2005 Wellington Alicante Bouschet Old Vines Noir de Noirs

Community Tasting Notes (2) Avg Score: 91.5 points

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  11/1/2019 - John Dunlap Likes this wine: 92 Points

  This evening’s weather is cold and perfect for a big red. And after all the fires in Sonoma, it will be fun to open and just enjoy an aged rustic wine.
  
  This is my last bottle of this vintage. And like my previous note from 2010, this wine was removed from cellar where it rested since purchase at the winery. Ullage and cork were are in good shape. This time, however, I did decant and it was absolutely necessary. Sediment coated the entire inside of the bottle (which I like to see); yet, it actually made decanting a bit more difficult: one could not see through the neck of the bottle and instead I relied on the run flowing through the decanter to determine when to stop.
  
  The color is no longer as intense as last time; yet, it remains quite dark with a touch of blood red colors, which are more than reasonable given 14 years in the bottle. The other point to make is that this is probably darker and more saturated than any other varietal I’ve tasted at this stage.
  
  Nose and palate express softer elements of red/black raspberry, black plum, and some fun tertiary elements of teriyaki. Not sure the high notes are peony - as was the case last time - but there is a note that does add to a bit of needed lift. Good balance and acidity too.
  
  Really enjoyable as this wine is rich and soft. And if there is a moral to this story, buy a few bottles of Alicante Bouschet (or other teinturiers), put them away, and surprise yourself years later. Enjoyed this evening by serious and novice wine drinkers alike.
  
  PS - 2013 was Wellington's last Alicante Bouschet vintage. Property now owned by VJB Cellars (Kenwood, CA). VJB does not produce an Alicante Bouschet.

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  5/16/2010 - John Dunlap wrote: 91 Points

  This bottle was removed from my cellar where it rested since purchase at the winery. Ullage and cork were in good shape. Did not decant, but probably should have. Color is intense with saturated, dark red hues. Nose expresses elements of rich raspberry, peony, peach, molasses, sour cherry and smoky flavors. A complete smorgasbord of dark fruits.
  
  Flavors of dark raspberry molasses and sour cherry are evident from start to finish. Very rich on the palate and the taste corresponds nicely with the color and nose. After an hour, a bit more tannin shows through as the richness quiets down just a bit - so far so good. Flavors were also good on days two and three, with more evolved fruit flavors and perhaps fewer “high notes.” Surprisingly, no appreciable tannic astringency on the following days. I think the old vine character enhances this wine. Could easily hold off drinking this wine for five more years; nevertheless, right now, it is so enjoyable and so unusual, it is well worth trying. Quite impressive. I should purchase more of this specific old vine production going forward. In addition, for those who seek out the esoteric, this is the varietal for you.
  
  By way of background, this wine is a blend of four teinturiers (grape varieties with colored juice) from Wellington’s estate vineyard and the neighboring Pagani Ranch. In particular, this vintage is predominantly Alicante Bouschet (84%)* blended with Lenoir (12%), Grand Noir (3%) and Petite Bouschet (1%). The vines are 99 to 120 years old. 14.5% alcohol and 3.5 pH. Production: 256 cases. Release date: October 2006.
  
  Winery notes state: “…the Pagani Ranch Alicante crop was very light – less than half the production of 2003 or 2004. As a result, this wine is bigger and richer than the previous two vintages, just bursting with fresh grape aroma and flavor. Ripe berry fruit aromas, chocolate, lots of spice. Thick, viscous and full of jammy, sweet tasting fruit. Still the wine you drink with a fork! Regular Gold medal winner at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Silver medal San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition 2/07.”
  
  * Alicante Bouschet (Portugal) and Garnacha Tintorera (Spain) is a hybrid grape that can produce deep dark wines, with spice, rich fruit and a gentle earthiness. Its thick skin and deep color make it useful for blending with light red wine. Apparently when pressed, it is one of the few varietals that possess red rather than clear juice. This varietal is found in Portugal (Alentejo region), Spain (Almansa, Manchuela and Jumilla appellations), France, Australia, and North Africa/Israel.

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