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Not a bad Saturday afternoon

Tasted December 8, 2018 by MikeATL with 306 views

Introduction

Saturday's theme was bring whatever you want, as long as it is an old world wine and at least 10 years old (unless it is Burgundy, in which case young wines are fine too). The host added the caveat that since the year is coming to a close, bring something nice and no alligator arms. The group complied. While cold heavy rain and wind kept it dreary and desolate outside, inside we warmed our bodies and spirits with good wine, good food, and great company.

Flight 1 - Whites and Bubbles (5 notes)

White - Sparkling
2004 Champagne Le Mesnil Champagne Grand Cru Prestige Millésimé France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
90 points
Lemony and tart, but with some weight, very pleasant.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Réserve France, Champagne
91 points
Rich and nutty on the nose, lemon curd, slate, and a little nutty on the palate, pretty and satisfying with nice crispness.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée France, Champagne
96 points
Purchased on release around 2003 and from the cork code of M251, it appears to have been disgorged September/October 2002. A little nutty and lemony, but with piercing and intense minerality, still fairly young. I've had the 1996, 2000, and 2004 Krugs in the last month or so and this was comparable in quality to the 1996 and drinking better than the 2000 and 2004. A spectacular Champagne and proof of the ageworthiness of the Grande Cuvée, I've had it at least 15 years and have no doubt it will continue to excel for at least another 15.

An added bonus is that it has the beautiful old gold label, which I much prefer to the current iteration, so it looks as good as it tastes.
4 people found this helpful Comment
White
2000 Nikolaihof Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
92 points
I wasn’t sure what to expect from an 18 year old federspiel, but what we got was a thing of beauty. Apricots and slate with a touch of petrol and a tangy finish, it combines richness and precision well and is hard to stop drinking.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2011 Camille Giroud Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
89 points
From magnum, it was pleasant, but muted. It probably needs more time.

Flight 2 - Red Burgundy (8 notes)

Red
1998 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
93 points
Brooding but with a vibrant streak of tart cherry and a touch of menthol adding some bright contrasts, a little stout, but with excellent complexity, it gave a very strong performance.
Red
2001 Louis Latour Chambertin Cuvée Héritiers Latour France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
91 points
Expressive dark cherry and brown sugar, a little soft, but very nice.
Red
2002 Nicolas Potel Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
89 points
Kind of muddled dark cherry with a touch of brown sugar. Nice, but not at the level I'd expect from this producer, vintage, and cru.
Red
2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
flawed
Corked.
Red
2007 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Explosively perfumed with brown sugar, spice, tomato skin, and dark cherry, sweet on the palate with fine tannin, it exemplifies Dujac's exotic charm which always seems to be dialed up a notch in the Charmes-Chambertin.
Red
2007 Lucien Le Moine Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
88 points
This was an odd duck, muddled cherry and spice on the nose suggested Burgundy, but the heavy black pepper on the palate read more like northern Rhône, Mildly interesting, but not terribly enjoyable.
Red
2008 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
86 points
Funky insecticide and white pepper on the nose, a bit green on the palate. With air, the stems continued to dominate but with more intense menthol, a little less insecticide, and more pepper on the palate. I'm pretty tolerant of a lot of stem character, but this (and some other 2008 Grivots I've had) is just too much.
Red
2008 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
90 points
A little foursquare and rustic at the moment, but with good underlying harmony, should be better with more age.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Rhone and Bordeaux (3 notes)

Red
1998 Domaine Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Bloody meat, a little smoke and pepper, brambly fruit and a little leather, nice acidity, a great classic Côte Rotie that is probably at or close to peak, but in no danger of fading any time soon.
Red
1996 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
94 points
By this point in the day, my note taking was starting to suffer, but this was one of the wines of the day. Minty brambly fruit with lovely complexity and balance and the ineffable class that distinguishes the estate.
Red
1995 Château L'Arrosée France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
90 points
Celery seed and pyrazine, very savory, a rough and tumble wine that shows a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc character. It had a mixed reception. I enjoyed it quite a bit, but I'm a big fan of Loire Cabernet Franc and old school Bordeaux.

Flight 4 - Spain and Italy (6 notes)

Red
2001 Artadi Rioja Grandes Añadas Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
92 points
Sweet fruit with some vanilla oak and leather, age has brought some nice complexity, but it still has room for development.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2006 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
94 points
Rich and intense dark fruit, anise and star anise, with plenty of oak spiraled through like a marbled rye, lots of fine tannin on the finish, still a baby, but if you have a lot it is worth drinking one now.
Red
1990 Tenuta Friggiali Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
Leather and prune with a lot of sweet fruit, holding up well.
Red
2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
A little tar and flowers, modestly ripe but good intensity, still loaded with fine tannin, in its adolescence with a lot of life left.
Red
2005 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
A great example of Clerico's trademark combination of ripe dark fruit and spice and brown sugar, and with a touch of florality, it is drinking very well now. It won't be mistaken for a traditional Barolo, but it has plenty of its own charms to offer and deserves to be appreciated for what it is more than for what it isn't.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2011 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
89 points
Light, floral, and a little candied, pleasant but fairly simple.

Flight 5 - Dessert (2 notes)

Red - Fortified
1968 Krohn Porto Colheita Portugal, Douro, Porto
92 points
A very nice balance of sweetness, age, and freshness, with a little earthiness thrown in.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
95 points
Lemon creme brûlée in a bottle, with more acidity than I would have predicted 20 years ago. For a long time this was my third favorite of the brilliant 1988 to 1990 run, but it may have passed the 1990 and is closing in on the 1988 as the balancing acidity becomes more and more apparent.
2 people found this helpful Comment
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