moderate+ acidity and tannins with moderate body and alcohol. There's a cranberry bitterness and astringency on the moderate+ finish with the minerality showing well. This is a bit lean but with food it shone. Very well made with potential. Elegantly styled - more time needed - this will develop into tea and cedar style as it ages.

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• 2001 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 92 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear cranberry core of moderate intensity to a slightly oranging edge - some development showing. Moderate+ and very expressive nose (very Bordeaux like) of cedar and spice with lifted forest floor notes along with tea and leather. Dry but soft on the palate with moderate and well balanced alcohol/acid/tannin and body. Moderately intense flavours of raisinated fruit along with minerals, cedar and spice on the palate - almost like a cross between Bordeaux and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Moderately long finish. Wish I had more - would give them 3+ years to develop further. Outstanding!

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• 2000 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene Flawed

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Corked!

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• 1999 Black Hills Estate Nota Bene 91 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear very light almost translucent raspberry core of moderate- intensity out to an oranging edge - development noted. Clean nose with just a touch of brett that adds to the complexity - moderately intense nose of cedar, spice, mineral, tea and leather. Brilliant nose! Dry with very good structure on the palate - moderate and slightly drying tannins with good spice, warming alcohol (moderate), leather, dried cherry and tea flavours. Moderate acicity and moderate body. Moderate length finish but this wine still has some time to go. Again, wish I had more - developing well. Give it another 2-4 years.

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Vintages 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006

• 2006 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 89 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear mulberry core of moderate intensity to a moderate garnet edge and thin watery rim - youthful. Clean but very tight nose (mod-) - some smoke, leather and dense earth/dark fruit with a bit of alcohol. Relatively soft (after 9 hours decant) on the palate giving black cherry and raspberry fruit of moderate intensity. Moderate+ tannins with moderate alcohol that is currently sticking out a bit and moderate body and acidity. Ripe but leathery tannins on the moderate length finish. Quality is there but really needs 10+ years in the cellar.

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• 2005 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 88 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark garnet core of moderate intensity out to a thin ruby edge and thin watery rim - youthful. Clean but closed nose giving up little in the way of fruit or really anything. With a lot of work the fruit is there hiding under the leather and smoke. Dry on the palate with soft fruit on the initial attack with leather and tea immediately thereafter, closing down the flavours - mod- intensity. Moderate+ tannin and acid with moderate body and alcohol. Very dense on the palate but giving up little. The finish is moderate and a bit drying. Tight even after 9 hours decanting. Still, I would say this is well balanced and will develop well. Give it at least 8 years.

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• 2004 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 89 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark cherry core of moderate intensity extending out to a thin watery rim - youthful. Clean nose of nutmeg (and other spices) with tobacco and a bit of alcohol - moderately intense nose. Dry on the palate with soft raspberry fruit on the entry followed by black olive and tobacco and leather. Ripe but mod+ tannins and acidity with moderate body and alcohol. Moderate length finish that is carried by the tannins and acids. Slightly astringent finish. Needs time - 5+ years but the quality is there.

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• 2003 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 91 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark cherry core of moderate intensity extending out to a thin watery rim - youthful. Clean but very tight nose with earthy and tobacco notes along with some initial alcohol - moderate intensity. Dry with moderate but not overbearing tannins along with moderate body and alcohol and mod+ acidity. Dense core of fruit that's just beginning to emerge from beneath the tobacco and olive overburden. Very young. Moderate length finish carried by the tannins and acids with the tobacco being the main flavour note. Needs 8 years minimum to show it's best.

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• 2002 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 89 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark cherry core of moderate intensity extending out to a thin watery rim - youthful. Moderately intense nose (becoming a bouquet) of black olive, herb (sage), cedar, tobacco and crushed rock. Dry on the palate with moderate+ acidity/tannin with moderate body/alcohol. Dense core of dark red and black fruit (cherry/raspberry/plum) with cedar and tobacco. Well balanced but with firm leathery tannins that continue on into the moderate to long drying finish. Needs time - will become elegant in time - 5+ more years.

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• 2001 Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 90 Points

  Canada, British Columbia, Okanagan Valley, Okanagan Valley VQA

  Clear dark cranberry core out to a thin red edge and thin watery rim - youthful. Clean moderate- nose of cranberry, cedar, leafy tobacco and mineral. Dry with moderate+ tannins that build on the palate but are not overbearing - moderate body/alcohol/acid. Modest fruit flavours with tobacco, leather and mineral flavours. Moderate length finish - this wine is barely starting to evolve - 8 more years. The youth of the vines is showing but the quality of the winemaking shows too.

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Very disappointed in the Burrowing Owl showing - noted the progression of natural to synthetic cork because as soon as the cork changed so too did the winemaking style. It went from ageworthy and interesting wines (still developing) 1998- 2002 to boring expensive candied grape juice 2003 onward. I would say that BOV Cabernet has definitely lost its way and is currently not worth the money.

The Black Hills Nota Bene were all well balanced showing interesting minerality and a 'sense of place'. I wonder what will happen to the wine now that it has been sold to a consortium...

Osoyoos Larose was the most discussed vertical - lots of concern there was not enough fruit to support the tannin and acidity. Only time will tell but they were starting to show more fruit and concentration at about midnight...