Drouhin Laroze, M. Ilan, old Sauternes & Ports

Last night I met up with some friends to drink some wines from Drouhin Laroze. John V put this tasting together to revisit this producer and compare vintages 08, 09 and 10. It was a great tasting and a lot of fun. I haven't had much experience with this producer, and it was nice to put their wines into some context. For my tastes, I like 09 but prefer 10. I will stay away from 08, just not what I want to be drinking. The wines were consumed non-blind over the course of 2.5 hours. John split the wines into flights.

I threw in the Maison Ilan (blind) as no one there had had the opportunity to try one of Ray's wines. I think everyone liked it very much.

• 2008 Henri Boillot Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Golden in color. The nose has lemon cream, vanilla and a slight mushroom note. It starts out flat but picks up acidity thru the midpalate and finish. Nice tart grapefruits. There is some complexity as it unwinds. Nice clean finish.

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• 2009 Maison Ilan Charmes-Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  We opened this as a starter and my score was 91. Going back to it after the tasting, the wine had really opened up more and I raised my score. Ruby/purple in color. The nose is nice with cherries and some dry dirt/funk notes. Very soft quality made some question how long it will last, but I think those are different qualities. Creamy texture. Long, clean finish. I think this was good now, but will improve in a cellar for a while.

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• 2009 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Ruby in color. Light nose. Some confectionary sugar, some cherries. It starts of sweet on the palate. Cherries. This one left me wanting a bit. Nothing wrong, but just needs more.

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• 2009 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  The groups fav in this flight although I liked the 10 better. Purple/ruby in color. The nose is big with cherries and a warmth to it (like a cabin with a big fire going). Ripe fruit. Cherries and red apples. With air some tannins came out. This is a big ripe wine, something the 09's had in common.

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• 2010 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  I preferred the 10 over the 09, but most thought it needed more time. Pale ruby in color. Light cherries on the nose. With air, this got a bit deeper, but next to the 09, the nose suffered. On the palate, however, this is deep and complex. Layers of tight cherries and dried forest floor. Nice acidity. Long finish. Kept unwinding beautifully in the glass. Very pretty.

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• 2008 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Ruby in color. The nose has some cherries and not much depth. On the palate, there are some cherries here but also a green vegetal note. It did not improve a lot with air. It is a fine enough Pinot for drinking, but I expected more complexity from a Grand Cru.

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• 2009 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

  OTOH, I thought this rocked above my expectations. Ruby/purple in color. The nose is full with cherries, some cherry liqueur and a bit of damp forest floor notes. Nice texture. Cherries and the liqueur notes continue to the palate bringing some heat as well. In spite of that, this is delicious and drinking well right now. It did get better as the night went on.

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• 2010 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Latricières-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Light ruby in color. The nose is nice and complex. Cherries, some dry earth. On the palate, this is layered tightly but evolves in the glass. Cherries and some funk. Someone said feminine, but it was to me, just not as exuberant. I think this is headed somewhere nice, but quite good today.

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• 2008 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Ruby/purple in color, slightly flat. Cherries layered with dried leaves on the nose. On the palate, tart acidity. Cherries with a bit of heat. Long finish. This shows some complexity but not in the class of 09 or 10 IMO.

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• 2009 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Ruby/purple in color. The nose is ripe cherries of all kind, perhaps a bit of candy. Great texture. Lots of cherries layered on the palate. Plenty of depth. Long finish. This is a great wine and improved all night long.

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• 2010 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Wow. This is one of the best Burgundies I have had. Really special. Ruby/purple in color. The nose starts off tight but develops with cherries and warm wet forest floor notes. Really layered and deep. On the palate, this has that seamless quality only the best wines have. From the attack to the finish, there is no break. Layered, complex. Love to see where this goes from here. Outstanding.

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• 1949 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  This was one amazing wine. Clearly a great bottle. Orange gold in color. Wonderful nose. Orange peels, some honey, some sea air. Complex. Great viscous texture. Slightly sweet at this point. Layered complexity on the palate too. Orange rind, oranges, dried peaches. Long finish. Really special.

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• 1963 Fonseca Porto Vintage 95 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Ruby in color. The nose is gorgeous with raisins and milk chocolate. Complex. On the palate, slightly sweet. Complex and easy to drink. A touch of heat. Very pretty wine still chugging along.

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• 1966 Fonseca Porto Vintage Flawed

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Ruby/purple in color. Sadly this was corked. That said, under the TCA, this would have been an amazing wine. Much bigger and more youthful than the 63. Has everything going on and that is with muted fruit. A shame.

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Thank John. Nice to see everyone and hope to do it again.