Celebrating Again! (Ngaio, Wellington, New Zealand): A rare privilege to drink what may well be a 100-year wine. At the age of 24, this is still so tightly wound and primary, although there is also plenty of bottle age apparent - it's just developing at a glacial pace!
Dense purple, and (still) in a monolithic phase. So massive, and so expressive of Syrah - the blackberry fruit and black pepper notes are classic, but they are all still subsumed in a structure of huge and primary dimension. The nose develops very well over the evening, showing a variety of nuance, but they are simply hints of what will eventual come once the wine hits its ultimate expression.
It is less-open than the regular cuvee - riper, richer, and very much in an opulent cult style, but it does not sacrifice the expression of terroir in favour of ripeness and intensity. It is less opaque tha it showed eight years ago, but I suspect that with this style of wine making, the transparency will come in (a long) time. Almost the definition of vin de garde.
A very great wine and a privilege to drink, but I imagine its apex of perfection is between 10 and 20 years in the future!
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From a 3L to count it several hours in advance. Very dense, dusty nose. Dark fruit, charcuterie, smoke, but with hints of red fruit overtime. Smooth and harmonious on the palate.
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Bottle 1903/2450. The bottle was a direct allocation. Perfect provenance. I have to agree with dchain and jeff leve on this wine. Bottle was slow oxed at 12pm and served at 9, alongside the 98 Cathelin. Nose showed animal, musk and violets. On the palate, it was thin with a sense of under-ripeness. While it did not improve with air, it actually slowly faded as the night progressed. Totally killed by the 98 Cathelin. Its underwhelming. A poor representation for this cuvee. And extremely overpriced for what it is.
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Have to agree with Jeff that this is a surprisingly acidic with some underlying unripeness intermingled with the ripe fruit. Feels a bit astringent and maybe needs more time but at these prices it should be profound and yet it isn’t.
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3/23/2024 - Marc wrote: 97 Points
Celebrating Again! (Ngaio, Wellington, New Zealand): A rare privilege to drink what may well be a 100-year wine. At the age of 24, this is still so tightly wound and primary, although there is also plenty of bottle age apparent - it's just developing at a glacial pace!
Dense purple, and (still) in a monolithic phase. So massive, and so expressive of Syrah - the blackberry fruit and black pepper notes are classic, but they are all still subsumed in a structure of huge and primary dimension. The nose develops very well over the evening, showing a variety of nuance, but they are simply hints of what will eventual come once the wine hits its ultimate expression.
It is less-open than the regular cuvee - riper, richer, and very much in an opulent cult style, but it does not sacrifice the expression of terroir in favour of ripeness and intensity. It is less opaque tha it showed eight years ago, but I suspect that with this style of wine making, the transparency will come in (a long) time. Almost the definition of vin de garde.
A very great wine and a privilege to drink, but I imagine its apex of perfection is between 10 and 20 years in the future!
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11/2/2023 - johnh1001 wrote: 92 Points
From a 3L to count it several hours in advance. Very dense, dusty nose. Dark fruit, charcuterie, smoke, but with hints of red fruit overtime. Smooth and harmonious on the palate.
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9/10/2022 - Collector1855 wrote: 92 Points
200 Burgundy Grand Crus from vintage 2000, 4-day blind tasting (Singapore): Pirate bottle. Really dense and acidic, demanding tannins, good aromas, clean and precise but too tannic at age 22 for a higher score.
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1/31/2020 - Burgnick wrote: 90 Points
Bottle 1903/2450. The bottle was a direct allocation. Perfect provenance. I have to agree with dchain and jeff leve on this wine. Bottle was slow oxed at 12pm and served at 9, alongside the 98 Cathelin. Nose showed animal, musk and violets. On the palate, it was thin with a sense of under-ripeness. While it did not improve with air, it actually slowly faded as the night progressed. Totally killed by the 98 Cathelin. Its underwhelming. A poor representation for this cuvee. And extremely overpriced for what it is.
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11/8/2019 - dchain wrote: 91 Points
Have to agree with Jeff that this is a surprisingly acidic with some underlying unripeness intermingled with the ripe fruit. Feels a bit astringent and maybe needs more time but at these prices it should be profound and yet it isn’t.
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