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View From the Cellar

Vinous

  • By Josh Raynolds
    Oregon: An Embarrassment of Riches and Richness (Jun 2019), 6/1/2019, (See more on Vinous...)

    (Goodfellow Family Cellars Pinot Noir Whistling Ridge Vineyard Oregon Red) Login and sign up and see review text.

Full Pull

  • By Paul Zitarelli
    Full Pull Goodfellow, 3/18/2019

    (Goodfellow Pinot Noir Whistling Ridge Vineyard) Hello friends. The last few years here at Full Pull have proven a trove of Pinot delights. The latest treats come from a winery that’s new to us—but a winemaker who has become a favorite in many Willamette Valley circles. Marcus Goodfellow is probably best known to many of our list members as the man behind Matello Winery. He launched Matello in 2002 after he spent time working with the folks at Evesham Wood and Westrey, and for the first few years, he made his own wine tucked away in a little corner at Westrey (good place for wine-knowledge osmosis!). He then moved to a co-op facility, and then his own facility in 2011. In 2014, he launched Goodfellow Family Cellars. Marcus’ winemaking has long been praised, but his eponymous label allows him to take a step further and focus singularly on his passion for unique, beautiful vineyard sites. He is a stickler for conscientious farming, only working with non-irrigated, sustainably farmed grapes from growers he knows and trusts. Today, we have three single-vineyard bottlings for you, all sourced from different vineyards that Marcus works with. This may only be a snapshot of his winery, but it illustrates the sheer talent that exists behind the helm of this project—and what that talent can do with thoughtfully farmed grapes. This is among the most impressive lineups we’ve tasted out of Oregon in the past year or two—one that once we tasted, we had no choice but to offer. I truly hope you all enjoy these as much as we do. And finally, Whistling Ridge Vineyard. This site sits in the Ribbon Ridge AVA, roughly 1.2 miles north of Beaux Frères Vineyard, and was planted in 1990. Its sedimentary soils and placement at the top of a 450 ft. ridge create singular vineyard-designated wines. (Marcus actually makes two different bottlings from this site.) The slight south-east aspect along the ridge allows for cool evening breezes, while the shallow soils force the roots to grow deep in search of nutrients. The results are both refined and deeply structured. 2016 provided a vibrant juiciness to the Goodfellow lineup that paired well with many of their vineyard sites. In particular, it complements Whistling Ridge’s natural structure splendidly. This wine spent 20 months in French oak and clocks in at 13.4% listed alcohol. It is a wonderful comparison to the Fir Crest bottling. While the house style is evident and consistent, Whistling Ridge has a savory element that’s out of this world. The nose showcases red and black fruit, but the stars here are the notes of herbaceous savories, freshly packed Oregon dirt, knife-cracked peppercorns, and garam masala. The palate doesn’t disappoint—it’s a complicated layering of fruit, earth, and spice, interwoven with immense depth and structure.

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