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Twenty Bottles of ('08 and '09) Beaujolais on the Wall

Arlequin Wines, San Francisco

Tasted November 18, 2010 by drwine2001 with 891 views

Introduction

A defiant, anti-Beaujolais Nouveau event

Flight 1 (20 notes)

Red
2008 Julien Sunier Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Lots of stone and soil but enough ripeness of fruit to balance. Pretty nice and one of the better '08s.
Red
2008 Julien Sunier Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Leaner with higher acid and less fruit than the Fleurie. Unappealing.
Red
2009 Julien Sunier Régnié France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Régnié
The overly concentrated, overly sweet end of '09 Beaujolais. Very ripe and candied, but it has a licorice twist for some interest. Too heavy.
Red
2009 Julien Sunier Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Finer and more floral and lacy than the Regnie. The best of the 4 Sunier wines.
Red
2008 Guy Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Vegetal and dilute. Shows the worst of the vintage.
Red
2009 Domaine de la Voute des Crozes Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Dark color, deep rich fruit. Impressive mouthful even if simple at present. Tasted after an anemic '08, this was pretty striking.
Red
2008 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Sulfur, thin, astringent. Yuck.
Red
2009 Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Sappy, vinous, and seductive with some greener tones to add complexity. One of my top 2 wines tonight.
Red
2009 Marcel Lapierre Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Tasted after the Thevenet, this is less weighty, more fine grained, backward, and pungent. This is the wrong order in which to pour these since it makes the Lapierre appear less generous than it really is on its own.
Red
2009 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Anise and blackberry with good amplitude and much less bite and austerity than this bottling can show in less generous years.
Red
2008 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Magnum. Much lighter color and weight than the '09. Dry, acidic, and deficient in fruit.
Red
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais Cuvée l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Light, great purity, liveliness and typicity. Dynamite entry level wine.
Red
2009 Damien Coquelet Beaujolais-Villages France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Fragrant, light, elegant, and zippy. Like the Brun Ancien, a terrific basic cuvee.
Red
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Côte de Brouilly France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
The densest and ripest of the Brun wines with ripe cherry fruit and a long, pungent finish. Not the epitome of elegance but very good.
Red
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Morgon France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Brown spices. Lighter, less ripe style than the Cote de Brouilly with a strong squirt of acidity thrown in at the end to lift it a bit.
Red
2009 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Fleurie France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Still a step finer, lacier, and more elegant than the Morgon. This whole range from Brun is impressive, and each wine expresses its terroir and personality beautifully.
Red
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Pure red fruit, some green elements, surprising finishing sap gives the wine more palate presence than the light entry suggests.
Red
2009 Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
A big step up from the regular cuvee in concentration, soil, and tannin. Here the fruit clearly veers toward blackberry. At the top of the heap for me along with the Thevenet, but completely different, much more foreboding, serious style that begs for time rather than sliding down effortlessly now.
Red
2008 Georges Descombes Brouilly Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly
Not really well sequenced after the Roilette Tardive as this is back to more typical, wispy weight. Floral with anise notes and a tart finish. Like all of the '08s tasted tonight, the fruit is a little muted, but good wine nonetheless.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Beaujolais FRV 100 Rosé France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Piquant strawberry scented sparkler, moderately sweet. Gulpable and a fun way to finish the tasting.

Closing

Pitting '08s versus '09s is a tough proposition for the earlier vintage. Although several individual wines excelled, the consistency of quality in the Terres Dorees wines left me particularly excited about that producer.

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