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Achim's Magnum Tasting 2016

Berens am Kai 1 star Restaurant

Tasted December 15, 2016 by aquacongas with 724 views

Introduction

A great wine lover organized again his famous Best Bottle Magnum at Berens am Kai in Düsseldorf. Most bottles were from Bordeaux, the flights were blind

Flight 1 - White Wines (2 notes)

The Starter, very young Mosel Riesling and an extra bottle from Peter Michael, only 120 magnums made, I guessed a little bit older

White - Off-dry
1994 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
From magnum
very light, some Petrol, tropical fruits, still fresh, never would the age, nice start in the magnum event
White
2009 Peter Michael Chardonnay Cuvée Indigene USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
93 points
From magnum
Drank blindly,nose was typical for a Californian Chardonnay, Vanilleä, ripebaken bananas, oak well integrated, not overtoasted, powerful body maybe a hint too much alcohol, some Ron Zacapa finish, nice acidity, good with food, 93-94

Flight 2 - Old Pomerols (2 notes)

A great Vieux Certan

Red
1945 Château Gazin Pomerol France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
93 points
From Magnum,
drank it together with Vieux Certan 1955.
This wine shows more aging signs than his flight partner,from the nose it was burgundy than BX, some mushrooms,extract sweetness, one-dimensional in the finish, some licorice and a hint of lovage, middle long aftertaste, passed his peak, 93-94
Red
1955 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
97 points
From Magnum
Caramell, red cooked fruits (not in an overripe way), no oxidation signs, licorice, cigar box, black tea after half hour,long clean finish after cassis and cherries, precise and refreshing, 97-98
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)

Flight 3 (2 notes)

An unbelievable HB and a brutal young Palmer 1983

Red
1953 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
98 points
From magnum
For me one of the wines of the evening, so fresh and so vital, drank it together with 1983 Palmer. It was not clear which was the younger wine. I exaggerate it a little bit but a great extract sweetness, spicy, pencil, essence of cassis,leather, tobacco leaves, 98-99
Red
1983 Château Palmer France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
95 points
From Magnum,
much tooy oung even after three hours of double decantation, closed, primary notes, cassis, cedar, present and firm tannins, needs many years to show his grace, I cant rate, let's say 95++

Flight 4 - Montrose (2 notes)

Red
1959 Château Montrose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
95 points
From Magnum,
Beat the 1961 Montrose in this flight, very accessible, sweet cherries, salty and refreshing minerality, well balanced, the finish is elegant and middle long
Red
1961 Château Montrose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
93 points
From magnum
this time not so strong as last year, the nose is a little bit reluctant and austere, the tannins feel ripe but not very accessible, you could think it was a cold years and not that hot as 1961 was

Flight 5 - 1970 battle (2 notes)

My WOTN

Red
1970 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
99 points
a masterpiece, a giant from magnum,
still primary fruit notes, minimal secundary and tertiary notes, a black currant bomb, fine and firm tannins, great acidity backbone, very enjoyable now but will be pleasant over the next 30 years, three hours of double decantation was not enough, 99+
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1970 Château Lafleur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
94 points
From Magnum
A little bit dusty, discreet fruit notes, getting better with time, red berries and black currant, no chance against Lator 1970 from same bottle size

Flight 6 - The American beauties (2 notes)

A phenomenal Martha's Vineyard

Red
1975 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon Martha's Vineyard USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
99 points
From magnum
The sister of the famous 74 Martha. At the same level
Cherry coke, mint, eucalyptus, cassis, fresh, young, ripe chewy tannins, great californian cab
Red
1974 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Mountain USA, California
96 points
From magnum,
very strong but his flight fellow (Martha 1975) was epic, typical cal Cab, refreshing acidity, more reluctant, black currnat, mint and cherry in the long finish, reached his peak for me, but no hurry in finishing all bottles, 95-96

Flight 7 - The "Undrinkable" Ones (2 notes)

Wait at least 10 more years or decant 24hours

Red
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
97 points
From magnum
the bottle was from a perfect cellar, so the bottle was even after 4 hours of decantation too closed and firm, you feel the power and the graceness but the beauty is hidden behind the structure and tannins of the wine, the same for the Latour 1982 from MG, 97-100, will survive at least 30 more years
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
97 points
From magnum
the bottle was from a perfect cellar, so the bottle was even after 4 hours of decantation too closed and firm, you feelthe power the graceness but the beauty is hidden behind the structure and tannins of the wine, the same for the Mouton 1982 from MG, 97-100, will survive at least 30 more years
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 8 - Merlot is dominating (2 notes)

Red
1988 Château Lafleur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
96 points
From magnum
fresher and younger Masseto 1989 in the same flight, ripe tannins, nice extract sweetness, no hurry to drink it nowadays
Red
1989 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
95 points
From magnum,
Drank it blind, better than expected, a reluctant shy wine from Tuscany with 12,5% alcohol, nice fine cherry notes, very balanced, at the end of his peak, 94-95

Flight 9 - The Classics (2 notes)

Red
1989 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
98 points
From magnum,
much too young, it is like drinking a five year old Bordeaux, the cassis notes are overlayed at this stage,I think it is much more fun to drink it from regular bottle, the same level as LMHB 1990 in the same flight, will last at least the next 30 years
Red
1990 Château La Mission Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
97 points
much too young, it is like drinking a five year old Bordeaux, the cassis notes are overlayed at this stage,I think it is much more fun to drink it from regular bottle, the same level as HB 1989 in the same flight, will last at least the next 30 years

Flight 10 - Some more 1982 Bordeaux action with some Californian help (3 notes)

Red
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
97 points
From Magnum,
in great shape, together in a flight with GL 1982 (cork), reserve bottle was 1985 Phelps Insignia (96p). still young, firm and ripe tannins, great refreshing acidity, black currant with cedar and cigar box, starting to make fun, 96-97
Red
1985 Joseph Phelps Insignia USA, California, Napa Valley
96 points
From magnum
very elegant and reluctant. It was the reserve bottle for a corked GL 1982. Drank blindly and I thought it was Bordeaux, nice cassis and cherry notes but a pleasant acidity, many years ahead 95-96
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
flawed
From Magnum Corked

Flight 11 - For his alone (1 note)

Red
1945 Château Léoville Barton France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
94 points
From Magnum,
Beautiful fresh, typical Bx notes in nose and palate, still very nice drinkable with a nice "sweet" finish, won't get better

Flight 12 - Two wild ones (2 notes)

Red
1990 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
95 points
From Magnum, decanted for 3 hours
very strong and powerful, but a little bit one-dimensional, dark berries, spicy, mighty tannins, needs much time to show his beauty, at this stage 95-96, lost against La Chapelle 1990
Red
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
97 points
From Magnum,
even after 3 hours of decantation a little bit closed, very young, great acidity structure, ripe fine grained tannins, from this perfect bottle at least 10 more years to get rounder and smoother, tobacco, pepper, spyicy, 97+
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 13 - A great bubbly finish (1 note)

In strong fitness

White - Sparkling
1996 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année France, Champagne
96 points
From Magnum
In phantastic shape, again. Citrus, brioche, some mocca, and a great nutty finish, second time from MG, very vivid and clean, staring to reach his peak if you like the young stage of a champagne. If you like older champagnes there is no hurry,give him at leats 10 more years (from Magnum), 96+
3 people found this helpful Comment

Closing

For me the winners were Vieux Certan 1955, Latour 1970 (WOTN) and Martha's Vineyard 1975. Mouton and Latour 1982 from perfect cellars are in this stage "undrinkable" Haut Brion 1989 and LMHB 1990 are a hint more accessible than the mentioned Premier Crus.

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