David's 1999 Côtes de Nuits 1er Cru, Village by Village Horizontal

The final in a trilogy of 1999 retrospectives, the first two covering the premières crus of the Côtes de Beaune. Wines were served in Riedel Chianti glasses and would have benefited from being served much cooler.

• 1999 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru La Perrière Blanc 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  A pinot blanc derivation and very enjoyable, this starts with a buttery shortbread and strawberry character. Something floral too, lilies? Peppery, broad palate. Real minerality too.

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• 1999 Domaine Joliet Fixin 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru

  Slightly corked, I think, although not horrendously so. Something funky on the nose for sure. Otherwise some gamey interest. Palate a little short.

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• 1999 Domaine Guy & Yvan Dufouleur Fixin 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru

  Oaky nose, forest floor some very subtle Bakewell notes. Later some freshly sliced mushroom. Beyond these aromas which dominate the nose also has a sweet / umami thing going on at the intersection of Worcestershire sauce and HP sauce. Palate a little tight. Decent.

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• 1999 Domaine Bertagna Vougeot 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru

  Plum and mulled spice nose, later some blueberries a spot of polish and some cranberry juice tartness. Palate compact but not as drying as some. Later some sweet cherry comes through. Good effort by 4th favourite of the night.

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• 1999 Mongeard-Mugneret Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru

  Paler with initially some trodden tomato, red fruits too with a twist of ground white pepper. Later a faint citrus notes like someone has dropped a pipette of grapefruit juice into the glass. Sweet, lightweight and modern. Palate has some savoury, meary notes with some bright fruit. A tad clunky.

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• 1999 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Reduced nose to start with lots of dissolved CO2. Some celery stick later some old school slightly sweet date spiciness comes through. Palate a little short and out of balance for me.

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• 1999 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  Slow out of the blocks but when it does emerge there is a high pedigree wine here. Some beef carpaccio in basil oil. Some white pepper and pineapple stalk too. Palate starts fairly tight but opens up, real depth. Good but not mind blowing.

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• 1999 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  On pouring in addition to the red fruits there is subtle sweetness that reminds me of childhood grilled ripe banana with brown sugar, with air some lovely tertiary autumn leaves and some crushed walnut emerges. Something meaty and in the aniseed spectrum, reminds me of crumbled Camisa fennel sausages. Palate, like a few others, a little short and one dimensional. Final sip has a subtle raspberry jam sweetness to it.

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• 1999 Daniel Moine-Hudelot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Flawed - not poured.

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• 1999 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Muscular and dark fruited, a lovely tart / sweet / sour kumquat character, later some star anise emerges. Palate is dark fruited and peppery, really interesting nose leaning towards rosehip puree. Yum. My 3rd favourite wine of the night.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Roncières 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Nose has sous bois, red currants and a clove / candied orange zest that reminds me of a hot cross bun. Once again takes time to show much on the palate but some spicy interest in time, tannins fine and correct.

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• 1999 Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Iodine and brine on the nose here. Some almond puree too and Morello cherry. Palate is classing and giving (phew!) spicy and perfectly balanced. My wine of the night. Cracking.

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• 1999 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Leafy blackcurrants and a sweetness that nods to hazelnut praline. Palate is bracing with a cherry squash character. With air it pulls itself together to a degree but doesn't move me.

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• 1999 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Nose has a saline caper quality with some icing sugar dusted blueberries. Later some lemon and lime sherbet boiled sweets in the distance. Palate once more not the most giving with some tartness on pouring that resolves a little.

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• 1999 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brulées 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  This opens with a quince jelly sweetness that complements the sliced plums providing the fruit interest. There is some talcum powder too and some redcurrants. With time a hint of classy Montelimar nougat as well. Palate has more of the fruits above but doesn't quite deliver what the nose suggests. My second wine of the night.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Deeper, darker and more brooding that the Engel. There is some polishes walnut dresser and cherry fruits. Palate shorter than one would hope.

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What a terrific evening, some amazing wines and fabulous food to accompany.