Late 2011 disgorgement. Yellow, mild mousse. Wonderful ginger and citrus aromatics. Medium weight but deeply flavored with tremendous acidity and fine stoniness. This held up and evolved beautifully over 3 hours and more than stood up to a wide array of dishes.
A private dinner (Restaurant De Echoput, Hoog Soeren, Netherlands): A blend of Avize, Cramant and Oger from three consecutive (but undisclosed) vintages, disgorged 15 January 2007. Rich and vinous, mature but certainly not as oxidative as might perhaps be expected after more than eight years of post-disgorgement ageing; like a powerful and mature (but chalky) white Burgundy, a quite unique approach of the Champagne theme.
Decidedly toasty and doughy nose with round baked apple pie fruit. Big and toasty on the palate. There is freshness and lift, but this is a big, dense and concentrated bubbly. Excellent, a Champagne that is better with food than as an aperitif.
Sunday Dinner at Formento's (Chicago, IL): Disgorged December 24, 2013 (they work at Christmastime?). 33,000 bottles produced each year. Extremely dense and powerful, with a nutty, bready note, and pronounced salinity. There's a huge baked apple component as well. You gotta be a fan of the style (I am). This finishes off with a fair bit of chalkiness. The last glass of this was best though. These wines truly benefit from extended air.
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(NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale) Light golden color with steady, tiny bubbles; oxidative, manzanilla, vaguely smoky nose; tasty, elegant, tart lemon, oxidative, mineral palate; long finish (based on '06, '05 & '04 vintages)
(NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale) Light golden yellow color with few, steady, tiny bubbles; oxidative, fino sherry, oxidized apple, toasted almond, light honeysuckle nose; tight, fino sherry, very tart apple, mineral palate with steely, medium-plus acidity; medium-plus finish 91+ points (disgorged 12/1/11; great pairing with smoked salmon and other smoked fish)
(NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale) Light lemon yellow color with abundant tiny bubbles; lightly oxidized apple, chalk, mineral nose; tasty, tart apple, tart lemon, mineral palate with scintillating acidity; medium-plus finish (disgorged April 24, 2012)
(NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale) Light golden yellow color; lightly oxidized, rock salt, baked lemon, tart apple nose; tasty, light footed, rock salt, very minerally, quinine, very tart apple palate; medium-plus finish
(NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Initiale) Light golden yellow color; intriguing nose, a little oxidative, very tart kumquat, lemon peel, hazelnut nose; nutty, sherried, tart lemon, mineral palate with depth and grip, and a ginger note that develops with air; long finish
(NV Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Brut Initiale, Champagne, France) This classic Blanc de Blancs is hands down the most memorable white wine I have tried this year. Not knowing what to expect, I discovered depth and power. I am still reeling from the finish, so delicate yet persistent, without becoming rapacious. As a personal indulgence for special moments—birthdays or holidays, with family and friends—this is a perfect choice. The wine is assembled from three vintages and aged two years before disgorgement. Sommelier's Choice: Top Releases of 2009
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