Burg Night in Tokyo (Cote d'Or): Light old burg red well along the path toward brown, but without any cracking at the edges. Nothing in appearance to suggest anything but very full maturity. Nose has a huge dose of VA, not quite varnishy but enough to obscure almost any other notes. The VA never entirely blows off, but after ten or fifteen minutes subsides enough to let other notes come out. Then, for about thirty minutes, the wine is very, very pretty but has lost the complexity and brightness on the nose that it must once have had. Nowhere to be found are the sweet tea and mushroom one I often finds on the nose of such wines. The dominant notes of the nose are a little sweet cherry, some plum tart, and just a little sous bois. On the palate, during the wine’s short window of grace, is a hint of tannin turned to faded tea, a tiny bit of brandy in which cherries have been macerated, and occasional surprising stabs of brighter cherry. And then the wine topples gently but suddenly over the hill, leaving camphor and the melancholy sweet smell of Miss Havisham’s house. Despite all that, I really enjoy drinking faded beauties like this. I also think this may not have been the best bottle and others may have held together better. In any case, drink up.
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