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Annual Roi Chambertin tasting: 2016 Gevreys from village to grand cru
Espace Chambertin, Bourgogne
Tasted November 16, 2017 by PanosKakaviatos with 684 views
Introduction
Based on this tasting of village, premiers and grands crus, 2016 appears to be darn good for Gevrey-Chambertin. Remembered generally in Burgundy for its low crop - at least 20 per cent less than 2015 - much of the blame comes from severe frost, as well as hail and mildew in some locations. But Gevrey Chambertin was not as badly affected by the frost as other regions had been. And what made the vintage work were the sunny months of July, August and September, with just a bit of rain at the right times to freshen berries that had to put up with sometimes excessive summer heat. Due to variable frost damage earlier in the year, yields vary according to vineyard and producer. But the overall sense for Gevrey Chambertin is that of fine ripeness, with little sense of "over maturity". The fine summer, quite hot at times, did not define the vintage as much as the heat of 2015 did, according to many tasters. For pics and video, too, please subscribe to wine-chronicles.com: it is free!
Flight 1 - Gevrey Chambertin village level 2016s (17 notes)
This is the section that - as a buyer - interests me the most. Bourgogne prices are scraping ever higher skies, pricing me out of many upper echelons. It has been a long while since I have considered buying an Armand Rousseau, for example. But now many other producers' premiers and especially grands crus have become untouchable as well; my wallet is not nearly as thick as their pricing.
Red
2016 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes
Very virile and full bodied, with a nose that suggests power. Earthy suggestions already, but with a clean, fresh and long finish: a lovely village level wine. If the price is right, I'm a buyer.
Red
2016 René Bouvier Gevrey-Chambertin Racines du Temps
Very old vines floral and elegant. A bit high toned, to me at least, but the ripeness is there and should be lovely with steak. Michael Apstein got some vanilla oak sweetness, as well. But we both agreed that it is more like a Chambolle, with silky tannins. Another wine I want to purchase if the price is not too crazy expensive (the way of fine Burgundy these days, alas).
Red
2016 Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Gevrey-Chambertin
Like some other wines at this mammoth tasting, I got a bit of excessive oak derived notes on the nose. The palate is not as nuanced as the Rene Bouvier Racines du Temps, tasted just before, and seems just a bit monotone by comparison. There is juice however and ripeness. So it should be fine, with time the oak should integrate, but not as interesting or fresh.
Red
2016 Philippe Rossignol Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
A fairly recent lieu dit named as an appellation of Gevrey-Chambertin in the commune of Brochon. More oak here that seems to mask the fruit with a rather powerful tannic aspect. Not sure ...
Red
2016 Domaine Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin
This has a sweet nose and pleases on the attack with ripe fruit, but ends up just a bit austere on the finish. Give it time, as it should "come around".
Red
2016 Domaine Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Vigne Belle
What is going on here? While the regular bottling seemed rather promising, here the austerity and dryness dominate, with a certain hollowness on the mid palate.
Red
2016 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
Juicy, yet intense, too. Almost warm, but there is verve and good fun to this wine which has fine mid palate substance.
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Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Pierre Labet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
This has a bit of oak derived sweetness on the nose, but is not drying on the palate. Purists may not love it, but I think it is a pleasure.
Red
2016 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs
Sweet entry, and even just somewhat drying on the finish. But far better than the Thierry Mortets and the mid palate sap appeals. Let's just see how it integrates with time in bottle.
Red
2016 Héritière Louis Remy Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées
From a lieu dit called Les Seuvrées, which I could not add as a "new wine" on Cellar Tracker. A bit strange, sweet and somewhat cloying. Was it a faulty bottle? Note reserved.
Red
2016 Domaine Chevalier Gevrey-Chambertin
Oh yes: lovely and rich, with fine earth. I’ll take it! A very good producer somewhat under the radar, and not too pricey. At least last time I checked.
Red
2016 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
By comparison, tasted just after the Chevalier, this wine comes across just a bit warm. I think I preferred the 2015, if I recall correctly. It is good, mind you, but something about it seems a bit too hefty, at least to me.
Red
2016 Domaine Pierre Gelin Gevrey-Chambertin Clos de Meixvelle
This one is smooth and rich, with juicy earthy notes. Along with the Chevalier, I’ll take it, too!
Red
2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Quite reductive but taking the time yields juicy fruit and nuance. Promising juice.
Red
2016 Domaine Philippe Naddef Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
There is mid palate sap and substance but it dries out just a bit.
Red
2016 Domaine Philippe Naddef Gevrey-Chambertin
More similar to the old vines bottling, this lieu dit En Songe also seems to dry out on the finish. Hopefully it will come together in bottle, but for now my stance is neutral.
Red
2016 Jane et Sylvain Gevrey-Chambertin
A fellow taster was raving about this, but it did not make a great impression on me. Just seemed a bit plain for a fine village level Gevrey Chambertin. Time in bottle? For now, neutral stance.
Flight 2 - Premiers Crus (9 notes)
I did not taste as many of the premiers as I should have, but really liked Bruno Clair Cazetiers as one of my favorites among those tasted.
Red
2016 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
All the Tortochots were performing well at this tasting. This is tasty and rich, with verve and mid palate sap. The length is excellent. Bravo!
Red
2016 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Make that "I really like it" ... Juicy and rich and yet nicely structured with a touch of spice. Coming back to this after tasting the Clos Saint Jacques, it seems to have more nuance. Certainly more elegance. Should I break the bank and buy it? Seriously considering.
Red
2016 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
Tasted along with Cazetiers, the first the impression is of very much "broader shoulders" and closed in, through to the finish. Has sap indeed. "But oak seems to be winning at this stage," as Michael Apstein said. This should turn out just great, but hard to gauge at this very early stage.
Red
2016 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
Sap driven and lip smacking juicy. Not at all heavy or concentrated. May not compete with the “bigger boys” but if the price is right, buy it.
Red
2016 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
A bit too oak influenced here, when compared to the Rene Leclerc, tasted just before. This estate is not known for too much oak, is it? What is happening? I far prefer the Rene Leclerc. Maybe I am misjudging how well the oak will be integrated later in bottle, but for now: strictly neutral.
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Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Humbert Frères Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot
Lovely sap driven, and not oak driven, with a certain finesse in the earthiness. Nice job.
Red
2016 Domaine Humbert Frères Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques
Similar profile of the Poissenot but more concentrated - and just as delicious.
Red
2016 Domaine des Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Tight and not very forgiving. Just give it time in bottle as it is not so easy to gauge now.
Red
2016 Domaine des Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Romanée Vieilles Vignes
Even tighter and less forgiving than the Clos de Varoilles.
Flight 3 - Grands Crus (15 notes)
Some were truly grand. Pity that pricing has become too grand.
Red
Red
2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Charmes-Chambertin
I like the earthy power here. Is it a bit funky? Whatever the case, the concentration is impressive.
Red
2016 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin
Truly gorgeous, opulent yet structured. One of the top wines of the tasting.
Red
2016 Domaine Perrot-Minot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Better than the Chambertin as this has added opulence. Really gorgeous wine. A top candidate among them all. Bravo.
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Comment
Red
2016 Domaine Perrot-Minot Charmes-Chambertin
Very rich and juicy; lovely wine and befitting the name: charming!
Red
Red
2016 Domaine Tortochot Mazis-Chambertin
Starts out very smooth and nuanced but then gets austere and closed in on the finish. Should be very good but needs time in bottle ...
Red
2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Mazis-Chambertin
A bit sweet and concentrated, but delicious. Lacks the gravitas of the Perrot Minots.
Red
2016 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Chapelle-Chambertin
OK, if you want to purchase great grand cru Gevrey Chambertin, here you go. This is pure elegance and richness as well. No wonder a fellow taster told me not to try it: she wanted it for herself. Svelte and elegant.
Red
2016 Domaine René Leclerc Griotte-Chambertin
I will visit and perhaps buy some wines if possible. Quite smooth and intense at the same time. Juicy mid palate! Lovely!
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Comment
Red
2016 Pierre Damoy Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Too tight and too oak driven. I feel it lacks enough fruit expression.
Red
2016 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Sure, it is marked by the oak but the finish displays lift and juiciness. Indeed this is lovely: just give it time!
Red
2016 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Chambertin
Another candidate for top wine of the tasting (as it was last year): Just gorgeous. Very elegant yet strong. There is tightness to this wine, obviously not ready, but the arc - the tension - is impressive!
Red
2016 Domaine Pierre Gelin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
A bit austere and unforgiving. Not sure for now ...
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Comment
Closing
As Michael Apstein noted in the video that I include in wine-chronicles.com, it is a bit hard to definitively judge such young wines. For example, will the Bruno Clair Clos Saint Jacques remain somewhat broad and oak driven, as opposed to the currently (far more) nuanced Cazetiers? He does not think so. "These are moving pictures," he said.