2007 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône Rosé

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  12/15/2008, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Charvin Rose (Cotes du Rhone)) UPDATE: Jean Bourdy/Blue Hill The Bourdy event is now in the rear-view mirror and it was one of the more important of my career - not just for the wine and food but for the divergent opinions on what had transpired and the educational exercise that will never be duplicated. Even the professional journalists were starting from scratch with Bourdy so it was an exciting night all around. I want to personally thank all of the attendees that traveled from every corner of the globe to experience this once in a lifetime event. My sincere gratitude to Jean Francois Bourdy, who's gracious presentation of his family's tradition, stories and wine will forever be imprinted in my memory. Blue Hill did a lovely job in a non-traditional sense and they certainly stuck their necks out to give many different flavors and textures a chance at pairing with Bourdy's wine. As an example, they served one wine with nothing but a small dish of pecans that had just been roasted only seconds before - a classic match for Bourdy but not the norm in fine dining. Subtlety and superlative raw materials are their hallmark and while many in attendance may not have realized it took almost three months for them to create, cure and present an array of charcuterie that was hand made from their own livestock, it was appreciated nonetheless. I believe we were presented with 12-15 "food" courses but I lost count somewhere around the 1911 Blanc... Bourdy graced us with 30+ vintages of red and white wine, plus one dessert offering. It was a staggering array of historic significance and the comments on the wine were divided in half from "absolute swill" to "beyond heavenly" and there was little in-between. Half of the room thought it was the most significant tasting they had ever been a part of and half though it was complete rubbish - nearly every attendee had an astute palate so the opposite opinions were even more interesting (something I predicted before the tasting). Certain vintages of Bourdy can be very difficult to taste and analyze under any circumstance (due to piercing and shrill acidities) but Jean-Francois Bourdy did not run from this just to impress our group - he presented everything for education's sake, and that is certainly what transpired - for his candor, I thank him. Two of the wines saw their final day on Saturday night - the 1895 and the 1865 were the last of the stock that remained (there is another bottle of 1895 but it will go into a French museum next week, never to be uncorked). The fact that multiple wars, occupations and various other potential traumas could have removed the possibility of this tasting decades ago, the room was more than cognizant of their presence during something very special. I was in charge of opening one of the 1895s in front of the crowd and, with a trembling hand, attempted to keep thoughts of 110 years of history at bay simply for composure's sake - with the 1865, a wine crafted during the rule of Napoleon III, the room was silent as the first breath emerged from a bottle that had witnessed 140 years of the earth's evolution. I would argue the 1865 Chateau Chalon took a far more leisurely pace toward maturity than our frenetic globe did during the same time period. Was the wine intact? As Jean Francois took his first sip in front of the hushed room, he said goodbye to a member of his family and a part of his homeland's history - with that he proudly announced a line that summed up the entire tasting: "Who would have known?...we opened it too early"... Blue Hill at Stone Barns, December 13th, 2008 - The History of Jean Bourdy: We tasted... 2004 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc (100% Chardonnay) 1992 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1985 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1971 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1966 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1962 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1953 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1946 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1945 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1934 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 1911 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2004 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge (Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Poulsard) 1990 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1979 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1967 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1959 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1955 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1952 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1947 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1945 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 1926 Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Rouge 2000 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon (100% Savignin) 1979 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1964 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1962 Jean Bourdy Vin Jaune 1952 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1942 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1934 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1928 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon 1895 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon (pre-Phylloxera) 1865 Jean Bourdy Chateau-Chalon (pre-Phylloxera) 2000 Galant des Abbesses (dessert wine) My opinion on the evening and its result reinforces the belief that wine-lovers who seek to challenge themselves, regardless of outcome, walk away with a better understanding of not only wine but of the world around them. Those that close their mind to something even before they taste it, remain closed to more than just wine. For both of these reasons, I will continue to remain open, optimistic and forever observant of our wondrous hobby as it continues to present me (and subsequently our customer base) with opportunities for enlightenment - even if that enlightenment ends up in the spit bucket. I will have more formal notes over the holiday when I am able to dedicate the requisite time to something this significant. What a night. - Jon Rimmerman ************************************************ Grab Bag Dear Friends, For something different, we start the week with a stocking-stuffer mentality - a number of super bargains that I believe are more than worthy of your interest. All have arrived and will be available for local pick up in a few weeks (probably the week between Christmas and New Year's) - you can throw darts below (for the price) and walk away with everyday wine of character that should add emphasis to your day rather than detract - the Burgundy's are especially well-priced and all should be competitive with the tarrif in their homeland. ONE PARCEL ONLY at the listed prices 2006 Collotte Marsannay "Champsalomon" If you enjoy Bourgogne Rouge, why not try this high-end Marsannay instead? Yes, it's 2006 but all of need something to enjoy while our 2005's mature and this is priced for guilt-free experimentation. From one of the up and coming pioneers in the far northern reaches of Burgundy proper, just south of Dijon and just north of Gevrey, this is a fantastic price (this is not the Cuvee de Noble Souche). In essence, you have real top-end Burgundy for the price of a grocery store domestic Pinot Noir - enough said. To give you an idea of the style, here's David Schildknecht's review of Collotte's 2005 Marsannay Vielles Vignes, from various parcels of old-vine fruit (the Vielles Vignes is considered third in line behind the Clos de Jeu and Champsalomon). Keep in mind, this is heavy granite soil which means more deft mineral and cool-toned perception: 2006 Collotte Marsannay "le Clos de Jeu" Ditto - an even crazier price - - Clos de Jeu for this price? Definitely not the norm. 2007 Marc Plouzeau Chinon "Rive Gauche" This is super-pure and delightful, perfect for Monday night enjoyment 2007 Sarabelle Gaillac Tradition Blanc sec Another lovely Monday night wine of terroir from 100% old-vine Mauzac 2007 Charvin Rose (Cotes du Rhone) A light pressing of Charvin's Grenache with assorted Rhone varietals added for good measure - this wine has more tannin than you may expect and it's almost considered a serious wine in its own right (although still a southern rose'). Laurent Charvin does not produce anything less than his best effort - you can look up TNs for the 2006 and add even more depth for 2007. This is $9.99 certainly well spent... 2006 Kahurangi Sauvignon Blanc Nelson (New Zealand) New Zealand estate Sauvignon Blanc for $9.99? Not as piquant as Loire Sauvignon, this wine has a residual element that makes it quite appealing to a wide audience. 100% estate fruit. 2006 Holloran Pinot Noir Willamette Valley "Holloran" This is not the second label Stafford Hill bottling - this is the real thing - another crazy price for domestic Pinot Noir of actual character and charm. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg4410 Burg4420 Burg4430 SOFR7580 Rhone7189 NZ9330 OR9110