Served single blind. Picked as clearly the Pajè. A lighter ruby colour with a little garnet. A bouquet of tilled earth, red cherry and preserved red fruit, with a touch of tar and meaty and pretty, floral components. Also, some Marmite, showing signs of development and oxidation. In the mouth, charming and lighter bodied than the other wines. Some tasters had the Pajè as lacking depth and weight. Savoury, earthy and meaty. Also some dark chocolate and Marmite. Attractive, vibrant acidity, I really liked. Judged on palate, the most evolved wine in the lineup. The tannins well integrated and softened, although some found them a little drying on the relatively short finish. Overall, an attractive, enjoyable entry level wine, there for drinking soon. My rating 7/7, group rating 6/7.

Served single blind. Picked as likely the Moccagatta. A lighter, garnet colour, appearing the most mature on the table. More savoury aromas. Earth, dry brush, tobacco, dried herbs with some rich, ripe red fruit. Also, some bacon and yeasty Marmite elements. The Moccagatta was described by Barbara as showing "some wild, feral notes". On palate, in my view, a small step up from the Pajè. Again, showing that lovely, fresh 2004 Barbaresco acidity. Seeming a considerably lighter weight than the wines to come. It had a nice opulent entry to the palate, but then it fell a little short on the finish. Some oxidated notes. Soil, spice, chocolate and funk. However, the Cru complemented particularly well the braised beef dish. A wine to drink sooner rather than later. My rating 6/7, group rating 7/7.

Served single blind. Picked as potentially the Ovello. Fairly primary red colour. Pretty floral, raspberry, red cherry, dried red fruit, earth, tobacco and Asian spice perfumes. On palate, a rich, generous, red fruited entry. Seemingly drinking younger than the first two wines, also qualitatively - in my opinion - clearly better. Harmonious and complex. Layered. Truffles, delicate cherries, spices and savoury components. Lovely precise acidity. Soft but refined tannins. Showing well now but with years ahead of it. Often in a Produttori horizontal my favourite Riserva - I did not see here the chalky tannins I normally associate with the Montefico - my rating 3/7, group rating 4/7. Quality!

Served single blind, confused with the Montefico. I did not find the vegetal earthiness that I expect from a Produttori Ovello. My original pour was from a corked bottle but a later small sample from a clean bottle was very impressive (so it is reviewed accordingly). Ruby and some garnet colour. An attractive spicy red fruited and earthy bouquet. Rich, brambly fruit on palate. Plenty of rich, primary red fruit, red currant and raspberry. Brooding tannins. Well balanced. Excellent length. In its early drinking window. Impressive! My rating 5/7, group rating 3/7.

Served single blind, I had this wine as likely the Asili, rather than the Rabajà. The group WoTN - although scored the same as the Rabajà - my second WoTN. Good bright ruby with a little garnet at the rim. Perfumed with lifted florals, red cherries, raspberries, spices and touches of tar and tobacco. Classy, refined and elegant on palate. More concentration and power than the earlier Cru. Fine grained, sleek tannins. Black and red berries and cherries with spices and some gently evolved earthy and savoury elements. Years ahead of it but quite open now.

Served single blind, I had this wine as likely the Rabajà, rather than the Asili. Fairly deep, primary ruby colour. Musky, spicy plums, raspberries and red cherries on the nose. Intensely red fruited. On palate, plenty of gorgeous, bright, ripe red and black berry fruit, more than for the Asili, beside it. Touches of savoury evolution. Notes of black truffles, balsamic vinegar and dry herbs. However, drinking younger and less evolved than the Asili. More concentration, structure and power than the Asili. Approachable now but it will, I expect, reward additional cellar time (say 3-5 years). My WoTN but the group preferred the Asili.

Served single blind, this Cru could only have been the Montestefano. The deepest, most primary ruby colour of the seven Cru. Serralunga-like. Aromatic, floral complexity on the nose. A generous and expressive, powerful bouquet of mainly black fruit. In the mouth, serious fruit volume, power and concentration. Plush black fruit with iron and chalky minerals at its core. Quite unresolved. It finished very long on its fine grained tannins. A group of tasters thought the wine over-ripe and evolved, which - I assumed - must have been the result of a defective bottle. Another group of Barolo aficionados had this Cru as their favourite. I was somewhere in the middle. The Montestefano needs serious time (say, 5-10 more years). My rating 4/7, group rating 5/7.