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A lost Friday afternoon gathering – Raveneau and Chave Vertical

Blacksalt, Washington DC

Tasted February 23, 2018 by dcwino with 461 views

Introduction

Seven of us got together for a lost Friday lunch. We ended up with two mini verticals - Raveneau and Chave. The special tasting menu was exceptional as usual and the service was perfect.

Flight 1 - Champagne (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
1983 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut France, Champagne
96 points
The color is medium yellow which is a good sign. Beautiful perfectly mature nose displaying cinnamon baked apple, raspberry soda, a hint of vin jaune, toffee, crème brulee, honey and limestone. Excellent concentration, warm and rich, still showing generous mousse, mouth puckering acidity, strong mineral presence and a long cinnamon baked apple and red currant driven finish. Showing the richness and sweetness of Cristal. The complexity can be attributed to aging more so than the material which is a bit straightforward. Excellent showing.
White - Sparkling
1983 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
94 points
Slightly more advanced color than the Cristal showing a hint of amber. Initially a hint of toffee and light sherry. Fully mature nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, baked apple, clementine, a hint of red currant, cinnamon, toffee, hazelnut, lanolin, honey and limestone. Fully integrated harmonious palate, sweet and succulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, refined and polished, fine generous mousse, bright acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long sweet yellow fruit and red currant driven finish with sweet spices at the end. With air, it gets fresher and lighter, starting around 92pts and ending in 95pts.

Flight 2 - Riesling (2 notes)

White
2015 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
96 points
Incredibly focused nose displalying coiled fresh yellow and white fruit, candied lemon peel, key lime pie, white peach, yellow peach, acacia honey, very spicy, a hint of jalapeno and candied ginger, tar, and intense wet stone. There is a hint of petrol already. Excellent concentration, coiled yet incredibly layered fresh citrus and peach fruit, very refined and polished, laser like focus, perfect amount of acidity, incredible amount of wet mineral and a long intense citrus and mineral driven spicy finish. Despite being a bit coiled/tight at the moment, this is an incredibly intense and energetic GG that magically retains beautiful balance and finesse. Just like ice wine, I think I will like this slightly better in the first five to ten years. It reminds me a great Dauvissat Les Clos plus the sweetness and the richness. If you are a Reisling freak, your score may be a point or two higher.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2013 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
92 points
Warm and rich nose displaying yellow peach, pineapple, mango, lemon oil, sweet spices, burnt sugar and a hint of crushed rock. There is a hint of medicinal note that is interesting. Excellent concentration, rich opulent yellow fruit, warm and round, good acidity and a medium to long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. The fruit expression is riper and richer and the palate is not as focused as the Keller. Nice wine but outshined by the Keller.

Flight 3 - Raveneau (3 notes)

White
2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
95 points
Served blind, clearly the most expressive and youthful of the flight. Incredibly energetic nose displaying lemon curd, lemon oil, honey, crushed rock and rose mix, perfume, saline, spicy spices and chalk. Very precise energetic palate, beautifully layered cool citrus fruit, very polished and fluid, bright acidity, incredibly mineral and a long clean energetic finish. A lot more expressive than the last bottle from 2016. I really love the energy, freshness and precision. I can drink this all day and night.
White
2001 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
93 points
Served blind, very different showing than the last bottle from 2016. The ripest and the most mature of the flight. Fully mature nose displaying ripe yellow fruit, peach, apricot, crème brulee, honey, sweet spices, lanolin and a hint of mineral. I also get a hint of botrytis. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered ripe yellow fruit, bright acidity and a medium to long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. It is surprisingly ripe and round, more like a fat Meursault. It reminds me the 83 white burgundies at the similar stage of development. Perhaps not a typical Raveneau but still enjoyable.
White
2000 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Served blind, very ripe and dull. With air, incredibly focused and coiled nose displaying fresh white fruit, apple, a hint of pear, citrus, white flowers, rose, saline and incredible amount of crushed rock. Very precise, coiled and linear palate, mouth puckering acidity, incredibly mineral and a clean long mineral driven finish. For my palate, this seems almost too precise. A textbook Le Clos.

Flight 4 - Gaja (2 notes)

Red
1995 Gaja Barolo Sperss Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Expressive very “Gaja” nose displaying sweet black fruit, black cherry, dry cherry, licorice, iron, tar, leather, ink, sap and vanilla/oak. Excellent concentration, packed black fruit, rich and generous, good acidity, strong mineral presence, still noticeable tannins but not compare to the 96, and a long dry dark fruit and leather driven finish with noticeable iron at the end. It is so fascinating to compare with the 96 which seems purer, i.e. no noticeable oak, masculine and more structured. I prefer the 95 which is more modern/Gaja and user friendly.
Red
1996 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
94 points
Extremely youthful masculine nose displaying intense fresh black fruit, crushed black cherry, blackberry, strong anise and iron, tar, ash, ink and scorched earth. Excellent concentration, packed clean ripe black fruit, bright acidity, mouth puckering tannins and a long cool ripe black fruit and iron driven finish. The tannins are so strong it makes me to twitch. This seems very traditional, showing noticeable tar and iron and not showing any oak, especially compared to the 95. This is an incredibly youthful, powerful, masculine, impressive and structured wine that will require at least another decade to reach the youthful peak.

Flight 5 - Chave (4 notes)

Red
2004 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
94 points
Beautiful classic Chave nose displaying fresh cherry, raspberry, blackberry, lavender, rose, perfume, tapenade, black pepper, a hint of charred rare steak and limestone. Medium concentration, finely layered subtle red and black fruit, silky and fluid, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, a medium to long cherry and black pepper driven finish with a hint of tapenade at the end. I drank this next to the 05 in 2013 and the impression remains the same. It feels almost light compare to the 05 in concentration yet it is no less expressive in nose. This is a classic Chave hermitage that has reached the youthful peak. My educated guess is that this will develop like the 83, becoming very Burgundian in another decade. If you are a lover of Jamet, you will also love this.
5 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2005 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
100 points
Absolutely gorgeous perfectly ripe nose displaying intense blackberry, blackberry liqueur, a hint of cherry, rose, ink, lavender, lavender, exotic incense, perfume, iron, green olive oil, tapenade and garrigue. Simply perfect palate, incredibly concentrated yet airy and fluid, unbelievably layered very fine black fruit, refined, silky/almost oily, polished, perfect amount of acidity and an incredible long black fruit and green olive oil driven finish with exotic incense and perfume at the end. The tannins are completely masked by sensual black fruit. Upon release, I thought Bob’s rating was a bit too low at 95 as it was one of the greatest young Syrah for me. This has developed beautifully and now is perfection. For my palate, this is one of the greatest Syrahs ever produced.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
97 points
Incredibly massive and primary nose displaying blackhole of black fruit, blackberry jelly, crushed black cherry, ink, licorice, anise, lavender and strong limestone mineral. Unbelievable concentration, packed dense inky black fruit, good acidity, strong mineral presence and the finish is incredibly long but dominated by intense black fruit. It is very compact and primary without showing much nuance at the moment. This is more youthful than the 10 which is pretty expressive already. This will be another monumental Chave in another two decades but opening now will be a waste.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2010 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
98 points
Surprisingly expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe blackberry, black cherry, ink, licorice, tar, black pepper, lavender, cinnamon, tapenade and limestone. Excellent concentration, very precise and detailed, excellent balance, very finely layered black fruit, silky and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral and a long pure ripe black driven finish. Having the 09 and the 10 side by side, the differences are very similar to the 09 vs the 10 in Bordeaux. The nose and palate expression are almost identical to the 05 but obviously more youthful I believe this along with the 05 and the 09 will be flirting with perfection in another decade or two.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Sticky (2 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1970 Château Suduiraut France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
93 points
Bright clear amber. Nicely mature nose displaying apricot, burn sugar, a hint of saffron, honey and copper. Medium concentration, cool and clean, medium acidity, strong copper like mineral and a medium long apricot and honey driven finish. Neither the most complex nor concentrated but very clean and delicious.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
93 points
Subtle harmonious nose displaying dry peach, apricot, red currant, honey, copper, lanolin a hint of petrol, and candied ginger. Medium concentrated, good precision and detail, good acidity and mineral, and a medium to long dry apricot and red currant driven finish. Drinking nicely.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

A great time was had by all and the lunch lasted over five hours.

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