Lovely balance between aperitif freshness and more rounded, creamy complexity and richness giving first course weight. Very moreish and beguilingly complex. ****

Mid to full straw. Quite rich on the nose. Similar on palate, a touch of caramel and then mid weight Meursault. Broader and rounder on the attack without quite the trademark precision and focus in the finish. Lovely, but contrasts rather with the more ‘correct’ and focused 09. ****

Very classical, esp cf the 10 alongside. Pale straw, refined and poised on the nose. Similar on palate, very precise and focused and no sense of blowsiness palate follows nose. Lovely. ****

Served a little warm, but lacking focus and precision initially. Quite soft and broad, a rounded right bank feel. Lacks the trademark mocha notes. Warm and gentle, cosseting even. ****

Deeper and darker and denser than the PB. Far more focused and precise too, though served a little cooler. Classic blackcurrant, cedar and pencil lead nose. Very poised and focused, but also very drinkable with some secondary development evident. This is impressive, and fully open for business at the start of its window. ****

A good showing. Fresh, ferrous, bright red fruit. Good acidity. Very complete and excellent with grouse. ****

Raspberry fruit against a darker and more savoury frame. Quite meaty and savoury in these burgundy glasses. Full, nuanced and very good indeed. Lacks a little sparkle cf a bottle a couple of years ago (that opened and poured, this double decanted in advance) but very, very good nonetheless. ****1/2

Mid gold, good stream of medium bubbles. Nicely rich, buttery and mature in the meaty rather than mature B de B spectrum. Ripe, rounded and quite broad. Good food wine but lacks the class of the Hebrart earlier. Still, that’s being picky. ***