2014 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve

Community Tasting Notes (6) Avg Score: 90.7 points

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  4/20/2022 - originalverkorkt Likes this wine: 92 Points

  A large part of the Blaufränkisch grapes for the Moric Reserve comes from Lutzmannsburg, the rest is spread over the northern Burgenland communities of Zagersdorf and Sankt Georgen. It is the continuation of Blaufränkisch with selections in the vineyards and their specific characteristics in terms of age (27 to 80 year old vines), location and soil. Only the best barrels from these vineyards find their way into the reserve. Majority of the grapes are grown on calcareous sediments - from sandy to extremely clayey consistencies to shell limestone and chalk soils - of the Pannonian Sea. Fermentation was spontaneous and lasted 21 to 28 days in open vats. Then began 24 months of aging in 500- to 2,000-liter barrels. Bottling was done without fining or filtration with small amounts of sulfites.
  
  Intense purple to violet
  
  The 2014 Moric Reserve is just coming into an age where Blaufränkisch is starting to resemble Syrah from the Northern Rhône. What can only be glimpsed in younger Reserve is more pronounced here: violets, a bit of tar, some bresaola, sloes, black olive tapenade and tart notes of black chocolate mingle with traces of lime and an underlying sweetness of ripe cherries.
  
  When it comes to what's at the heart of Moric's, Roland Velich's Blaufränkisch, it's definitely about transparency, the pure and clear in the fruit and rock spice that his wines bring. Over the years, of course, a metarmorphosis takes place in the fruit and spice, and the tannin also changes, becoming finer and silkier. But the clarity and irrepressible freshness inherent in the wines from the beginning remains and manifests itself in this 2014 Moric Reserve. For all the depth of the dark fruit and tannin, reminiscent of a prolonged infusion of black tea and very dark chocolate, the wine vibrates with an almost tonic quality.

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  3/4/2022 - forceberry wrote: 90 Points

  100% organic Blaufränkisch sourced from older vines (25-55 yo) in the Neckenmarkt (80%) Lutzmannsburg (20%) vineyards. Fermented spontaneously in open-top oak fermentors, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged in old, large oak casks ranging from 500-liter demi-muids to 1000-liter foudres. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal SO2. 13% alcohol.
  
  Somewhat translucent blackish-red color. Savory, restrained and somewhat sappy nose with aromas of black peppercorns and herbal spice, some fragrant nuances of dried flowers, a little bit of crunchy crowberry and cranberry, light green nuances of juniper needles, a herbaceous hint of chili powder, a lifted touch of VA and a faint rubbery whiff of reduction. The wine is clean, fresh and subtly green-toned on the palate with a medium body and high-toned flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some earthy tones, a little bit of leafy green character, light sweeter nuances of ripe dark berries, a hint of stony minerality and a crunchy touch of fresh redcurrant. The wine is quite high in acidity and while the tannins come across as pretty light and well-managed, they have sort of gritty, unripe quality to them, making them feel somewhat angular and grippy. The rather long finish is clean, crunchy and slightly grippy with a dry aftertaste of fresh redcurrants, some sappy herbal character, light ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tart cranberry and a sweeter, juicy touch of dark forest fruits.
  
  A nice, fresh and clean Blaufränkisch, but compared to the other three vintages of Blaufränkisch Reserve we tasted (2017, 2016 and 2012), this came across as somewhat lighter and more delicate in body and noticeably less ripe in overall quality. Even though the tannins in these wines are always quite light and friendly, here they felt slightly unripe, prompting people commenting how this wine seemed somewhat more grippy than the other vintages. However, I still wouldn't say this is a particularly tannic wine - just a bit tougher and more angular than the other vintages. Even though this was a bit nimble for a Moric Blaufränkisch, this was still a thoroughly enjoyable effort and a successful example for a Blaufränkisch made in this difficult, cool and damp vintage. Nevertheless, this feels a bit expensive for the quality at 48,62€.

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  4/29/2021 - Arsene Wengert Likes this wine: 89 Points

  In der Nase weißer Pfeffer, Kirsche. Extraktsüße, auskleidendes Tannin, erdig, pure Lakritze, Leder, gute Länge.

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  9/18/2020 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 90 Points

  A private dinner (Restaurant Maris Piper, Amsterdam, NL): This bottle had lost a bit of its lustre and definition. Still good, but not as expressive as I hoped or remembered.

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  4/7/2018 - Xavier Auerbach wrote: 91 Points

  A private lunch (Restaurant Maris Piper, Amsterdam, NL): An exemplary Blaufränkisch, peppery and fresh, ripe red cherries and violets, lovely minerality and precision, silky texture, pure and elegant, gently grippy tannins, harmonious fresh acidity, very good length. Young but already delightful, good future. Drink now - 2024.

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