A Whiter Shade of Pale: Featuring Killer Chablis

Martina, Mpls

Tasted October 4, 2018 by rocknroller with 75 views

Introduction

Ten of us gathered tonight with a welcome dose of estrogen in the mix. The theme was whites and the trend was toward Chablis from the start. No complaints here as they were pretty impressive all around. Food as usual at Martina is excellent as was our service.

Flight 1 - Starter Champagne (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2008 José Michel & Fils Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
91 points
Light gold color. Drank a glass over 30 minutes. I agree with Chablis28, and I think that age has clearly improved this. Very good, nice green orchard fruits; medium weight, the brightness of the fruit really handles the chalk and limestone minerality well.

Flight 2 - Champagne Flight (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
2006 Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru La Grande Récolte France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
91 points
Light medium gold color. Drank a glass over 40 minutes. This was fairly masculine on the palate, apple, chalk, oxidative in character, with a full body and apple peel.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2011 Domaine Carneros Le Rêve USA, California, Napa / Sonoma, Carneros
93 points
Pale gold color. Drank a glass plus of 40 minutes. These are awfully good and certainly reminiscent of the big brother across the pond, Comte Champagne. Done in that same elegant style with great freshness, yeast, pear, white flowers,crystalline minerality, very fine and graceful across the palate. Deceptive energy and good length. 93-93+pts.

Flight 3 - We'll Make It Work Flight (3 notes)

White
2014 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
91 points
Light gold color. Drank a glass over 30 minutes. This continues to sail along and is spot on consistent with previous notes. Matchstick, lemon, lively, stones, charred embers. 91+pts.
White
2002 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
flawed
quite oxidized
White
2004 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé
94 points
Light gold color. Drank a glass over 45 minutes. A brilliant backup bottle from Leo tonight. I love this nose; killer earthy ocean aromas, a little basement funk, saline, a touch of that lacquer thing like Lopez whites, lemon with hints of gooseberry. The palate has fantastic lift, immense energy and that great briny earth and ocean mix, lemon curd, a touch of gooseberry, excellent crispness, and a long finish. Singing baby, singing....94+pts.

Flight 4 - Dauvissat 1er Chablis Flight (3 notes)

White
2010 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
95 points
Talk about stealing the show. With a couple impressive Grand Cru's tonight, the '10 Vaillons says take notice, I am here. And here it is. A stunningly different bottle than last year, this had all the boxes checked tonight. A wow wine that is rocking immediately; very intensely aromatic nose of striking limestone minerality, ocean breezes, tart lemon and lime, and lime blossoms. The palate is equal to the nose with everything that is great about 2010; great fruit, powerful, tart and taut; lemon, key lime, mild grapefruit, chiseled minerality and very zesty acids to give this lift and luster. My WOTN.
White
2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
94 points
Pale gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. Part of a great trio of 1er Dauvissats that were all outstanding, this was my second favorite. More coiled and tight than the '10 Vaillons, this comes into its own gradually and by 30 to 45 minutes has roared out of any perceived shell. White citrus, steely mineral, saline, more white fruits, pear, very long. If only there was a way to drink the '10 Vaillons and '14 La Forest when they are at the same point in there aging curve, now that would be a fun comparison. The '14 may ultimately outshine here. 93 to start and 94pts at peak.
5 people found this helpful Comment
White
2012 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
92 points
Light greenish gold color. Drank a glass over 45 minutes. The final part of the Dauvissat 1er trio tonight ('10 Vaillons, '14 La Forest). This is also excellent, a little softer on the palate, still with good brine, lean and tart, lemon-lime sweet tarts. 92+pts.

Flight 5 - Grand Cru Chablis Flight (2 notes)

White
2010 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
92 points
Ultra Pale green/gold. Drank a glass over 40 minutes. Very solid, but like Chablis28 noted, I as kind of expecting a rock star and got more of an opening act. Which is not to say it wasn't good, it sure was, but it didn't have the wow factor working tonight. Oyster shell minerality, Meyer lemon, slightly oily texture, fairly steely and intense on the palate. This might need a little more time too. 92(+?)pts.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2014 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
93 points
Pale gold color. Drank a glass over an hour. The nose was ahead with the palate gaining speed over the hour. This seemed a bit more coiled and in need of more time. The minerality is there, but I don't get that Fevre earthiness that I look for as a signature. Bold fruit, lemon-lime, tart apple, very tart and coiled, Meyer lemon, brisk with wow length though. As expected, youthful with huge upside. Give this 2 to 4 years. 93+(+)pts.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Dessert Wine (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
92 points
Light-medium golden color. Drank a glass over 30 minutes. Apple blossoms, apple, baked apple, sweet, ripe fruit, apple skin, high toned and tropical edged, oily texture, wet wool.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Closing

Notable wines for me were the '10 Dauvissat Vaillon and the '04 Dagueneau Pur Sang among several others.

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