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A small impromptu dinner - 08 Champagne and Chateau Margaux
Clarity - Vienna, Virginia
Tasted December 16, 2019 by dcwino with 395 views
Introduction
Assaf organized a wine dinner as Dennis C. would be in town. Assaf and Dennis wanted to try the 08 Cristal and Dom Perignon side by side and also suggested the 96 and the 00 Chateau Margaux. Luckily the others also had Chateau Margaux to offer so we were able to create a nice vertical. We were situated in the main dining area since it was only five of us. Chef Jon created a tasting menu that was exceptional, and he even added a couple impromptu courses.
Flight 1 - Domestic Sparkler (2 notes)
The 12 Ultramarine from two years ago was really disappointing so I had absolutely no expectation. This was exceptional, superb balance and complexity. The Rhys was light, no resemblance to Champagne, not that it had too. Hopefully Rhys's future vintages will be better.
White - Sparkling
2014 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast
94 points
Expressive nose displaying rich yellow fruit, peach, sour apple, apple pie, oyster shell, a hint of brioche, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered sweet yellow fruit, medium fine medium abundant mousse, rich yet good precision and balance, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with brioche and oyster shell at the end. This is significantly better than the 12 which I had in April, 2017. If tasted blind, I would have guessed as Champagne, others agree. This is rich and complex, really enjoyable.
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White - Sparkling
2015 Rhys Blancs de Blancs Bearwallow Vineyard
89 points
This is fresher and cleaner compare to the 2014 Ultramarine. Unfortunately it lacks complexity and richness. The nose is straightforward, apple ad a hint of smoke. Medium concentration, coarse abundant mousse, fresh apple fruit, good acidity and mineral and a medium finish. It reminds me cremant de Loire. It is fresh but sharp and not terribly interesting.
2 people found this helpful
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Flight 2 - 2008 Champagne (3 notes)
This was my first time with the 08 Cristal Rose. The nose was tight but the palate was to die for. The 08 Cristal is a monumental Champagne that has been extremely consistent.
Rosé - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Rosé
97 points
Medium expressive very focused nose displaying slightly coiled red fruit, subtle strawberry, raspberry water, caramel, rose, boriche and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, very finely layered slightly coiled red fruit, incredibly fine medium abundant mousse, rich yet beautifully focused, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long coiled red fruit driven finish. The nose is a bit tight but the palate is too die for. This is subtler and sophisticate style of rose, i.e. like Krug NV rose but more concentrated and complex.
2 people found this helpful
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White - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
99 points
Exquisite nose displaying rich yet energetic and refreshing white and yellow fruit, apple, pear, apple pie, a hint of pineapple, sap, candied ginger and limestone. Perfect balance and harmony, very finely layered concentrated yellow fruit, very fine abundant mousse, rich yet elegant and perfectly precise, bright acidity and mineral, and a seamless long decadent yet pure yellow fruit driven finish. I am not a big fan of young Cristal as I find them to be very rich but slightly lacking energy and freshness. The 08 combines the rich Cristal style and the precise and energetic 08 vintage character. Incredible showing. Everyone is impressed.
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White - Sparkling
2008 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame
95 points
Vibrant youthful nose displaying fresh white fruit with a hint of yellow, apple, pear, lemon curd, very floral, sweet spices and limestone. Very good concentration, finely layered fresh white fruit, fine abundant mousse, light and creamy yet good core richness, bright acidity, strong mineral and a long refreshing white fruit driven finish Although it has good concentration, it gives a light impression next to the 08 Cristal. Very clean and refreshing but with good concentration.
P.S. It got richer and deeper but a bit flat the next day, a bit of downgrade to 93pts.
P.S. It got richer and deeper but a bit flat the next day, a bit of downgrade to 93pts.
Flight 3 - Dom Perignon (2 notes)
The 08 Dom Perignon is highly unusual as it is incredibly elegant and energetic in its youth. On the other hand, the 05 is very typical, rich and deeply toned and needs time.
White - Sparkling
2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne
94 points
Deeply toned youthful nose displaying rich yellow fruit, apple, apple pie, honey, lanoline, smoke, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, packed ripe yellow fruit, rich and dense, abundant fine mousse, medium acidity, strong mineral and a medium to long deeply tone ripe yellow fruit driven finish. This is following the classic DP evolution, i.e. deep and dense at the moment but with impressive concentration, will develop beautifully in another decade.
1 person found this helpful
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White - Sparkling
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne
99 points
Incredibly expressive and energetic nose displaying sumptuous pure white and yellow fruit, granny smith, pear, meyer lemon, candied lemon peel, white flower and limestone. So serious yet so friendly palate, very finely layered sweet yet pure white fruit with a hint of yellow, very fine abundant mousse, rich yet energetic, elegant and fluid, bright acidity, strong mineral and a seamless long sweet white fruit driven finish with limestone and honey at the end. The 08 Dom has been drinking incredibly well, atypical for a young DOM, i.e. so elegant, energetic and delicious. I typically prefer the 08 Cristal slightly but I find them equally great in this occassion.
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Flight 4 - Chateau Margaux - Flight 1 (2 notes)
Both showed really well. I was hoping that the 90 will be perfect but not quite.
Red
1982 Château Margaux
98 points
The only fully mature wine of the flight. Fully mature complex nose displaying ripe sweet red and black fruit, crème de cassis, a hint of cherry jam, plum, caramel, strong Margaux perfume/flower, lead pencil, strong cedar, a hint of ash and earth. Perfectly integrated harmonious palate, layers upon layers of sweet slightly dry red fruit, rich, silky and polished, medium acidity, strong mineral, fully resolved tannins and a seamless long sweet red fruit driven finish with rose and cedar at the end. Assaf initially loves the nose but finds palate slightly short. With air, it gains weight and becomes richer. The last sip is the best sip Excellent showing.
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Red
1990 Château Margaux
98 points
Youthful expressive nose displaying intense ripe black fruit, crème de cassis dominates, blueberry concentrate, stewed blackberry, a hint of licorice, lavender, dark caramel, lavender and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of decadent concentrated black fruit, silky and sensual, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, nicely resolved tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with caramel and rose at the end. The silky palate is to die for. I have consistently rated the 90 Margaux perfect until 2017. It has become slightly softer and not as intense and expressive. Nevertheless, it is an incredible wine with a long life ahead.
Flight 5 - Chateau Margaux - Flight 2 (3 notes)
The 96 Margaux was so noble and classic. The 00 was simply perfect. The 02 was a pleasant surprise.
Red
1996 Château Margaux
99 points
Incredibly sophisticate classic Margaux nose displaying intense fresh black fruit, crème de cassis, crushed blueberry and black berry, licorice, incense, sap, rose, lead pencil, cedar and crushed rock. Perfectly harmonious sensual palate, unbelievably layered pure black fruit, silky, detailed and weightless, bright acidity, strong mineral, beautifully integrated very fine tannins and a seamless long black fruit driven finish with crushed rose and rock mix at the end. The most sophisticated and delineated Margaux of the flight that flirts with perfection.
1 person found this helpful
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Red
2000 Château Margaux
100 points
Incredibly youthful hedonistic nose displaying intense concentrated black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, incense, liquid smoke, lavender, cedar, lead pencil, dark caramel and crushed rocks. Unbelievable concentration, layers upon layers of intense crème de cassis, unctuous and rich but also perfectly precise, fluid and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and the finish that never ends. Comparing to the 96 always results in the same outcome, very similar in style but this is slightly riper, richer and more concentrated where the 96 is more precise and detailed. This wine can easily improve for another three decades or more.
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Comments (3)
Red
2002 Château Margaux
94 points
Very youthful expressive nose displaying ripe concentrated black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry, showing more plum than the others, roasted fruit, also a hint of green, cedar, lead pencil, dark spices and earth. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated black fruit, unctuous and chewy, good acidity, earthy mineral and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with lead pencil and cedar at the end. This clearly displays the 02 vintage, i.e. concentrated but a bit rough/rustic, mostly very ripe fruit but also a hint of green. I believe this has the concentration to age well. Not too behind the others, especially in a decade or two.
Closing
A great time was had by all. A nice way to celebrate the holidays!