2007 Rhones $20 to $40

One of my groups got together to sample the 2007 vintage of Rhones. The pricing was meant to be a guideline and most wines were close or slightly over. in general, the tasting was very good, but left many of wanting. It did not live up to the hype for us. My views before the tasting, and now reinforced is that it is a good vintage, but just another good one in a string from 1998 onward (except of course 2002). In fact, it was a northern Rhone wine that was the WOTN. Add that to the rampant price increases following the hype and I am a buyer of the 04 thru 06 sales, much more than any of these wines. That said, I do have a bunch of 07's already and I am glad to have them. At this price range, i will wait for the 09's to be released and then buy the 07's on closeout.

All wines were consumed blind over 2.5 hours. Breads and cheeses were served.

Our host Chris, started us off with a white:

• 2006 Michael-David Vineyards Viognier Incognito 87 Points

  USA, California, Central Valley, Lodi

  This is a California Viognier blend. Golden color. Soft and viscous. Not a ton of fruit (maybe there was more a year ago?), but it has a nice complexity with some grapefruit. A bit bitter on the finish but nice minerality. This group zeroed in on California Viognier pretty quickly for all the good and not so good that connotes. All in all, for under $20, I liked it.

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The reds:

• 2007 Domaine Boisson Cairanne 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Cairanne

  Pretty ruby purple color, mostly clear and bright. A bit monolithic but nice. Black olives and plums. Once it opens there is a plum brandy element to it. Others called it a bourbon barrel note, perhaps a bit better descriptor. It needs a year or so I think, and then good for 5.

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• 2007 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Very tight. Sweet, ripe raspberries and black raspberries. Afrter an hour or two, it opened to show some complexity. Still, it seems ssurprisingly one dimensional. Enjoyable but not outstanding. The group seemed split on this one though.

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• 2007 Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage

  This producer keeps going up in my book. In fact, this was mine and the groups WOTN. Yes, it is from the Northern Rhone who had a perfectly respectable vintage but not the hype. Once it opened there was a complexity with depth that was very interesting. Drinking very well with an hour of air. Spice, pepper and black raspberry notes. Firm but lush texture. Very good.

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• 2007 Montirius Vacqueyras Garrigues 86 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras

  I found this disappointing as I normally like the basic bottlings from this producer. This was a bit thin, lacking much fruit (some black raspberry) with a bitter, hot finish. It improved a bit with air, but never seemed to add any weight. Certainly drinkable and if it was $8, I wouldn't mind. It is in a much higher bracket.

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• 2007 Jean-Michel Gerin St. Joseph Flawed

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

  A new producer for me. Unfortunately, this was undrinkable. A ton of Brett on the nose, band-aids meet sewage. I think there was some secondary fermentation going on in the bottle. A bit of spritz, with lactic sour cherry notes. There was also a vegetal note to the wine. I would be curious what a good bottle tasted like, but I am not a buyer with my own money.

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• 2007 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  I was pleased to see I really liked this wine (much more than the group though) as I own some and its always been a source for value in CdP. Nice black raspberry and cherry fruit on the nose. Some depth. velvety texture. Lots of thick tannins but plenty of structure and fruit that I think five years does this well. I thought the most complex wint on the table. Plenty of upside.

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• 2007 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Another of my favorites that should really improve over five years. Complex nose of black raspberries and spic. Also some cherries. Juicy texture with softer tannins. Long finish. Still needs plenty of time but I think three years might do it for this one and be good for another seven.

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• 2007 Domaine de la Mordorée Lirac Cuvée de la Reine des Bois 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Lirac

  The group liked this a bit better than I. I found it very tight and in desperate need of a cellar or air. Only later in the evening did it start top open up. Spice, funk and cherries on the palate. Thick and juicy with black raspberries and pepper on the palate. Plenty of tannins. I am sure it gets better, so worth having a few bottles in the cellar.

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• 2007 Domaine La Bouïssiere Gigondas 88 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  A bit of a disappointing showing from this excellent producer. Deep purple color. Nice dark cherry nose but very tight. On the palate, this was overtly acidic (it tickled my tongue) and lacking in body compared to most wines. I think this shows better with food, alone on the dinner table. Still young, it should improve.

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• 2007 Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

  The group liked this more than I, but I liked it. I was surprised how approachable it was. Lots of ripe, sweet fruit. Black raspberries with an earthy floor. Clean and no funk. Plenty of upside, but this does seem more robust at this stage than earlier vintages. Of course, this brought out the "old timers" discussion on what this used to sell for. In fact, even a few years ago you could find it for under $20.

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