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En-Primeur campaign for the 2021 vintage
Bordeaux
Tasted April 25, 2022 - April 29, 2022 by chatters with 1,362 views
Introduction
Daniel very, very, very kindly agreed to take me to the En primeur campaign for the 2021 vintage. I missed the first day of tasting (including the large negotiant tasting) because of the KLM wildcat strike which stranded me in Amsterdam for 36 hours & left me with no luggage, but I was able to join for the rest of the week as a guest of Daniel and the negociant Ballande & Meneret.
Just a few quick general notes about how it worked this year: Most of the large chateau may have a selection of wineries that belong in their portfolio…because of this some (though not all) may choose to show some (e.g., Lafite Rothschild), or all (e.g., Leoville Poyferre), of these wines while they show their 2nd and grand wine of the ‘master’ chateau. Other chateau may have more than two wines (e.g., Latour with les forts but also Pauillac the third wine). Some chateau will only choose to show their wines that they offer on the Bourse (e.g., Pontet Canet) and others may choose to show wines that they do not offer (e.g., Phelan Segur showed their second wine the Frank Segur though this is not available as part of the En Primeur offer). Finally, because of Covid, some of the Chateau showed the vintages that they had not been able to show because of the various lockdowns
The brackets I’ve put together are based on the village/area that we visited on the day in question so, for example, if the winery is in Margaux and chooses to show wines that it owns but that are outside this region, they will appear in those days tasting (e.g., Rauzan Segla owns a couple of right bank chateau and I’ve included these in the Margaux day). Where this has occurred, and it isn’t obvious, I’ve called this out in the tasting note (as there are not enough brackets to allow me to divide by specific chateau and still contain this within a broader single tasting story for the entire EP campaign.
Flight 1 - Margaux (21 notes)
First day of my EP campaign and we’re off to Margaux. I suppose I’d say that Margaux is my least favourite of the four (or five if you include the lazily lumped together Pessac Leognan/Graves) appellations but, in classic Walt Whitman style, it is the village that I have the most producers’ wines in my cellar.
Call outs for the day (note – only 2021s) were Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, the Margaux and the Berliquet (though it’s not from Margaux). The Kirwan and the Alto (of the whites I tasted today) deserve a mention as well.
Red
2021 Château Kirwan
Blackcurrant over plum, sweet oak spice, very slight tomato leaf and rocky minerality. Acidity is moving towards medium plus intensity, fleshy, a little dilute in fact with black hued fruits, touch of savoury almost yeast extract, tannins are persistent, talc textured, lightweight. Balanced. Okay. A nice start to the first day of EP
Red
2021 Le Haut-Médoc de Giscours
Wild blackcurrant and red currant, herbaceous notes, a little plummy underpin, sweet spice, a touch of meatiness and, with time, a little jubey prettiness. Medium plus intensity acidity, fruit reversed so plums over blackcurrant, plenty of drying, hard and slightly green tannins, and a little white pepper spice on the finish. Meh.
Red
2021 La Sirène de Giscours
Smells dense, savoury, meaty, black hued fruit; currant and red currant, sweet spice and a little oaky underpin. Medium plus intensity acidity, black and red fruits with a slight herbaceous background. Tannins are hard and it finishes a little hard and astringent. Meh
Red
2021 Château Giscours
Initially medium minus intensity aromas but opens to show quite pretty black and red fruits backed by meaty savoury notes and sweet oak spice. Medium plus intensity acidity is juicy, savoury woody dark hued fruits (with a smear of red fruit compote beneath this) have a pretty fruit core but there is, like the Sirene, a hard bitter and moderately astringent note on the finish. Tannins are tight, chewy, drying and there is also a smidge of alcohol warmth here. Hmm
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Red
2021 Château Brane-Cantenac Le Baron de Brane
Meaty savoury, plums over blackcurrant, slightly toasty notes, and sweet spice. medium plus intensity acidity is slightly sharp, plums over blackcurrant again, tannins are hard and have a slightly green quality, slight alcohol warmth on the finish which shows a little bitterness. The palate is greener than the nose. Meh.
Red
2021 Château Brane-Cantenac
Plenty of polished oak up front, wild blackcurrant compote, slight pyrazine. Medium plus intensity acidity lends juiciness, fleshy, fresh crunchy blackcurrant, sweet and savoury spice, drying grainy tannins show the oak and persist long. Pretty good for a classic Bordeaux as long as those oaky tannins integrate with rather than dominate the fruit.
Red
2011 Château Brane-Cantenac
Blackcurrant, a little sweaty note, slight tomato leaf, raspberry, sweet spice, a sense of freshness with a meaty underpin. Juicy, fresh, slightly sour though fresh, concentrated red over blackcurrant, a little cocoa powder, tannins are drying, woody, a little savoury spice, finishes quite dry. Nice.
Red
2001 Château Brane-Cantenac
Leather, beef extract, brambles, blackcurrant, sweet spice. Juicy, fleshy, leather, tannins are tight, still drying and persistent, savoury, brambly fruit. Long, slightly warm. Pleasing.
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Red
2021 Château Cantenac Brown BriO
Plum, sweetly fruited, pretty with a slight savoury underpin. Quite perfumed as well but with some leafiness. Sourly juicy, the green note is more pronounced on the palate, tannins are hard, chalky and grainy, a little alcohol warmth intrudes on the finish. Not very nice
Red
2021 Château Cantenac Brown
Blackcurrant smells hard and slightly green, unripe. Savoury. More ‘classic claret’ nose for me. Juicy, fleshy, brambles and blackcurrant, a little biscuit and cream, tannins are tight, drying, coarse flour textured but not overpowering the fruit, all travel long. Very good indeed though fairly simple at this stage.
White
2021 AltO de Cantenac Brown Blanc
Initially a touch of fresh gooseberry, slight cream, butter, a little tropical fruit note, quite lozenge. Medium plus intensity acidity, gooseberry over sweetly ripe tropical fruit especially pineapple. Wetly enjoyable, simple, slight bitterness on the finish.
Red
2021 Château Prieuré-Lichine
Ribena with a little rhubarb over polished oak, sweet spice. It’s a little reticent on the nose. In the mouth it’s juicy and savoury, blackcurrant fruit is quite concentrated; obviously bled/saignee’d. Drying, chewy, savoury tannins close down the palate, fruit persists though with a little cream and oaky notes on the very long finish. Proves quite thick. Possibly a little too extracted/worked?
Red
2021 Alter Ego
Red plum, red berry and currant, cream, woody okay notes are polished. Medium plus intensity acidity, woody, chalky tannins, again quite red fruit on the palate, it’s a bit woody and chewy at the moment.
Red
2021 Château Palmer
Sweet plums over blackcurrant, pretty and quite fruit driven with wrapped around a core of expensive good quality oak. Medium plus intensity acidity, quite savoury black fruit, plentiful oaky tannins, quite cabernet driven. Hmm. I’m not sure if the tannins are a little too much for the fruit.
Red
2021 Château Malescot St. Exupéry
Blackcurrant tends to cassis, cream, a little baked herb note with an underpin of polished oak, sweet spice, violets. In the mouth it’s juicy tending to medium plus intensity acidity, fruit is initially sweet then rapidly gets more savoury, tannins are floury textured, drying but equally made up of grape and oak notes. There is a little black coffee note with time. It does fade quite quickly and, rather oddly, begins to show a smidge of cork taint…
Red
2021 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux
Medium plus intensity aromas of violet, plum before oak starts kicking my nose off my face. With agitation there is a certain wild ferment funkiness (though I’m sure this is just my bruised nose playing tricks) and some blackcurrant. Juicy acidity, savoury, chewy, chalky, oaky tannins rather dominate (unsurprisingly) and there is a touch of alcohol warmth on the finish. Nope.
Red
2021 Château Margaux
Meaty, savoury, slight funky over black hued fruits; berries and currants, a little fruit tea, polished oak but contained by the fruit (on the nose at least). Medium plus intensity acidity, black fruits again but showing brambles, blackcurrant, there is a sense of wetness, and the oak lends a certain plushness but that is balanced by the fruit. Well managed tannins are persistent, woody but more about support. Wine of the day so far. A class apart.
White
2021 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux
Gooseberry, passion fruit, lees work, slight oak initially but, with time in the glass, this woodiness grows, Medium plus intensity acidity and an instant fruit hit, the passion fruit is washed aside by the slightly unripe gooseberry flood. Oak lends a certain biting cats rasp to the mid palate, battonage a little fatness. Long with a little minerality on the finish. There’s lots going on but it’s a bit disjointed. Not for me.
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Red
2021 Château Berliquet
Plush plums, red berry and currant underpin, polished oak is present but more in the background. Juicy, softly engaging, fresh, fleshy, tannins are finely tooled and chalky textured but, like the oak on the nose, very much in a supporting role. Alcohol is present though not intrusive on the finish where the oak vies for a little more attention. Pleasant, balanced, good.
Red
2021 Château Canon
Medium minus intensity aromas that show a little smokiness (though this could be the fact that they seem to be burning wood somewhere nearby. Savoury, fruit quite muted; a little plum and red berry shows with time (and agitation). Medium plus intensity acidity, floury textured tannins are drying, persistent, woody, chewy to the point of toughness, fruit plays second fiddle to this oaky solo, a little creamy note on the finish. Meh.
Red
2021 Château Rauzan-Ségla
A little struck match, graphite, fresh ripe (though not overripe) wild blackcurrant, muted polished oak in support on the nose. Medium plus intensity acidity, savoury, medium plus intensity chalky tannins show grape and wood, chewy, tight and dominant on the palate. The fruit is present beneath this with time and agitation the fruit grows on the palate. The merlot offers more breadth and structure than flavour for me. A little out of balance. Hmm
Flight 2 - lunch at Prieure Lichine (5 notes)
Lunch at Prieure Lichine was hosted by Lisa Latrille and featured Nadine’s famous souffle. This is my second lunch at this winery and it’s pretty and lovely. It helps that I’m quite a fan of the wines. Notes are a little short as I took them directly after lunch, in the car, on the bumpy road Chateau Palmer.
Food matches were:
The white with Nadine’s Souffle
The two 2015’s with T-bone grilled on vine shoots with seasonal vegetables (tiny button mushrooms, little roasted potatoes, and petit pois a la francais)
The 2010 (and the 1989) with a selection of aged cheeses
White
2019 Château Prieuré-Lichine Le Blanc du Chateau Prieuré-Lichine
Gooseberry, cats piss, battonage notes of leesy creamy happiness. Slight oak, sweet spice with textured grip. Perhaps lacking a little freshness? Nice enough though.
Red
2015 Château Prieuré-Lichine Confidences de Prieuré-Lichine
Plums, talc textured tannins, broad on the mid palate. Simple.
Red
2015 Château Prieuré-Lichine
Like the 21 from a concentration perspective but with another 6 years under the belt. Nice.
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Red
2010 Château Prieuré-Lichine
Quite forward for the vintage, leather, meaty, savoury black fruit, talc textured tannins. It’s rather lovely but I’d have guessed 05 or 00 if served blind.
Red
1989 Château Prieuré-Lichine
Leather, earth, farmyard, blackcurrant, tight chalky tannins put me in mind of 95 but the fruit says older. I guessed 89 as there wasn’t enough fruit sweetness for 90 but Daniel beat me too it.
Flight 3 - dinner at Rauzan Segla (4 notes)
First night supper was at Rauzan Segla. A few of the Ballande staff joined us.
Food wise the wines were matched as follows:
2011 with Tartare de veau, caviar d’Aquitaine, jus de cresson
1989 with Feuillete d’agneau confit, petit pois a la francaise
2005 with Plateau de fromages affines
By itself Ananas caramelises, crème vanilla et sorbet passion
After dinner I had a cheeky calvados (which I regretted almost instantly) and we finished up at about 1030 which meant I was back at my digs about 15 minutes before midnight – a long first day having started at 630 that morning.
Red
2011 Château Rauzan-Ségla
Served blind
Fresh, slight jubey blackcurrant, smoky notes. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, equally fresh, fleshy on the palate, talc textured tannins, rather pleasant.
The jubey note on the nose put me in mind of 2012 so that was my guess
Fresh, slight jubey blackcurrant, smoky notes. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, equally fresh, fleshy on the palate, talc textured tannins, rather pleasant.
The jubey note on the nose put me in mind of 2012 so that was my guess
Red
1989 Château Rausan-Ségla
Served blind & from magnum
Leather, farmyard especially horse shit, Autumn leaves, brambles. Juicy, fleshy on the palate, brambly here as well, tannins still present and drying, peppery spice on the finish. Alcohol warmth says ripe vintage. Rather lovely but not 1990 ripe fruit so I said 1989
Leather, farmyard especially horse shit, Autumn leaves, brambles. Juicy, fleshy on the palate, brambly here as well, tannins still present and drying, peppery spice on the finish. Alcohol warmth says ripe vintage. Rather lovely but not 1990 ripe fruit so I said 1989
Red
2005 Château Rauzan-Ségla
Served blind
A little reticent, shows black head fruit – plums, blackcurrant, a little leafy note, and some leather tertiariness. Freshly juicy, black hued fruits, talc textured tannins, plums, slight alcohol warmth and a sense of thickness. Okay.
I got stuck between 2005 and 2000 and plumped for the latter because of that leathery note.
A little reticent, shows black head fruit – plums, blackcurrant, a little leafy note, and some leather tertiariness. Freshly juicy, black hued fruits, talc textured tannins, plums, slight alcohol warmth and a sense of thickness. Okay.
I got stuck between 2005 and 2000 and plumped for the latter because of that leathery note.
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Red
1989 Château Rausan-Ségla
From magnum.
Had a taste at the second magnum for compare and contrast purposes (& why not!) Leather, less obvious farmyard notes here than the other magnum though, perhaps, a little more fruit, and some fruit tea notes, are helping to mask this. And the palate is very much a reflection of the additional fruit but with exactly the same level tannins – though there is more fruit I wouldn’t say its characteristics have changed – still brambly but just more present. Very interesting.
Had a taste at the second magnum for compare and contrast purposes (& why not!) Leather, less obvious farmyard notes here than the other magnum though, perhaps, a little more fruit, and some fruit tea notes, are helping to mask this. And the palate is very much a reflection of the additional fruit but with exactly the same level tannins – though there is more fruit I wouldn’t say its characteristics have changed – still brambly but just more present. Very interesting.
Flight 4 - St Julien & Pauillac (34 notes)
Day two and St Julien & Pauillac are our focus for the day. Oh, a little note on the structure of the days…each morning I get up, pop to the local Boulangerie in Le Bouscat, grab some fresh OJ and a seedy baguette (as in full of seeds, not dodgy) and something sweet, pop back home and consume these whilst pottering around before meeting the other guests around the corner at 8am to set off to the wineries.
It was interesting that a few of the wineries today took the opportunity to show their previous vintages next to the 2021. One of the chaps from the negotiants said it was perhaps a little foolhardy, but I think it showed a certain awareness on behalf of the chateau to show that vintage variation is very much alive and kicking in Bordeaux.
Initially I thought it was going to be harder to find call outs today but the Beychevelle, the reds from Pichon Baron (Pibran, Griffins, Pichon Baron) were all, in their own way, very good. I also liked the Le Crock, Connetable Talbot and Talbot. Additionally, I’d give a nod to the Beychevelle, Branaire Ducru, Langoa Barton & Leoville Barton (the latter of which historic tasting teaches me will end up being pretty special)
Red
2021 Château Gruaud Larose Sarget de Gruaud Larose
Plums, blackcurrant, oak spice, smells polished, round and fruit forward. Plush, plummy up front with a little almost salted liquorice underpin, tannins are drying, chalky, slightly woody and, despite claims of 12.76%, alcoholically warm on the finish.
Red
2021 Château Gruaud Larose
Dusty glass ruins the wine on the nose. In the mouth it’s savoury with hard, bitter tannins. Meh for me based on this glass so grabbed a fresh one.
From the fresh glass - Polished oak lends sweet spice and woody notes, the fruit is quite subtle and dark hued, a little plain chocolate as well. Medium plus intensity acidity – the black hued fruit is quite subdued on the palate as well; tannins are persistent and softly textured but there is a little hard green note here as well. Hmm
From the fresh glass - Polished oak lends sweet spice and woody notes, the fruit is quite subtle and dark hued, a little plain chocolate as well. Medium plus intensity acidity – the black hued fruit is quite subdued on the palate as well; tannins are persistent and softly textured but there is a little hard green note here as well. Hmm
Red
2020 Château Beaumont
Shown at Beychevelle
Ripe, plush, plums and black currant, sweet spice, very slightly meaty underpin. With agitation a little jubey note as well as slight toast. Oof, beast on the palate, plentiful floury textured, raspy tannins, slight alcohol warmth, black hued fruits. Nice in a big way
Ripe, plush, plums and black currant, sweet spice, very slightly meaty underpin. With agitation a little jubey note as well as slight toast. Oof, beast on the palate, plentiful floury textured, raspy tannins, slight alcohol warmth, black hued fruits. Nice in a big way
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Red
2021 Château Beaumont
Shown at Beychevelle
Red and black fruits, a sense of slight plushness, a herbaceous underpin. Savoury, juicy with medium plus intensity acidity which lends freshness the 2020 lacked, a little chalky minerality, tannins slightly more drying, finishes a little hard.
Red and black fruits, a sense of slight plushness, a herbaceous underpin. Savoury, juicy with medium plus intensity acidity which lends freshness the 2020 lacked, a little chalky minerality, tannins slightly more drying, finishes a little hard.
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Red
2020 Château Beychevelle
Ripe, concentrated black fruit, currants and plums, a little baked in fact with cream, polished oak, sweet spice. Juicy but also dense on the palate, positively thick in fact, silky tannins are subsumed by that powerful fruit.
Red
2021 Château Beychevelle
Mineral, graphite, earth, a little biscuit, jubey black fruits with a minty underpin…quite a pretty and enticing nose. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity, it’s fresh, fleshy with slightly toasty black fruits and persistent, long, drying tannins which carry the fruit on the finish with a touch of mint. Balanced, glorious, beautiful.
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Red
2021 Duluc de Branaire-Ducru
Meaty, savoury notes over plums, sweet spice on the nose. Juicy, savoury, slightly chalky tannins but an impression of smoothness, wet, simple, it’s a bit anonymous.
Red
2021 Château Branaire-Ducru
Red currant and red berries supported by brambles, plums, a little violet and a very slight meaty underpin. Polished oak lends a plushness to the nose. In the mouth it’s juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, talc textured tannins, again red fruited with a brambly background, oak present and lends slight toasty notes. Fresh-ish and gets more jubey with time on both the nose and the palate. Pleasant
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Red
2020 Château Branaire-Ducru
Ripe, thick, dense black fruits with a red currant underpin, polished oak lends caramel, toast, clean. Medium plus intensity acidity and medium plus intensity tight, chewy tannins that are persistent and grainy join medium plus intensity (a theme is emerging) fruit and oak flavours. Fruit is a black hued melange. Long. Big. Okay but time required.
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Red
2019 Château Branaire-Ducru
Slightly bacon fat notes – it’s almost a little reductive in fact (popped and poured), brambles & plums are ripe, concentrated though there is also a little tomato leaf. Juicy, concentrated though there is a sense of freshness, tannins are chalky, drying. It’s oddly compelling. Rather nice and I think a bit more air will defo help.
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Red
2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Haut-Médoc Madame de Beaucaillou
Medium minus intensity aromas of ripe plum with a slightly at odds red currant underpin, a little floral note especially violets. In the mouth it’s sour with bitter hard tannins that subsume the muted fruit. A little creaminess on the finish. Pretty awful
Red
2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Le Petit Ducru
Earthy with plums, blackcurrant, polished oak, and a slight red currant underpin as well as some herbaceous, green notes which become increasingly dominant with time in the glass. The fruit proves a little plump on the palate but a wave of unwieldy, woody, chalky tannins drown this and leaves the impression of sucking a stave on the finish. Nah
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Red
2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou La Croix Ducru-Beaucaillou
Slightly odd creamy, milky notes initially then subdued black fruits and a little black tea…the medium plus intensity acidity on the palate lends sourness to the fruit, chalky tannins demand attention and that odd, milky note appears on the finish. Pretty rough stuff to be honest.
Red
2021 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
Medium minus intensity aromas show violets, a little toast with an alcohol prickle and black hued fruits. With agitation, and a little time, the fruit becomes more blackcurrant dominant with a leafy backdrop. In the mouth it’s juicy, wet with medium plus intensity drying, chalky, chewy tannins. The fruit proves a little greener on the palate. I must confess based on the vintage reports I’d read this was probably the kind of wine that I was expecting. It’s awkward and gangly. Not for me
Red
2021 Château Pibran
Shown at Pichon Baron
Ripe black fruit; plums over blackcurrant with a little black cherry, slightly woody notes, graphite. Juicy initially it proves a little bit hard and drying from a tannic perspective, but this doesn’t impede the fruit which remains rather pretty. Nice.
Ripe black fruit; plums over blackcurrant with a little black cherry, slightly woody notes, graphite. Juicy initially it proves a little bit hard and drying from a tannic perspective, but this doesn’t impede the fruit which remains rather pretty. Nice.
Red
2021 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Les Griffons de Pichon Baron
Pretty, floral elements show mostly violet, earthy underpin, then some plum over blackcurrant. In the mouth it’s juicy and fleshy with dark hued fruit, slightly chalky textured tannins. It’s not particularly flashy but it is quaffable and eminently approachable.
Red
2021 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
Polished with blackcurrant, bramble, sweet spice, fruity, pretty…the quality is obvious, it’s integrated and balanced on the nose. Medium plus intensity acidity on the palate, dark hued fruits, fleshy and fresh, silky supporting tannins, all persist long. Lovely
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White
2021 Château Suduiraut Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec
Shown at Pichon Baron
Green apple over a little lime with some creamy notes. Pronounced acidity on the palate but not sharp or sour just crazily mouth-watering. Palate flavours reflect the nose. After the reds this is rather refreshing but, alas, not very interesting or exciting
Green apple over a little lime with some creamy notes. Pronounced acidity on the palate but not sharp or sour just crazily mouth-watering. Palate flavours reflect the nose. After the reds this is rather refreshing but, alas, not very interesting or exciting
White - Sweet/Dessert
2021 Château Suduiraut
Shown at Pichon Baron
Apricot, marmalade, vanilla, cream but with a slightly meaty funkiness underpinning this. Medium plus intensity acidity is offset by lusciously sweet sugar levels, similar flavour profile to the nose (with the funkiness) but joined by a little pineapple as well. The oak lends a little texture on the mid palate. The sugar level is very slight too high for me.
Apricot, marmalade, vanilla, cream but with a slightly meaty funkiness underpinning this. Medium plus intensity acidity is offset by lusciously sweet sugar levels, similar flavour profile to the nose (with the funkiness) but joined by a little pineapple as well. The oak lends a little texture on the mid palate. The sugar level is very slight too high for me.
Red
2021 Château Pontet-Canet
From half bottle and decanted before serving.
Liquorice, quite reticent initially then shows polished oak, a slightly green herbaceous note, a little peppery spice and, with vigorous agitation, a little black hued fruit. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity, flavours of blackcurrant with a little cranberry note, broad, alcohol warmth is intrusive, tannins are drying, chalky and enamel stripping with a slightly green underpin, touches of peppery spice on the finish. Meh
Liquorice, quite reticent initially then shows polished oak, a slightly green herbaceous note, a little peppery spice and, with vigorous agitation, a little black hued fruit. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity, flavours of blackcurrant with a little cranberry note, broad, alcohol warmth is intrusive, tannins are drying, chalky and enamel stripping with a slightly green underpin, touches of peppery spice on the finish. Meh
Red
2021 Pichon Comtesse Réserve
Plum, blackcurrant, black cherry, slight cream and a smidge of vanilla; polished oak, sweet spice, a touch of alcohol prickle lends a slight peppery note. Medium plus intensity acidity, plenty of oak on the palate, juicy, fleshy, tannins are chalky black fruit persists beneath this, it’s got a bit of alcohol here as well, quite warm. meh
Red
2021 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
Blackcurrant, a little sweaty note, touch of biscuit, polished oak, smidge of eucalyptus in the background. Medium plus intensity acidity, tight chewy tannins are flour textured and fairly enamel stripping with a green underpin, the dark fruits persist beneath this…not as charming or approachable as the drop from the other side of the road.
Red
2021 Château Le Crock
Shown at Leoville Poyferre
Initially closed, a little cedar, perfumed top notes, ripe herbaceous, blackcurrant, quite an austere nose. Juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, black fruits – especially blackcurrant, and a little candied note, plentiful tannic grip (which feels more grape than oak) but in a supporting role. Pretty nice, especially considering the price point
Initially closed, a little cedar, perfumed top notes, ripe herbaceous, blackcurrant, quite an austere nose. Juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, black fruits – especially blackcurrant, and a little candied note, plentiful tannic grip (which feels more grape than oak) but in a supporting role. Pretty nice, especially considering the price point
Red
2021 Château Moulin Riche
Shown at Leoville Poyferre
Aromas of biscuit, plum over black fruits, a little graphite. Softly engaging with slightly alcohol driven peppery notes. Again, the tannins seem more derived from grape than wood and are in a supporting role. There is some bitterness on the finish, but this feels integrated rather than detracting from the overall experience. Okay.
Aromas of biscuit, plum over black fruits, a little graphite. Softly engaging with slightly alcohol driven peppery notes. Again, the tannins seem more derived from grape than wood and are in a supporting role. There is some bitterness on the finish, but this feels integrated rather than detracting from the overall experience. Okay.
Red
2021 Château Léoville Poyferré
Something odd, initially, a little muddy, dirty, fresh earth note which sinks behind some black cherry, blackcurrant and polished oak notes. In the mouth it’s tightly tannic and sourly juicy, worked and pretty unpleasant. It feels as if they have tried a little too hard
Red
2021 Château Sénéjac
Shown at Talbot.
Green, spicy, peppery, red over black currant, herbaceous with medium plus intensity acidity. Quite green on the palate, a little liquorice and black fruit play a supporting role, slightly coarse tannins, and some alcohol warmth…I’m guessing a little heavy-handed chaptalisation.
Green, spicy, peppery, red over black currant, herbaceous with medium plus intensity acidity. Quite green on the palate, a little liquorice and black fruit play a supporting role, slightly coarse tannins, and some alcohol warmth…I’m guessing a little heavy-handed chaptalisation.
Red
2021 Château Talbot Connétable de Talbot
Meaty, savoury over black hued fruits. Juicy, wet, fleshy, simple, a little dark hued fruit on the palate, tannins reined in, just a touch of talcy texture, but they persist with that fleshy fruit. Rather charming
Talbot 2021
Talbot 2021
Red
2021 Château Talbot
Initially black cherry, berries, currants, a little plum, pretty fruits, a little cedar, more concentrated than the Connetable but still with fresh acid and a fleshiness to the fruit, tannins are talc textured, long, lovely.
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White
2021 Château Talbot Caillou Blanc
Grass, apple, gooseberries and a bit of cat’s pee, very slight passion fruit (guessing multi picking sessions), slight struck match. Oddly (considering the vintage) it lacks a little freshness on the palate, touch of texture on the tongue. Meh.
Red
2021 Château Mauvesin Barton L'Impression de Mauvesin Barton
Red plums, red berries, blackcurrant and graphite with a little pencil shaving, sweet spice, savoury and meaty…the palate belies the nose though with stingy fruit and tight chewy tannins.
Red
2020 Château Mauvesin Barton L'Impression de Mauvesin Barton
Perfumed red fruit shows plums with a little bramble in support, cedar, and graphite also here, there is a sense of richness but also a smidge of leafiness as well. Talc textured tannins on the palate, the fruit present as well as that complexity from the nose, balanced and quite fleshy. Nice.
Red
2021 Château Mauvesin Barton
Clay, red fruits, polished oak as well as some pyrazine, pencil shavings and graphite. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy, and quite savoury, a little black fruit joins the red on the palate, slightly coarse floury tannins, slight alcohol warmth, okay.
Red
2021 Château Langoa Barton
Medium minus intensity aromas of black hued fruits, slight pyrazine, a little clay. It’s juicy, fleshy, the fruit persists beneath the slight coarse talc textured tannins, medium plus length, balanced, lightweight. Okay.
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Red
2021 Château Léoville Barton
Initially very claret on the nose with brambles, wild blackcurrant, cedar, oak spice. In the mouth it’s fairly concentrated, savoury with dark hued fruits, plenty of chalky tannins but at the right level for the fruit. Okay.
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Flight 5 - Academie du vin de Bordeaux dinner (30 notes)
First a little covering statement – my tasting notes were taken a little sporadically especially upon arrival. And I should say big thanks to the combined efforts of the people at Ballande & my kind chum Daniel as they helped me not only secure a tux (& accessories) for the dinner, but get it fitted and adjusted whilst my tux lay in Amsertdam in my lost luggage.
Now to the details: A note on the format and how I’ve laid out the tasting. Basically, there are a number of ‘tasting tables’ which shows wines from vintages ending in the year of the dinner – this year was 2022 so the tasting table had wines from vintage ending in 2 e.g., 1962 or 1982 etc. Additionally, there is a dinner where the first growths are also shown with the same vintage ruling. This year, as Covid has kyboshed the last two dinners, the Academie took the unprecedented step to show first growths from years ending in 0 rather than 2.
The evening flows as follows (well, it did for me) you arrive, find out your room and table of allocation (there are three rooms and multiple tables) and have a choice of Champagne or Sauternes/Barsac as an aperitif with nibbles, then there are some speeches (the green party mayor, the head of the academie and then Olivier Bernard who explains the format of the dinner), flesh is pressed, hands pumped and friends reacquainted, then you go and sit down for dinner, have the first course with the first ‘first growth’, then Olivier Bernard rings a bell and a massive scrum of older gentlemen in tuxes and ladies in fine dresses converge on these tables, elbowing, biting and scratching (okay, a little bit of poetic licence here but not much) to get a taste (pours are in the 20-30ml kind of area) of each of these wines. After a few minutes of frenzied slurping and scrimmaging the bell is rung again and we return to our tables for the next course (with the associated first growth and a little introduction from one of the guests) …and thus the evening proceeds until all the wine is drunk or the clock strikes midnight, and we turn into pumpkins (or wine barrels).
For convenience I’m going to list the Sauternes/Barsacs I tried upon entry, all the tasting table wines I managed to get to (there were 66 on show) and then the first growths that we had for dinner.
Those dinner wines were matched as follows:
Haut Brion blanc 2010 with dos de maigre a l’unilateral, asperges du domaine d’uza, mousseline de carotte et artichaut barigoule
Mouton Rothschild 2010 and Lafite Rothschild 2000 with Supreme de volaille de la Ferme de bertessec au foin, petits legumes de saison et pomme puree truffle
Margaux 1990 and Latour 1990 with Ossau Iraty fermier, Comte de reserve 20 mois, regalis
d’Yquem 2010 with orange mi confite aux epices, douces, mague fraiche, vinaigrette vanillee, crème glacee a la vanilla
I was lucky enough to sit next to someone who was pregnant (Gwendolyn Lucas from Chateau La Dominique) so (thanks to her kindness) I snaffled extra helpings of Mouton and d’Yquem.
It would not be an exaggeration to say this was the greatest wine experience of my life so far. Not sure when I got home but I felt like a barrel...
White - Sweet/Dessert
2002 Château Bastor-Lamontagne
This was a little dilute though had the expected botrytised characteristics as well as a little honey
White - Sweet/Dessert
2012 Château Nairac
Fresh, lightweight, and instantly smashable which made it one to get away from as quickly as possible!
White - Sweet/Dessert
2012 Château de Myrat
From magnum
Densely rich, borderline cloying in fact, a little too soft for me.
Densely rich, borderline cloying in fact, a little too soft for me.
Red
1962 Domaine de Chevalier
From magnum
Ripe, slightly baked red hued fruits, leather and earth complete a rather promising nose. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy with plenty of tannic grip, as well as that fruit profile and leathery earthy notes. Showing very well. Lovely
Ripe, slightly baked red hued fruits, leather and earth complete a rather promising nose. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy with plenty of tannic grip, as well as that fruit profile and leathery earthy notes. Showing very well. Lovely
Red
1962 Château Pontet-Canet
From magnum
Hmm, it’s a bit funky, touch of cellar stink, a little sourly juicy on the palate, tannic burr. Hmm.
Hmm, it’s a bit funky, touch of cellar stink, a little sourly juicy on the palate, tannic burr. Hmm.
Red
1962 Château Poujeaux
From magnum
Ripe red berries, leather, mushroom, earth…in the mouth it’s juicy and fleshy, still has tannic grip. All travel long. Lovely
Ripe red berries, leather, mushroom, earth…in the mouth it’s juicy and fleshy, still has tannic grip. All travel long. Lovely
Red
1972 Château Larcis Ducasse
From magnum
A little red currant and cranberry on the nose. Sourly juicy and flavours in the red, so to speak with plenty of talc textured tannins. Hmm
A little red currant and cranberry on the nose. Sourly juicy and flavours in the red, so to speak with plenty of talc textured tannins. Hmm
Red
1982 Château Batailley
flawed
From magnum
Rich, polished and lovely dark hued fruit with grip on the mid palate. Note: My first tasting was reasonably early, but this was overtaken by cork taint over the evening. Didn’t impact my rapid tasting but I am marking this flaw.
Rich, polished and lovely dark hued fruit with grip on the mid palate. Note: My first tasting was reasonably early, but this was overtaken by cork taint over the evening. Didn’t impact my rapid tasting but I am marking this flaw.
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Red
1982 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
From magnum
Big and bold, shows incredibly young for a 40-year-old wine, even from magnum. Rather splendid.
Big and bold, shows incredibly young for a 40-year-old wine, even from magnum. Rather splendid.
Red
1952 Château Siran
From double magnum
Medium minus intensity aromas of leather, earth, red fruits, mushroom, Autumn leaves, savoury notes, a little bonfire…in the mouth all of this exists with a lovely sense of freshness and fleshiness, a silky tannic burr and plenty of length. Incredible.
Medium minus intensity aromas of leather, earth, red fruits, mushroom, Autumn leaves, savoury notes, a little bonfire…in the mouth all of this exists with a lovely sense of freshness and fleshiness, a silky tannic burr and plenty of length. Incredible.
Red
1952 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
Leather, earth, a little ripe berry and plum. In the mouth it is both juicy and surprisingly dense though the tertiary notes dominate. Hmm
Red
1982 Château Talbot
From magnum
Earthy and leathery, black hued fruit, surprisingly good nose. Juicy with a little clove, the aroma implied flavours exist on the palate. Wonderful, superb in fact.
Earthy and leathery, black hued fruit, surprisingly good nose. Juicy with a little clove, the aroma implied flavours exist on the palate. Wonderful, superb in fact.
Red
1982 Château Phélan Ségur
A little more forward compared to the other 82’s (no surprises as it’s from bottle not magnum), black hued fruit, earth, leather, a little Asian five spice. In the mouth it has juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, leather, blackberry, fruit tea tannins, medium plus intensity length. Moderately yum
Red
1982 Château Giscours
From double magnum
Fruit tea over leather, sweet spice, savoury meaty notes, subdued brambles. More fleshy than juicy, savoury spice, talc textured tannins carry log. A little hard sensation on the finish. Nice though.
Fruit tea over leather, sweet spice, savoury meaty notes, subdued brambles. More fleshy than juicy, savoury spice, talc textured tannins carry log. A little hard sensation on the finish. Nice though.
Red
1982 Château Latour-Martillac
From magnum
Bovril, leather, bramble with a blackcurrant core, baked earth. Juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, textured grip, fruit a little muted on the palate. Okay.
Bovril, leather, bramble with a blackcurrant core, baked earth. Juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, textured grip, fruit a little muted on the palate. Okay.
Red
1982 Château Beauregard
From magnum
Cellar stink over dark hued fruits, sour on the palate and feels a bit ‘stripped’. Not sure if it’s flawed, just flat
Cellar stink over dark hued fruits, sour on the palate and feels a bit ‘stripped’. Not sure if it’s flawed, just flat
Red
1992 Château Clinet
From magnum
Wetly savoury, spice, tertiary mostly but with a little plummy note. In the mouth it’s sourly juicy with an impression of wetness, a little liquorice and leather, talc textured tannins, alcohol warmth. Meh
Wetly savoury, spice, tertiary mostly but with a little plummy note. In the mouth it’s sourly juicy with an impression of wetness, a little liquorice and leather, talc textured tannins, alcohol warmth. Meh
Red
2002 Château Pontet-Canet
From magnum
Aged black fruits are slightly dried out, sweet spice, still polished despite vintage; primary but balanced. Juicy, fleshy, savoury, tight tannins, very slightly sour dark fruits with a touch of red currant and alcohol warmth. Okay
Aged black fruits are slightly dried out, sweet spice, still polished despite vintage; primary but balanced. Juicy, fleshy, savoury, tight tannins, very slightly sour dark fruits with a touch of red currant and alcohol warmth. Okay
Red
2002 Château La Dominique
From double magnum
Leather, spiced plum and pan d’epices, a little forest floor as well, smells fresh though it is considerably denser on the palate, tannic mid palate grip is slight chalky, tight, a little alcohol warmth, flavours are here as well. Hmm
Leather, spiced plum and pan d’epices, a little forest floor as well, smells fresh though it is considerably denser on the palate, tannic mid palate grip is slight chalky, tight, a little alcohol warmth, flavours are here as well. Hmm
Red
2002 Château Haut-Bages Libéral
From magnum
Meaty with marmite and beef extract, all slide to Brett with a touch of herbaceousness, a little black fruit cordial with salted liquorice. Gets meatier with time. It’s a little sour and ‘wrong’ on the palate. Nah
Meaty with marmite and beef extract, all slide to Brett with a touch of herbaceousness, a little black fruit cordial with salted liquorice. Gets meatier with time. It’s a little sour and ‘wrong’ on the palate. Nah
Red
2002 Château Prieuré-Lichine
From double magnum
Wetly fruited, dark berries with a red berry and plum underpin; smells like it’s going to be fleshy with a little meaty underpin. Juicy and softly engaging, fruit sits in this mix, tannins are silky, persistent, wonderfully fresh and engaging.
Wetly fruited, dark berries with a red berry and plum underpin; smells like it’s going to be fleshy with a little meaty underpin. Juicy and softly engaging, fruit sits in this mix, tannins are silky, persistent, wonderfully fresh and engaging.
Red
2002 Château Camensac
From magnum
Quite forward, earth, leather, subdued black fruit. Juicy, fresh, fruit lightweight and a little herbaceous.
Quite forward, earth, leather, subdued black fruit. Juicy, fresh, fruit lightweight and a little herbaceous.
Red
2002 Château Kirwan
From magnum
A little muscular for the vintage with a melange of wild black fruits. Juicy savoury, black fruits with a sour and wild note, chalky tannins, a little green in the mouth but okay.
A little muscular for the vintage with a melange of wild black fruits. Juicy savoury, black fruits with a sour and wild note, chalky tannins, a little green in the mouth but okay.
White
2010 Château Haut-Brion Blanc
From magnum
Medium minus intensity aromas of lemon, grass; a slightly herbaceous note, juicy and honeyed but with an almost saline underpin, less obviously citrus in the mouth and a touch of waxiness to the mid palate. Nom nom nom
Medium minus intensity aromas of lemon, grass; a slightly herbaceous note, juicy and honeyed but with an almost saline underpin, less obviously citrus in the mouth and a touch of waxiness to the mid palate. Nom nom nom
Red
2010 Château Mouton Rothschild
Perfumed and sweet spice (think pain d’epices) with blackcurrant. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy, polished, balanced, not overly powerful but with a sense of power, tannins are talc textured, long, plush, impressive
Red
2000 Château Lafite Rothschild
Leather, mushroom, blackberry, and blackcurrant and plenty of spice, a little peppery alcohol prickle. In the mouth it’s massive and unwieldy, drying floury textured tannins persist very long. I’d say time will help but it’s already showing plenty of tertiary notes at 22 years old from a good vintage. Hmm
Red
1990 Château Margaux
Perfumed, sweet spice, not really any tertiary characteristics, plums, black fruit compote (blackcurrant, a little black cherry, and touches of cassis), very slight saline notes. Incredibly enticing nose. Juicy, savoury but with a sweet fruit core, talc textured drying tannins persist with the fruit long. Incredible on the palate as well. Marvellous
Red
1990 Château Latour Grand Vin
From double magnum
Polished, rich, dense initially, ripe, concentrated, still exceedingly powerful on the nose, some alcohol prickle, ripe blackcurrant tends to cassis and a little rubbery reductiveness. In the mouth it is juicy with loads of ripe fruit, massive power is crazy but also precise, chalky and oaky tannins in support, alcohol warmth is contained. A beast but a rather splendid on with incredible potential – Double magnum goes some way to explaining its relative youthfulness.
Polished, rich, dense initially, ripe, concentrated, still exceedingly powerful on the nose, some alcohol prickle, ripe blackcurrant tends to cassis and a little rubbery reductiveness. In the mouth it is juicy with loads of ripe fruit, massive power is crazy but also precise, chalky and oaky tannins in support, alcohol warmth is contained. A beast but a rather splendid on with incredible potential – Double magnum goes some way to explaining its relative youthfulness.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Château d'Yquem
From magnum
All the botrytis you’d ever want with a lick of good quality oak. In the mouth more of the same with apricot, marmalade, oak, crème brulee and richness. All in balance but still manages to provide a synergistic outcome. Wonderful
All the botrytis you’d ever want with a lick of good quality oak. In the mouth more of the same with apricot, marmalade, oak, crème brulee and richness. All in balance but still manages to provide a synergistic outcome. Wonderful
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Flight 6 - Pauillac and St Estephe (40 notes)
Day 3 of tasting and we’re off to Pauillac with a trek further north to have a look at a few in St Estephe and grab lunch at Phelan Segur and then head back down to Pauillac to try the three first growths to finish the day.
Call outs today probably need some qualifying around price points. For instance, the Lacoste Borie was nice, the Ormes de Pez pleasing in a surprisingly rustic way (I say that considering the owners) and the Marquis de Calon though I would anticipate that these should be in the 20-25 Euro bracket at most. Other call outs are less surprising – the Lafite, Montrose and Latour all showed rather splendidly for me.
Of the whites today I’d probably put the Blanc de Lynch Bages and the Cos at the top of the rather small pile.
Red
2021 Lacoste Borie
Shown at Grand Puy Lacoste
Polished oak, buttery, rich, polished black fruits, cassis, slight sweet spice, very slight mint note. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy, slightly more savoury on the palate, talc textured tannins tug at the mid palate, slight alcohol warmth on the finish. Nice
Polished oak, buttery, rich, polished black fruits, cassis, slight sweet spice, very slight mint note. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy, slightly more savoury on the palate, talc textured tannins tug at the mid palate, slight alcohol warmth on the finish. Nice
Red
2021 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
Slightly more savoury on the nose than the Borie, dark hued fruits, less cassis and more blackberry and blackcurrant and with a little more perfume. Juicy, fleshy, the fruit has a very slight green underpin, slight chalky tannins, drying and moderately flour textured. Alcohol contained. Hmm on this tasting.
Red
2021 Château Haut-Batailley Verso
Shown at Lynch Bages
Polished oak, red cherry is slightly sour smelling, a little jubey underpin is charming though and translates to a little raspberry on the palate, touch of cream, tannins are a bit out of whack – not massive or hard but disjointed and it finishes a touch bitter. Hmm
Polished oak, red cherry is slightly sour smelling, a little jubey underpin is charming though and translates to a little raspberry on the palate, touch of cream, tannins are a bit out of whack – not massive or hard but disjointed and it finishes a touch bitter. Hmm
Red
2021 Château Haut-Batailley
Shown at Lynch Bages
A little tomato leaf, slightly sour black currant, a little cream, sweet spice, violets, herbaceous, red plum. Wetly juicy, fruit not as sour as the nose implies and it’s pleasantly fleshy, tannins are very front of mouth, grippy, drying and sit apart from the other elements, finishes a little bitter. Hmm.
A little tomato leaf, slightly sour black currant, a little cream, sweet spice, violets, herbaceous, red plum. Wetly juicy, fruit not as sour as the nose implies and it’s pleasantly fleshy, tannins are very front of mouth, grippy, drying and sit apart from the other elements, finishes a little bitter. Hmm.
Red
2021 Château Ormes de Pez
Shown at Lynch Bages
Medium minus intensity aromas of biscuit, cedar, non-delineated black fruits, clay. Juicy, slightly coarse tannins are drying, fruit a little rustic, touch of liquorice and almost black olive, saline, rocky minerality, rough, rustic but still kind of fun.
Medium minus intensity aromas of biscuit, cedar, non-delineated black fruits, clay. Juicy, slightly coarse tannins are drying, fruit a little rustic, touch of liquorice and almost black olive, saline, rocky minerality, rough, rustic but still kind of fun.
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Red
2021 Echo de Lynch-Bages
Medium minus intensity aromas of polished oak, blackcurrant tends to cassis, very slight clay aromas underpin with a smidge of red currant. It’s a little four square on the palate, tight, talc textured tannins, fruit muted, nice nose, mouth disappoints, time will obviously help
Red
2021 Château Lynch-Bages
Cassis, clay and mineral notes vie for attention over sweet spice, the whole grows in intensity with time in the glass with a little baked red fruit underpin. Medium plus intensity acidity, plentiful dark fruits and flour textured tannins are all in balance on the palate though the tannins grow to take over with time and begin to dominate. Slightly alcohol warmth on the finish as well.
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White
2021 Château Lynch-Bages Blanc de Lynch-Bages
Gooseberry, cream, polished oak lends sweet spices, there is a slight orchard fruit under this. Nice nose. Juicy palate a reflection of the nose, a little passion fruit note as well, harmonious, medium plus intensity acidity is handled very well. Splendid.
Red
2021 Château Capbern
Shown at Calon Segur
Slightly jammy red berry fruit, raspberry and strawberry initially with a little cream and caramel, smells lightweight. Juicy, more savoury on the palate, fruit muted, tannins chalky slight alcohol warmth on the finish. Nose nicer than the palate.
Slightly jammy red berry fruit, raspberry and strawberry initially with a little cream and caramel, smells lightweight. Juicy, more savoury on the palate, fruit muted, tannins chalky slight alcohol warmth on the finish. Nose nicer than the palate.
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Red
2021 Le Marquis de Calon Ségur
Plummy initially over blackcurrant, plenty of polished oak, a little fruit lozenge note as well. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, softly engaging on the palate, easy with a lightweight, relatively silky tannic burr, medium plus length, slightly savoury bur rather good in a lighter style.
Red
2021 Château Calon-Ségur
Pretty dark fruit, sweet spice, a little savoury underpin, blackcurrant fruit. Juicy, fleshy initially with more savoury black fruits married to liquorice, tannins are softly engaging again, coarse silk textured, it’s nice, easy to drink, balanced but, arguably, a little anonymous.
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Red
2021 Château Phélan Ségur Frank Phelan
Plush plums, sweet spice, very slight tar, rocky minerality, red hued fruit underpin. Juicy, plummy, fleshy, drying talc textured tannins persist long, fruit doesn’t quite carry, despite some very slight alcohol warmth, which is a pity. Otherwise, nice enough.
Red
2021 Château Phélan Ségur
Polished and plush, like the Frank, polished oak, black fruit tends to cassis and red berry fruits, sweet spice. Medium plus intensity acidity, tannins and fruit arrive together vying for attention. The former is chalky and drying and slightly more demanding that the fruit which proves slightly sour but not distressingly so. Hmm
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Red
2021 Château Tronquoy
Served at Montrose
Red berries, rhubarb, slightly dusty glasses, red plum, a little sour cherry and slight wet earthy underpin. In the mouth it’s juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, very red fruit with a fruit tea underpin, tannins show a certain woodiness – a bit like licking a stick. Finishes savoury and a little bitter, pleasant in an early drinking way. A reflection of the vintage?
Red berries, rhubarb, slightly dusty glasses, red plum, a little sour cherry and slight wet earthy underpin. In the mouth it’s juicy with medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, very red fruit with a fruit tea underpin, tannins show a certain woodiness – a bit like licking a stick. Finishes savoury and a little bitter, pleasant in an early drinking way. A reflection of the vintage?
Red
2021 La Dame de Montrose
Fresh ripe plums, brambles, blackcurrants, slightly leafy notes, sweet spice, a little pepper, dusty glass lingers a little, polished oak. An impression of austerity on the nose despite all that is going. Medium plus intensity acidity is a little high, tannins are quire hard but dominant, slight concentrated black fruits travel with tannic supports finishes savoury and with that tannic toughness
Red
2021 Château Montrose
Reticent showing black fruit especially blackcurrant and good quality, oak, clean nose, less obviously acidic that the Dame but still very much in the Medium plus intensity area. Dark hued fruit slides towards the savoury and persist very long. Tannins taste like they’re from oak and grape, sandy textured. All travel long. Simple but wonderfully harmonious
Red
2021 G d'Estournel
Struck match, red berries, red plum, raspberries, slight alcohol prickle, sweet spice. Medium plus acidity, massive chalky tannins fruit suffers but is also muted, and sour red berries, finishes bitter, medium length. Nah.
Red
2021 Les Pagodes de Cos
Some struck match/reductive notes, red and black fruits, a little oak spice, fruit shows bitter here, a little almost orange/mandarin note. Medium plus intensity acidity, fruits carry up a bit more after the G, touch of liquorice as well, similar tannic profile to the G but the fruit more pronounced and persists a little more but this still isn’t a particularly good wine for me.
Red
2021 Château Cos d'Estournel
Polished oak and, again, that struck match reductive note here as well, black berry and brambles, slight plums. Medium plus intensity acidity, savoury dark hued fruits, massive woody chalky tannins close down the palate, fruit is a whisper beneath this. All persist long. It’s a bit out of whack at the moment.
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White
2021 Les Pagodes de Cos Blanc
On the nose cream, passion fruit apple, sweet spice. Medium plus intensity acidity brings sharpness to the palate, quite green apple, a little woody like to the mid-palate. Hmm
White
2021 Château Cos d'Estournel Blanc
A slightly riper version of the Pagodes…actually, that’s not fair, more complex, and more worked; gooseberry and pear join apple and passion fruit, sweet spice, leesy, rich. Very slight sourness to the palate is not off-putting otherwise reflects the nose. Rather good.
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Red
2021 Les Pelerins de Lafon-Rochet
Woody red and black fruits, violet, Medium plus acidity, sourly plummy with savoury woody tannins, quite tight, tannins are a little too much for the sour fruit. Not very pleasant.
Red
2021 Château Lafon-Rochet
Blackcurrant with a savoury saline underpin, slight cream, alcohol prickle (oddly, considering the vintage) and cedar. Medium plus intensity acidity, savoury but not sour, wild blackcurrant, drying, chalky tannins tear at the teeth, fruit persists beneath this. Hmm
Red
2021 Moulin de Duhart
Served at Lafite
Black over slight red plum, fresh plums, slight caramel, sweet spice. Medium plus intensity acidity, chalky, grainy tannins are savoury but based on grape and wood, drying but the fruit persists beneath this finishing with a peppery note. A little sour.
Black over slight red plum, fresh plums, slight caramel, sweet spice. Medium plus intensity acidity, chalky, grainy tannins are savoury but based on grape and wood, drying but the fruit persists beneath this finishing with a peppery note. A little sour.
Red
2021 Château Duhart-Milon
Served at Lafite
Polished black fruit and oak, a little biscuit, slight sweet spice, savoury. Medium plus intensity acidity, fruit more than present with hard tannins that prove quite four square, it’s rather nice.
Polished black fruit and oak, a little biscuit, slight sweet spice, savoury. Medium plus intensity acidity, fruit more than present with hard tannins that prove quite four square, it’s rather nice.
Red
2021 Carruades de Lafite
Plums, brambles, oak spice, initially rather spicy with a little black fruit lozenge underpin. Medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, slightly savoury plummy fruit, plush tannins are slightly woody, talc textured finishes very slight astringent but this very impressive.
Red
2021 Château Lafite Rothschild
Woof. Blackcurrant, mint leaf strays to the pyrazine, graphite. Very precise Cabernet. Medium plus intensity acidity, blackcurrant fruit, wood over grape tannins are drying and talc textured, a little salinity here as well. Long. Balanced. Powerful. Lovely.
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Red
2021 Château d'Armailhac
Served at Mouton
Woody, red over black fruits, slight cream, jubey notes here as well as a little sweet spice. Slightly meaty underpin. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, fruit is a little sour, tannins are chalky though the fruit persists with these drying tannins and a touch of yeast extract. Hmm.
Woody, red over black fruits, slight cream, jubey notes here as well as a little sweet spice. Slightly meaty underpin. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, fruit is a little sour, tannins are chalky though the fruit persists with these drying tannins and a touch of yeast extract. Hmm.
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Red
2021 Château Clerc Milon Pastourelle de Clerc Milon
Served at Mouton
Meaty, savoury, concentrated dark fruits, muted oak, yeast extract. Even with agitation the nose refuses to yield. Medium plus intensity acidity, meaty but with a dark hued fruit core, tannins are talc textures, and this finishes quite savoury
Meaty, savoury, concentrated dark fruits, muted oak, yeast extract. Even with agitation the nose refuses to yield. Medium plus intensity acidity, meaty but with a dark hued fruit core, tannins are talc textures, and this finishes quite savoury
Red
2021 Château Clerc Milon
Served at Mouton
Meaty, black fruits, Asian five spice and a little biscuit, slightly jubey fruit core. Polished oak. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, pleasing, surprisingly lightweight tannins help with the fruit. Wetly enjoyable. Nice.
Meaty, black fruits, Asian five spice and a little biscuit, slightly jubey fruit core. Polished oak. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, pleasing, surprisingly lightweight tannins help with the fruit. Wetly enjoyable. Nice.
Red
2021 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild
Slightly meaty, toasty, cedar, almost sandalwood. Huge, drying tannins combine with the medium plus intensity acidity and a little peppery note on the finish. I’m not really sure what they’re trying to do here…the complete lack of fruit is rather flummoxing. I can only guess that this is a poor sample.
Red
2021 Château Mouton Rothschild
Medium minus intensity aromas of blackcurrant, brambles, black hued fruits, sweet spice, cedar, a little meaty note here as well. Medium plus intensity acidity, like the petit the tannins are quite overwhelming, chalky chewy and drying, those black hued fruits are present but in a support role. All travels long with a little red fruit note becoming more evident on the nose. Hmm
White
2021 Château Mouton Rothschild Aile D'Argent Blanc
Pleasing cloudiness to this obvious barrel sample – Mouton naturel, if you will – smells so like fresh gooseberries that it takes me back to preparing gooseberry crumble with my mum as a young boy. Of course, we didn’t make it in a new oak barrel…medium plus intensity acidity is juicy, gooseberry on the palate with creamy lees and oak, textured burr on mid palate. Travels long that oak is a little intrusive on the finish. Hmm
White - Sweet/Dessert
2021 Château Coutet Barsac
Served at Mouton
Apricot, orange marmalade, vanilla, cream. Medium plus intensity acidity offsets against the luscious sugar level rather well, similar. Flavour profile to the nose. Very pleasing.
Apricot, orange marmalade, vanilla, cream. Medium plus intensity acidity offsets against the luscious sugar level rather well, similar. Flavour profile to the nose. Very pleasing.
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Red
2017 Pauillac de Latour
Slight sour red berries showing a little pyrazine and black hued fruits; a little plum, blackberry, green underpin, and a little red fruit underpin. Juicy, plentiful chewy tannins, medium plus intensity acidity, finishes a little short.
Red
2021 Pauillac de Latour
Biscuit, plums, shows slightly riper than the 2017, a little fruit tea quality, sweet spice. medium plus intensity acidity, tight tannins, fruit extremely muted on the palate, that fruit tea note on the finish. Meh.
Red
2016 Les Forts de Latour
Medium plus intensity aromas are plush, plummy; slight baked plums, blackcurrant, oak, spice; a little caramel. Big palate. Juicy acidity is medium plus acidity but checked by plentiful fruits supported by oaky notes, tannins are long, present, chalky textured but in a supporting role. Long, very good
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Red
2021 Les Forts de Latour
Plums, polished oak but with a slightly sharp red fruit note, rhubarb underpin, there is also a touch of jubey fruit with time. Plenty of spice here as well. Slightly saline notes. Sourly juicy on the palate, showing plums and blackcurrant, tight chalky tannins are in support. Finishes a touch savoury. Balanced. Okay.
Red
2014 Château Latour Grand Vin
Black fruits, very slight leather, blackcurrant, plums, a little cherry and blackberry supported by very good quality oak. Very fruit pure nose and showing very young despite that slight leatheriness. In the mouth it is juicy, savoury, lashings of black fruits, plentiful drying tannins, still very young indeed but promising and pleasing.
Red
2021 Château Latour Grand Vin
Red berried fruit; raspberries and strawberries, over blue and black berry and wild blackcurrant: very fruit compote. Plentiful oak, graphite. The graphite note translates to the palate joining medium plus intensity acidity, slightly chalky tannins and finishes and a little bitter. Plenty of power here as well as the fruit which very comes to the party as well. Yummy.
Flight 7 - Buffet lunch at Phelan Segur (2 notes)
And what a buffet lunch…a splendid cold spread that I cannot possibly do justice to here…lots of loveliness. Main was Medoc confit pork and, after the cold spread, it was always going to struggle to scale the heights of the first course. Wines were very much sipped as we had a fairly chunky afternoon to deal with…
Red
2016 Château Phélan Ségur Frank Phelan
Ripe plums, polished oak, a little concentrated sweet spice. Juicy but spiced and more savoury on the palate, floury tannins. Hmm.
Red
2017 Château Phélan Ségur
Quite oaky over red fruits; plums, ripe currant, berries, a little aniseed, black hued fruits in the background. Medium plus intensity acidity is a little hard. Fruit takes second place behind the oak, tight tannins close things down, slight alcohol warmth on the finish. But, again, fruit is playing 2nd fiddle, Hmm. I don’t think it has enough stuffing to support the oak.
Flight 8 - Supper with Laetitia and James at Vins Urbains (2 notes)
Massive result to catch up with these guys after a bit of a nightmare trying to get back my lost luggage (I finally succeeded at about 9.15pm which was a massive result). We met at the wonderful Vins Urbains and quickly punished three bottles of non-Bordeaux vin rouge before departing past midnight. Lovely, absolutely lovely night. Unfortunately, though I took notes on the third wine I neglected to write down exactly what it was; it was a Fleurie is all I can remember so that is, obviously, not included here. Ran off and got the last tram...
Red
2019 Domaine du Pélican Pinot Noir Arbois Clos Saint Laurent
lightweight, slightly funky, slightly bretty, but with ripeness – so not green or specifically red curranty just fresh and easy with a little burr
Red
2016 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) Bourgueil Grand Mont
dense and ripe for a loire cabernet franc with no bretty notes and only the hint of pencil shavings and graphite; more in the lightweight Cabernet Sauvignon space for me with a little green capsicum, gentle tannins but presence in the mouth
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Comments (6)
Flight 9 - Right bank (24 notes)
A single day flyer to the right bank for a quick rush around this exceedingly (for the vintage) underrated area. There were quite a few nicely handled wines here – the mentality seemed more about dialling back and creating a wine that represented the vintage – so constrained and contained.
Call outs today were the Berliquet, Figeac, Le Petit Cheval, Vieux Chateau Certan, La Conseillante, Beau Sejour Becot and the Mondot.
Red
2021 Château La Clotte
Served at Ausone
Medium minus intensity aromas of pretty red plums, a little vanilla, cream, sweet spice, quite subdued but that isn’t a bad thing. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity, the fruit is a little sour, fleshy, talc textured tannins rasp the tongue, a little alcohol finish, balanced but simple.
Medium minus intensity aromas of pretty red plums, a little vanilla, cream, sweet spice, quite subdued but that isn’t a bad thing. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity, the fruit is a little sour, fleshy, talc textured tannins rasp the tongue, a little alcohol finish, balanced but simple.
Red
2021 Chapelle d'Ausone
Meaty, savoury over muted plums, plenty of new oak is controlled, a little sulphur, sourly juicy, tannins a little hard and drying, finishes bitter and astringent, lacks fruit on the palate
Red
2021 Château Ausone
Meaty, savoury (like the Chapelle) but far more perfumed and floral, a little polished plummy fruit, less sour than the other two wines but it’s still present here, Medium plus intensity acidity, wild black plum with a slight peppery underpin. Obvious new oak is contained. A little fruit tea texture to the tannins. S’okay.
Red
2021 Château Berliquet
Another opportunity to try this wine during EP
Plummy with earthy underpin, a little cream, polished oak more in a supporting role on the nose, slight red plum and berry here as well. medium plus intensity acidity, chalky textured tannins but fruit present with this; fresh, fleshy, balanced, long, slight non-intrusive alcohol warmth. Nice to good. Shows as well as earlier this week.
Plummy with earthy underpin, a little cream, polished oak more in a supporting role on the nose, slight red plum and berry here as well. medium plus intensity acidity, chalky textured tannins but fruit present with this; fresh, fleshy, balanced, long, slight non-intrusive alcohol warmth. Nice to good. Shows as well as earlier this week.
Red
2021 Château Canon
Another opportunity to try this wine during EP
red and black plum, perfumed floral top notes, a little creamy leesy notes, plenty of polished oak. Juicy, fleshy, slightly sour non-delineated fruit; perhaps a little plum, berries. Tannins are silky and woody, breadth on the mid palate under this. With time there is a kind of hard, green, peppery underpin, a certain four-square chunkiness. The tannins gain weight, dryness and chalkiness of texture. Shows better than earlier this week but I’m still not convinced.
red and black plum, perfumed floral top notes, a little creamy leesy notes, plenty of polished oak. Juicy, fleshy, slightly sour non-delineated fruit; perhaps a little plum, berries. Tannins are silky and woody, breadth on the mid palate under this. With time there is a kind of hard, green, peppery underpin, a certain four-square chunkiness. The tannins gain weight, dryness and chalkiness of texture. Shows better than earlier this week but I’m still not convinced.
Red
2021 Château Figeac
Medium minus intensity aromas of blackcurrant, sweet spice, brambles, plums, red berries, all fruit is wild, and this is freshly engaging, oak present but controlled. Medium plus intensity acidity is a little sour but not unpleasantly so, that cornucopia of fruit is present here as well, chalky textured, drying, slightly woody tannins. Long, lovely.
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Red
2021 Château Quinault L'Enclos
Medium minus intensity aromas of plums with agitation, sweet spice, a little red berry underpin, meaty elements, alcohol present but controlled, quite fresh smelling but still plush. Medium plus intensity acidity, fleshy, drying, chalky textured, persistent, savoury, slight woody tannins, a touch of alcohol warmth, fruit present and carried by the alcohol on the finish
Red
2021 Le Petit Cheval
Medium minus intensity initially, plums over black currant, slight vanilla and red berries, a little sweet spice, touch of leafiness and a lifted perfume aromatic quality. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity but integrated, a melange of black fruits. Lovely but tight tannic profile, persistent, floury textured, fruit persist, long. Balanced. Pretty clever.
Red
2021 Château Cheval Blanc
Blackcurrant springs from the glass with plums, a little mint, and plenty of polished oak in a supporting role. Touch of coffee here as well. Juicy acidity, fleshy but with plentiful tannins in support, similar profile to the Petit Cheval but even more controlled though it does finish a little hard and I find it very slightly out of whack. Okay
Red
2021 Vieux Château Certan
Pretty red and black plums and berries, a little sweet spice, pencil shavings, graphite, controlled oak. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, similar fruit profile; that red fleshiness and a sense of sappiness, slightly gritty tannins, slight alcohol warmth, a little savoury on the finish. Rather pleasant, elegant, very good.
Red
2021 Château La Conseillante
Plush, plummy, fresh fruits, sweet spice with a little caramel underpin, pretty nose with slight floral uplift. Juicy tends to medium plus intensity acidity, softly yielding plummy fruit, slightly chalky tannins, a little oakiness, alcohol warmth lends a touch of spice to the finish joining a savoury underpin. Rather nice.
Red
2021 Blason de l'Evangile
Pretty plummy fruit is marred by a touch of dirty glass, a little red berry and some rhubarb in support, oak dialled back. Medium plus intensity acidity, slightly sour, a bit of alcohol warmth, plummy fruit, savoury almost salines underpin, chalky textured tannins. It’s a bit meh for me.
Red
2021 Château L'Evangile
Red berry a little toast, red plum, sweet spice, slightly confected lifted. Medium plus intensity acidity, drying chalky tannins are a little woody and quite savoury, fruit is quite red hued here as well, crunchy and this is on the cusp of sourness. Meh.
Red
2021 Château Clinet
Initially aromas show quite a lot of clay, with time some red berry fruit that has a slightly sharp herbaceous note, cedar, plenty of savoury spice. Sour on the palate, quite green, hard acidity and equally hard tannins, woody, pretty bad
Red
2021 Château Joanin Bécot
Lightweight red over black fruits, plums, berries, savoury, a little earthy underpin, fruit tea, bit of new oak here as well. Super fresh; juicy, freshly fruited – initially fruit sweet – stony tannins – like pebble sucking with a little woody note, a little alcohol warmth on the finish. Medium plus length. Okay.
Red
2021 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot
Slightly jammier than the Joanin Becot, oak spice; vanilla, sweet spice, a little toast, a little alcohol prickle, there is a little herbaceous underpin here as well; almost a green stalky note. Juicy acidity, fleshy, that green note is here as well but the lightweight fruit compote is in charge, tannins are slightly woody but very much in the background. Wetly enjoyable. A tiny little bit of oaky hardness on the finish but nicely handled. Very good.
Red
2021 Château Troplong Mondot Mondot
Plummy, rich, sweet spice, clean, polished, simple. Juicy, fresh plum, precise, fruit driven with chalky tannins that are more supporting that dominant, a little peppery spice on the finish. Long. Nice in a simple way.
Red
2021 Château Troplong Mondot
Polished oak, a little meaty underpin, earthy, plums, slight dusty spice, brambles, a littler dusty spice. Juicy, fleshy, chunky tannins vie with slightly sour dark hued fruit persisting long and demand attention but not in a shouty way. Very long. Okay for me.
Red
2021 Château Monbousquet
Served at Pavie
Plummy ripe, extracted, new oak, sweet spice, alcohol prickle lends spice. The palate a reflection of the nose; thickly engaging, tannins are subdued (compared to the alcohol-soaked fruits) and woody. Hmm
Plummy ripe, extracted, new oak, sweet spice, alcohol prickle lends spice. The palate a reflection of the nose; thickly engaging, tannins are subdued (compared to the alcohol-soaked fruits) and woody. Hmm
Red
2021 Château Pavie Decesse
Served at Pavie
Dusty baked red and black fruits, slightly stalky plums, polished oak, a little floral note, and a green underpin. Oak dryness from plenty of wood which dominates and closes down the palate, almost unapproachable
Dusty baked red and black fruits, slightly stalky plums, polished oak, a little floral note, and a green underpin. Oak dryness from plenty of wood which dominates and closes down the palate, almost unapproachable
Red
2021 Clos Lunelles
Served at Pavie
Red and black fruits, plums and berries, a little cherry. Oak less obvious but still present here. Juicy but then plenty of grape skin supported by oak tannins which close things down. Nose promises more than the palate delivers – time should assist
Red and black fruits, plums and berries, a little cherry. Oak less obvious but still present here. Juicy but then plenty of grape skin supported by oak tannins which close things down. Nose promises more than the palate delivers – time should assist
Red
2021 Château Bellevue Mondotte
Served at Pavie
Red plums, a little raspberry, new oak – caramel, sweet spice, creamy notes. Juicy, fleshy, extracted, huge tannins dry things out again. A little hard greenness on the finish. Meh.
Red plums, a little raspberry, new oak – caramel, sweet spice, creamy notes. Juicy, fleshy, extracted, huge tannins dry things out again. A little hard greenness on the finish. Meh.
Red
2021 Château Pavie Arômes de Pavie
Black fruits; a little plum, blackberry, plenty of polished oak, cream, sweet spice. Juicy, fleshy, lack plums tannins are still huge but softer than the other wines I’ve tasted here at Pavie. Fruit persists. Okay
Red
2021 Château Pavie
Polished oak: caramel, sweet spice, a little toasty underpin, vanilla are the most evident attributes on the nose. A little black fruit is hiding behind this wooden curtain. Juicy, fleshy acidity, with time the fruit pokes it’s head out from behind the curtain, but this is very oaky and dry.
Flight 10 - lunch at La Conseillante (3 notes)
Lunch at La Conseillante with was very pleasant except the blind tasting which I totally and utterly tanked on…I really don’t know right bank wines that well and, when it comes to aged right bank, I’m even more ignorant. What was impressive was the longevity…unfortunately (for my wallet) I think I'm going to start trying to explore these wines in a little more depth.
Wines were matched to…1981 – soft tartlet of wild prawns with red wine tomato marmalade, crispy vegetables, rocket tempura, 2009 and 2015 to fillet of beef from Bazas, creamy polenta, summer truffles, shallots, mesclun Bordelais
Red
1981 Château La Conseillante
Served blind.
Leather, a little Brett, plum, earth, a little perfumed top note, underpin, smells fresh. Medium plus intensity acidity fruit more present than the nose implies, soft tannic burr, fully engaging, slight alcohol warmth lends a touch of peppery. Lovely, shows its age with time in the glass.
I guessed 1998 to my shame
Leather, a little Brett, plum, earth, a little perfumed top note, underpin, smells fresh. Medium plus intensity acidity fruit more present than the nose implies, soft tannic burr, fully engaging, slight alcohol warmth lends a touch of peppery. Lovely, shows its age with time in the glass.
I guessed 1998 to my shame
Red
2009 Château La Conseillante
Served blind.
Plush, rich, plummy fruit, plenty of sweet spice, polished oak. Medium plus intensity acidity, juicy, powerful, alcohol warmth, plummy fruit, talc textured tannins, long, balanced. Nice. Time shows age again.
I guessed 2014 to my chagrin
Plush, rich, plummy fruit, plenty of sweet spice, polished oak. Medium plus intensity acidity, juicy, powerful, alcohol warmth, plummy fruit, talc textured tannins, long, balanced. Nice. Time shows age again.
I guessed 2014 to my chagrin
Red
2015 Château La Conseillante
Served blind.
Polished oak, ripe plum, sweet spice, cream. Juicy, plummy dark hued fruit, talc textured tannins, fleshy, youthful, a little alcohol warmth on the finish. Big.
I guessed 2014 (again) to my embarrassment…more fumbling in the dark…
Polished oak, ripe plum, sweet spice, cream. Juicy, plummy dark hued fruit, talc textured tannins, fleshy, youthful, a little alcohol warmth on the finish. Big.
I guessed 2014 (again) to my embarrassment…more fumbling in the dark…
Flight 11 - Dinner at home with a supermarket selection (4 notes)
Had a free evening so popped to the Monoprix around the corner and picked up a lazy supper of filet beef, onion, butter, mushrooms, and white asparagus and four random bottles of leftish bank red all under 30 euros as a small consolation for missing the negociant tasting at the start of the week.
Red
2006 Château Coufran
Plummy, earthy, especially clay, a little band aid, brambles, pyrazine, and graphite. On the palate it’s sourly wet with muted plummy fruit and slightly coarsely textured tannic burr. With time a Bretty note grows on the nose and the plummy fruit rounds out and softens on the palate and is joined by some blackcurrant cordial.
Red
2011 Château Coutelin-Merville
Bretty, meaty, savoury dark hued fruits on the nose, slight pepper and rocky minerality. In the mouth it’s initially surprisingly fruity but this is elbowed aside by those meaty, Bretty elements and some fleshy talc textured tannic grip which is rather pleasing.
Red
2014 Château Le Bouscat
Meaty and savoury, a little tomato leaf, fresh herbs over muted plums and brambles, fruit grows with time. In the mouth it has medium plus intensity acidity with plums, sour blackberry, chalky textured drying tannins, a little savoury on the long finish. Okay
Red
2018 Château Haut-Tayac
Plums, brambles, a little leafy underpin, savoury and peppery spice in the background. In the mouth the fruit is surprisingly concentrated and dense with an inherent ripeness that isn’t implied by the nose. Tannins are drying, slightly grainy but don’t dominate or detract from the fruit. Rather nice.
Flight 12 - Pessac Leognan and Graves (15 notes)
Last day of EP tasting and we’re off to Pessac and Graves with lunch at one of my favourite producers, Domaine de Chevalier after which we headed back into town.
Call outs for the day for the reds where the Haut Brion, Les Carmes Haut Brion & the Smith Haut Lafitte. Of the whites the Haut Brion was wonderful, the Domaine de Chevalier splendid and the Smith Haut Lafitte pretty good.
Red
2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion
Medium minus intensity aromas of black and blueberry, sweet spice, is pretty and jubey with a plummy underpin. Soft, wetly engaging, muted palate, not flat just a little dilute. Tannins are soft, slight alcohol warmth on the finish.
Red
2021 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion
Polished black fruits, slight boot polish, a little prickly/peppery note, slight cream. Medium plus intensity acidity is sour, hard, fruit lacking, oaky flavoured tannins are present but more of a rasp than with massive grip. A little hot on the back palate. Meh
Red
2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion
Initially there is something wrong here – an almost repellent note – not sure how to describe it…it’s quite ‘off’. A vigorous shake seems to dispel this, and it shows black and blueberries, sweet spice and, with time, a little fruit lozenge quality. On the palate it has medium plus intensity acidity, drying woody tannins are chalky tannins, similar fruit profile to the nose. Long. Simple. Okay.
Red
2021 Château Haut-Brion
Black hued fruits: blackberry and cherry especially, spice, slight sulphur, again a little boot polish note, very slightly meaty underpin. Medium plus intensity acidity, fruit is, again, a little sour, tannins are very tight and drying, chewy and quite unyielding. Fruit persists beneath this and shows a little more ripeness on the finish.
White
2021 La Clarté de Haut-Brion Blanc
Aromas of gooseberry, cats pee, fresh grass, struck match, a little meaty underpin. Fruit splash with juicy acidity, a little cat’s tongue rasp to the mid palate, fruit drops on the medium plus length.
White
2021 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc
Perfumed, floral top notes with slightly more passion fruit than gooseberry, struck match, a little orchard fruit. New oak. Slightly sour on the palate, talc textured grip, medium minus intensity flavours persist long with a little herbaceous underpin. Time should help.
White
2021 Château Haut-Brion Blanc
Gooseberry, green apple, very slightly reductive, pretty, floral top notes, a little new oak. Nice nose. Juicy, fleshy, a little savoury note, creamy with the oaky caramel and sweet spice in support, the tannins are embedded. Long. Lovely fruits show a little mango and stone fruit as well as the orchard fruit and a little passion fruit. This is good.
Red
2021 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion
Meaty, savoury initially, chalky minerality over black hued fruits; currant, a little plum and a little red berry note, spice tends towards to pain d’epices. Juicy, medium plus intensity acidity, very slight sour, splash of softly subdued fruit, then slightly chalky, medium plus intensity tannins, that are grainy, slight alcohol warmth on the finish.
Red
2021 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
Aromas of violet, slightly meaty, black fruits which grow with time, cream, a little controlled oak. Despite the medium plus intensity acidity this has the sensation of softness on the palate, black fruits, integrated tannins are talc textured, finely tooled, there is a slightly unripe quality here as well at the end of the finish – a little green hardness, otherwise this is rather nice.
Red
2021 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Le Petit
Plums, cherry, sweet spice, polished oak, a little jubey not, pretty nose. Juicy acidity, plummy freshness, chalky textured tannins sit under the fruit, slightly savoury, liquorice note on the finish. Slight alcohol warmth. Okay
Red
2021 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
A denser and more concentrated version of the le petit – the cherry replaced by a little blackcurrant note. Oak is here as well as a little jubey underpin. In the mouth its juicy, savoury fruit is pleasantly bold, charming and engaging – quite pure – Tannins are talc textured and in support. Very nice.
White
2021 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Le Petit Blanc
Gooseberry, cream, caramel – sweet oak seems to dominate the nose, but this is served quite cold. Medium plus intensity acidity but balanced by fruit purity, tangy, bright almost crunchy fruit, long oak lends texture to the back palate, slight alcohol warmth
White
2021 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc
Again, gooseberry but a little passion fruit & pineapple as well as some cream, oak present but in the background, ripe with a little green apple. In the mouth it’s generous and charming, the oak lends richness, the fruit amalgamated but a little homogenous, touch of texture. Quite rich. Time.
Red
2021 Domaine de Chevalier
Barrel Sample
Cabernet dominant with blackcurrant and oak spice. In the mouth it’s juicy with okay spice, woody tannins, cream, black fruits play 2nd fiddle, oak a little high for the fruit at this stage
Cabernet dominant with blackcurrant and oak spice. In the mouth it’s juicy with okay spice, woody tannins, cream, black fruits play 2nd fiddle, oak a little high for the fruit at this stage
White
2021 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
Barrel Sample
Cream, gooseberry, honeydew melon, a little peachy underpin with a smidge of pineapple…lots going on. Spiced, juicy, fleshy, slight texture, fruit, pleasant carry long on the finish with a little alcohol warmth. Pretty good
Cream, gooseberry, honeydew melon, a little peachy underpin with a smidge of pineapple…lots going on. Spiced, juicy, fleshy, slight texture, fruit, pleasant carry long on the finish with a little alcohol warmth. Pretty good
Flight 13 - Lunch at Domaine de Chevalier (4 notes)
Lunch at my favourite producer in this neck of the woods was a real treat. Again, a blind tasting this time with the clue that all wines vintage ended with a 6.
Blanc matched to Tartare de fruite des pyrenees aux agrumes, emulsion a l’ail des ours
1986 & 2006 to the Blanquette de veau et riz sauvage
Suau matched to framboise sur sable Breton, crème legere
White
2006 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
Served blind.
Honey, waxy, slight oxidised with both green and bruised apple notes, slightly buttery note. Softly engaging, a little honey, pretty, a little texture, easy nice.
I guessed 2006 – though heavily clued up; this did feel a lot older and my initial thoughts, based on a recent vertical tasting, was that this was probably mid-nineties as this felt more advanced than the 2001 and 2002 that I recently tapped
Honey, waxy, slight oxidised with both green and bruised apple notes, slightly buttery note. Softly engaging, a little honey, pretty, a little texture, easy nice.
I guessed 2006 – though heavily clued up; this did feel a lot older and my initial thoughts, based on a recent vertical tasting, was that this was probably mid-nineties as this felt more advanced than the 2001 and 2002 that I recently tapped
Red
1986 Domaine de Chevalier
Served blind.
Leather, earth, Autumn leaves, red and blue berries; still has fruits, a little green note. Juicy, fleshy, talc textured tannins, softy berried fruit, leather, earth. Wetly engaging. Yum
I guessed 1986
Leather, earth, Autumn leaves, red and blue berries; still has fruits, a little green note. Juicy, fleshy, talc textured tannins, softy berried fruit, leather, earth. Wetly engaging. Yum
I guessed 1986
Red
2006 Domaine de Chevalier
Served blind.
A little age; leather, touch of farmyard, black hued fruit, slightly gamey. Juicy, talc textured tannins, black over red fruits, softly engaging (as always) lovely.
I guessed 1996 just to be a contrary bastard – it was obviously 2006 as the blanc was also showing forward - and was, correctly, persecuted for my stupidity
A little age; leather, touch of farmyard, black hued fruit, slightly gamey. Juicy, talc textured tannins, black over red fruits, softly engaging (as always) lovely.
I guessed 1996 just to be a contrary bastard – it was obviously 2006 as the blanc was also showing forward - and was, correctly, persecuted for my stupidity
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Comments (3)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2016 Château Suau Sauternes
Served blind.
Toast, slightly saline aromas, citrus, marmalade; orange mandarin, tangerine, very slight wood glue. Juicy, rich, a little blousy, but not Rieussec blousy, a little rustic, balanced, charming, youthful.
It was, because of its inherent freshness, easy to guess that this was 2016
Toast, slightly saline aromas, citrus, marmalade; orange mandarin, tangerine, very slight wood glue. Juicy, rich, a little blousy, but not Rieussec blousy, a little rustic, balanced, charming, youthful.
It was, because of its inherent freshness, easy to guess that this was 2016
Flight 14 - Quick taste at Vins Urbains (9 notes)
I packed quickly and was good to go for supper at early so headed into town and, after a brief visit to L’intendant Grands Vins de Bordeaux for a quick perv and to see if there was anything I could possibly justify purchasing (quelle surprise there was), I swanned back to Vins Urbains to taste as many of the blackboard wines as I could squeeze in before last night supper with Daniel. The owner was very kind and charged me 3/5 of FA to try all of these so I tipped appropriately. I cannot recommend this wine bar highly enough.
White
2021 Domaine Vico Corse Le Bois du Cerf
Very Vermentino nose but fresher and cooler than the Sardinians I looked at a few weeks ago; obviously this is from a cooler than we tasted as I’m at a wine bar as well which probably has an impact: Hands clamped, and wine swirled. Perfumed, floral blossom and apricot with fresh ginger on the nose; almost a bit Viognier but fresher, juicier on the palate without the glycerol fatness, bit of texture on the mid palate adds interest. Slight alcohol warmth on the finish but not intrusive. Nice.
White
2020 Domaine Giachino Vin de Savoie Monfarina
Smells waxy, with time slight flint, herbaceous notes, lime, green apple and a little creamy but this has quite low intensity aromas. On the palate it’s super fresh, sharply acidic, grassy, minimal sulphur, lime, and unripe green apple, wetly juicy, tangy, long, okay, begs oysters.
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White
2018 Domaine de l'Alliance Extérieur
Medium minus intensity aromas of green apple, clean, cream…this is from a half empty bottle and I’m not sure how long it’s been open. Palate offers more with juicy acidity, green apple, green gages and a textured burr to the mid palate, fruit, and tannins present. Relatively long. Good
White
2020 Domaine des Sables Verts Saumur Blanc Les Rouères
Medium minus intensity aromas are quite perfumed; bit of summer meadow, slight waxy underpin, buttery, cream, a little lemon. Medium plus intensity acidity, lovely round mouthfeel, a little citrus tanginess and softly engaging and palate burr. The acidity lends freshness, this is wonderfully yielding, a proper evaporating wine.
Red
2020 Georges Descombes Morgon
Whole bunch + carbonic maceration + Gamay = Beaujolais seems to be the simple equation here. A little cherry, bonfire ash, a little peppery spice. In the mouth it’s juicy, fleshy, sweetly fruited, pretty cherry, fresh, fruit pure, ashy, and peppery notes lend complexity, slight alcohol warmth on the finish served at 17C-ish is perfect, after about half an hour or so it shows a little volatility. DYA for me.
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Red
2020 Jean-Baptiste Granier Coteaux du Languedoc Les Vignes Oubliées "Autour du Cinsault"
Medium minus intensity aromas show earthy with black hued fruit, spice, a little plummy-ness, and cream, with agitation the spice and plum and joined by a more baked earth note. Juicy initially, then thick, tight plummy tannins, soft grape only tannins, lovely example of a non-interventionist and clean natural wine making. Yum.
Red
2019 Clos Lalfert Vin de France
Exceedingly volatile, smells like my carbonic maceration abortion from earlier this year. FLAW.
Red
2015 Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Cuvée du Peu-Muleau
Pencil shavings and Brett, a smidge of a dark hued fruits, a side order of green capsicum on its way from the kitchen on the nose…Juicy, plenty of tannins, dark hued fruit with the bretty notes, it’s a pleasant but not exceptional Bourgueil…Brett grows with time in the glass
Red
2019 Château Durfort-Vivens La Nature de Durfort-Vivens
Low intensity aromas; a little tar, spice, very muted plum. In the mouth it’s got clay notes, sour acidity, a kind of biscuit quality, plentiful chalky, drying tannins, and a little herbaceous/leafy note here as well. Even if I didn’t know this is Bordeaux it would still be just plain odd.
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Flight 15 - Dinner at Point Rouge (2 notes)
This was recommended based on the strength and relative value of its wine list by a couple of independent sources so Daniel booked us in to have a go with the proviso that, after a long week of tasting and with him having to be out of the door by 8 to get the train to Paris, we would not get too out of hand.
Food matches were Tataki de boeuf, vinaigrette au sésame et oignons cebette and Pâté en croute de veau au foie gras, jeunes pousse de Mesclun with the Clos Rougeard Breze Saumur 2011
And then we drank the Paul Jaboulet La Chapelle 2013 with Côte de bœuf (roughly 1.2kg), pommes de terres grenailles.
After this extravagance we thought it was a good idea to have an Armagnac each (as one does) – I plumped for a pleasing smooth (with a rustic underpin) 1965.
White
2011 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur Blanc Brézé
Citrus, slight herbaceousness, just beginning to show some tertiary notes. Works well with the tataki beef but it’s a bit sharp by itself. Not very impressed by this offering – I would have preferred, at about a quarter of the cost, the Domaine des sables verts les roueres 2020 that I had at Vins Urbains earlier.
Red
2013 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
Sweet black fruits, a little peppery underpin, new oak but they are all operating separately from each other with this bottle. All the band members are there, and they know how to play but not together yet. I wonder (as it's already got 9 years under the belt) whether it will ever come together.
Closing
What a wonderful experience. It was incredible to view the vintage – especially one that was so obviously influenced by viti and vini-culturalists. Good and bad on both banks. The merlot dominant wines showed better than I expected them to but, again on both banks, there was a wonderful sense of freshness and lightness that put me in mind of vintages from 20+ years ago. Oh, the dry whites were pretty good across the board.
This was a great honour and privilege for me. The guys at Ballande were extremely kind and really looked after me – helping me out with a lift from the airport at night on midnight on the Sunday, sorting me out with a sweater, facilitating me getting a tux for the Academie du vin dinner (the latter two because of my lost luggage) and generally being absolutely fantastic.
If I do have the opportunity to do this again there are two very important lessons that I have learnt. Firstly, I think I would take more time over the tasting and make a conscious effort to come early (to avoid the potential catastrophe of the wildcat strike but also to try and squeeze in a couple more negotiant tastings) and taste all the wines more than once. I only had that opportunity with two of the wines and it was extremely beneficial. Secondly, I think that is imperative that I learn something beyond the pidgin French I have currently mastered; it is so beneficial when asking questions of the producers, talking with the negotiants and, well, just not being an ignorant bloody bastard from the other side of the world butchering the small amount of Francais already mastered.