2005 Fattoria Cabanon Oltrepò Pavese Boisée

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/17/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (CABANON Bonarda Boisee) Boisee Dear Friends, If you are even remotely interested in Barolo and Barbaresco (or more appropriately, the very best Barbera), you will be very happy to pass this elixir over your eager palate. It is downright fantastic and needs to be consumed by those intent on learning about all things vinous Italian (or by those that have become bored with the same old 1989 Collina Rionda red label every night). I was skeptical but not anymore... This wine reaches above the laugh out loud stage, it aims to make the taster giddy with one of the more impressive natural red wines being produced in Italy (the giddiness is not from alcohol, it is only 13.0-13.5%). First and foremost, the 2005 Cabanon bears little resemblance to the regular Bonarda bottlings of the past. Gone are the pre-aged characteristics in favor of neon red/purple and young, pent-up natural extraction that is half mountainside and half fruit (the minerality in this layered beverage is memorable to say the least). In the wild Oltrepo Pavese (next door to Piedmont), anything goes and this woman-owned winery is the leading producer of organic red wines made in a style for long-term ageing (despite relatively low prices). I've heard this wine described as Gigondas meets Gaja and, while I can see the analogy, it retains a character that is unique to Bonarda grown in this soil. From very old vines that have never witnessed a drop of chemical interference or pesticides of any kind, this wine will serve notice that Bonarda is a varietal to be taken seriously by aficionados or by anyone looking for top-level Italian wine under $25. High-toned Barbaresco fans (tired of escalating prices) will find this rich, nuanced and complex example surprising to say the least - think vibrant red fruit mixed with crushed rock and something like 2004 Sottimano Cotta and you will be close. It kept my attention well into the night the first time I tried it and my second encounter (last night) was no different. This special riserva bottling (the 5-star Boisee) is only produced in the very best years and (for what it is - price/value/rarity) it is one of the most impressive Italian wins on the market. If you missed out on the Corvitis a few weeks ago, this wine will give you similar insight (with the oldest organic and biodynamic winery in Italy as your guide). VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - only 50 cases for the entire US: 2005 Cabanon Bonarda "Boisee" (riserva/5 star) Oltrepo Pavese (this is not the Vivace which is a sparkling wine - also, be sure your Boisee has the five stars on the front label, not just the plain Boisee label) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy7811