Burghound in Asia Grand Tasting

This was the big, walkabout tasting portion of the Burghound in Asia event. Tons and tons of pinot and chard. What with the great masterclasses sprinkled through the afternoon and the need to rest the palate in between, I could barely cover a quarter of the wines on show. Still, it was really good fun, and a great chance to taste through a range wines made from my favourite red grape, both old and new world.

• 2007 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  My this was good! A classic Chablis in every sense of the word. Salty, savoury, seashell and flint scents danced alongside white fruit scents in an entrancing nose. In the mouth, the wine showed serious palate-staining intensity wed to precise definition and great 2007 freshness and focus. There was the white fruit picked up on the nose, some creaminess and sweet lemons as the wine pulled away in a powerful and super long finish. Brilliant stuff.

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• 2007 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Domaine du Duc de Magenta 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  Another brilliant white. I liked everything about this wine. It had an absolutely lovely nose, full of gunflint, mineral, toasted nuts, smoke and ripe white fruit scents all coming together to form a complex, savoury melange. If anything, the palate had even more character. Again, very savoury, almost salty, with a mushroomy background note and more lovely minerality. No one would accuse this wine of having Grand Cru weight, but it did have good depth and palate-clinging flavours of pears and apples to go alongside its more savoury facets even as the wine closed off in a long, mushroomy finish. There was certainly Morgeot power here, but amazing thing for me though was the pitch perfect balance here that made the wine so easy to drink, lending it a great sense of deinition and focus too. Loved it.

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• 2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  A most un-Chablis-like Chablis, but rather a nice wine, especially at its price. The nose could well be a new world Chard, with sweet pineapples and tropical fruit notes, almost a bit of lychee at the edges. The palate was soft and approachable, lacking a bit of the acidity and cut I look for in a good Chablie, but it had good depth and concentration, with fleshy fruit with some of the ripe torpical sweetness picked up on the nose. Here, I got guava and gooseberries along with the more pineapply notes. Some mineral does show up on the mid-palate and towards the back-end, which had a surprising amount of staying power. But overall, it was the succulent fruit and a touch of sweet nuttiness that marked the finish more. A pretty nice wine, but on preference alone, not one I would rush out to buy.

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• 2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  A bit step up from the Cru 1er Vaillons tasted alongside. Not the best Les Clos in the world, but a very nice wine nonethless. Like the Vaillons, this was also of the more fleshy, more modern ilk, but at least the Chablis comes through more, with flinty mineral hints running alongside sweet stone fruit and pineapple scents on the nose. A little nutty whiff brought up the rear. The palate had a mouthwatering feel that I really liked, with round acidity lending a nice juicness to weighty flavours of fleshy white fruit and slightly sweeter stone fruit notes. It would have been very impressive if not for a slight lack of cut and focus and a finish which was decent rather length. Otherwise, it was good wine in a rich, ripe style.

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• 2009 Daniel & Julien Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé Alliance Vieilles Vignes 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  This was very impressive for what it was and delivers solid QPR too. The nose was a bit unusual, almost white Rhone-like in its tones of white pepper, flowers and nuts. The palate had impressive weight and good acidity lending a nice sense of freshness to flavours of sweet lemons, some green limes and a touch of nuts. Unliked the slightly flabby 2009 Chablis tasted alongside, this was energetic and focused. There was a nice persistence on the finish too, where some mineral notes emerged alongside the fruit. Very enjoyable.

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• 2009 Daniel & Julien Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays Vieilles Vignes 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

  Very good. This was a real surprise. A step up from the entry-level "Alliance", it showed a nice creamy accented nose with sweetish white fruit, floral nuances and a nice amount of smoky mineral and spice. The finish had a 2009 ripeness to it, with mouthfilling flavours of white fruit - pears I thought - with a light tropical overtone. I thought it lacked just a bit of freshness and focus that would push it up a notch, but there was neverthless a nice juicness to the whole frame, and the wine was always balanced all the way into a long finish with more sweet fruit notes. Impressive depth and breadth here - this should be really nice in a couple of years' time when the wine has had some time to knit together.

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• 2008 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  Served a bit warm, but this had a nice ring of quality to it. The nose showed uncharacteristically sweet fruit tones with ripe apples, almond nuts and flowers. Attractive. The palate had a nice depth of fleshy white fruit, some sweet lemons and some spice notes as it entered into a long, clingy finish. A nice, femine expression of Puligny. I might have preferred a touch more focus and acidity, but that could have been a function of the fact that the wine was served at a less than ideal temperature. This was overall a really solid village.

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• 2008 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Really good. Like the Puligny village, this was also served a tad warm, but it showed really well. I thought it was a step-up from the Puligny in fact. It had a very entrancing, showing lots of depth and complexity for such a young wine in its melon scents, sweet apple flesh and nutty backdrop. The palate was really nice too. Mouthfilling flavours of white fruit, apples and pears were traced by fresh acidity that added a nice focused feel, and sprinkled with mineral and spice tones that carried the wine into a finely detailed finish. Really nice stuff, with a real sense of poise and balance - this is a good wine to put aside in the cellar for a few years.

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• 2008 Stonier Chardonnay Reserve 91 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula

  I was very impressed by this. The nose was a dead ringer for white Burgundy. It was savoury and complex, with white fruit scents nestling amidst earthy mushroom notes and a nice ring of minerality adding an extra edge to the bouquet. The palate was clearly new world though, it was mid-weight, not overly rich, but had a telltale nutty sweetness along with some tropical, pineapple shades to its fruit. Not the most complex, perhaps given its age, but it was very balanced and pure, and a real pleasure to drink. The finish had a real intensity to it along with a minerally subtext that held out the promise of greater complexity as the wine ages. Really nice stuff, and I have no doubt it will mature well over the mid-term at the very least.

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• 2008 Seresin Chardonnay Reserve 92 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

  I have always liked this bottling - this was another good bottle. Very nice on the nose, it showed sweet fruited scents of lemons and limes, alongside some herbs and a little nuttiness. Could be a very ripe Puligny. The palate was more new world though. It had a soft, creamy feel to it. Still primary, still a bit simple with its yellow fruit and lemon tones alongside rich buttery tones, but there was very nice integration and balance fresh, energetic finish. This has good bones, and should age very nicely over the next 5-6 years. Worth seeking out.

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• 2006 Domaine Anne Gros Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée

  This village lieu-dit is priced higher by the Domaine than its Chambolle bottling, and one could see why from this bottle - really good stuff. Nose was very feminine, seductive, with perfumed notes of sweet cherry and flowers galore alongside a little hint of savoury earth. That savouriness was picked up a bit more on the palate, which showed an orange peel note alongside some absolutely succulent red fruit tones. This was every bit as sexy and sensual as the nose led on, with a velvety mouth-feel and soft, integrated tannins gliding alongside the fruit. A bit primary at the moment, but I just loved how drinkable it was. Right at the finish, some Vosne spiciness finally comes out along with a mouthfilling perfume with more lovely floral tones. A real charmer of a wine. I am not sure it will be one for the long-term, but it should amply reward mid-term cellaring.

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• 2006 Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

  Another nice village chez Gros. Nose was so Chambolle, a bit of reduction maybe, but past that there was with a bit of soil, a whole lots of flowers and sweetly melting cherry scents, almost maraschino-like. The sweet cherries were taken on in the palate along with a raspberry-ish edge. Really nice pure fruit playing upon a flowery Chambolle backdrop. All very clean, clear and fresh and, when put alongside the soft, velvety tannins, one got a seductively femenine wine that was just delicious to drink. A spicy twist at the finish added a bit more interest and playfulness. Primary, but very yummy. Like its Vosne Barreaux cousin, this should reward mid-term aging.

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• 2003 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Pretty good stuff. This seemed to be one of the growing number of 2003 red Burgs that appear to be on a long, slow march towards drinkability. It had a lovely nose with little of the overt roastedness that has come up often with this vintage. Here, there were dark fruit scents nestling amidst savoury sous bois, mushroom and meat scents, some gentle minerality and a bit of Chinese herbs. The palate showed quite a layer mouth-coating tannins, but this were finely shaped rather than coarse. That aside, the wine almost had an elegant edge to it, with surprising balance to its dense, rich dark fruit flavours. Quite a bit of power, but the wine was entirely well proportioned. The finish had more spice notes, some meatiness and, finally, just that hint of dry 2003 woodiness. I liked it, and I do think that this will continue to improve over the next decade and perhaps even longer.

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• 2006 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  This was very good indeed. The nose was rather tight, showing some funky soild notes and a whiff of sweet cherries but nothing much in the way of complexity. The palate was really solid though. After the sweet fruit on the nose, it had a surprisingly savoury backdrop, not quite meaty, not earthy either, more umami-ish. This was a very nice counterpoint to the still primary sweet dark fruit and black cherry flavours that spread across the palate on a bed of melting tannins and beautifully fresheness. The zippy acidity laced the wine all the way into the long, detailed finish which filled the mouth with fresh fruit notes. There was a really good sense of structrue all around that bodes very well for the wine's future. Excellent stuff.

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• 2000 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Cuvée des Alouettes 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

  This had developed quite a bit since the past couple of bottles. The nose showed slightly funky secondary notes of sous bois, damp soil, meat and a dark fruit background. The palate had softened into a velvety feel, and was quite ready to go. The dark cherry, earth and rusty mineral notes were rather simple and a bit rustic, but there was a nice amount of power and a charming earthy warmth to the wine. The finish had decent length too, closing out with a touch of spice.

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• 2007 Emmanuel Rouget Bourgogne Passetoutgrains 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

  More Beaujolais than Cote d'Or, this was a simple, quaffable drink. Nice nose showed pretty cherries, some cola and a waft of flowers. Palate was very simple, a bit spritzy, with cherry cola, almost a bit of cough syrup notes, along with a pat of earth. Hardly any tannins to speak of, but there was lots of acidity that kept the wine super-fresh. Pleasant enough for what it is.

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• 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  I actually thought this was very, very nice. Lots of complexity on the nose - earth, soil, mushrooms, meat, iron mineral and fleshy red fruit scents. Very classic Gevrey bouquet. The palate was opened for business. Round, full, with a beautiful lushness to its sappy red cherry flavours augmented by touches of earth, meat and truffly mushrooms. The finish was long and juicy, with a full fruited tail laced by a lick of mineral. Really nice stuff. From the notes on CT and the two bottles for tasting (one being much poorer than another), there seems to be quite a bit of bottle variation with this wine. This bottle at least was very solid and drinking wonderfully.

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• 2006 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Morey St. Denis 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis

  Decent but not great. I did not quite like the nose. It was a bit tight, but what came across quite clearly was a sweet, almost candied cherry note. The palate was surprisingly pleasant after that though. Fresh, open and very drinkable, it showed primary cherry notes, sweet but not confected here, and a little pat of minerally earth moving into a nice round finish. Given the balance, depth and openly knit structure, this was actually a pretty decent village.

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• 2007 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

  Really tight, but this was oozing quality. The nose was subtle, but really nice, with wonderfully integrated scents of dusty earth, dark cherries, mineral and a bit of herb. The palate had qutie full-on Pommard structure, with firm tannins and good acidity standing out quite a bit, but the quality of the fruit below was quite astounding. In spite of the flavours being rather clenched, a bit closed, there was still a sense of great purity and transperancy to the dark fruited tones - almost Grand Cru like in this aspect. Along with the extract, structure and balance, this came across as a very full, very complex wine with not a hair out of place from its attack into a long finish, where some herb notes nestled amongst a final pull of tannins. This needs patience, lots of it, but it is clearly a wine of breed and class, and should be one of the longer-lived 2007 reds. In fact, I would not touch this for a good decade or more down the road unless I had cases of it.

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• 2006 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  I have always liked this bottling from Jadot, and this wine underscored why. It had a very nice Bueane nose of sous bois, earth, strawberries and flowers. Very enjoyable on the palate too. Sweet red fruit, perfurmy flowers, another toss of earthiness, all in a clean, balanced package. It still showed a bit of the hardness of youth towards the back-palate, where the decently long finish was more earthy and minerally, but all in all I liked it quite a bit.

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• 2005 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  It takes a bit of a masochist to taste a 2005 Corton at a time when even the softer 2005s are all but shut down, but I must that this was very impressive. Tight, clenched, unyielding, but very impressive all the same. I was not over the moon about the nose - it was all a bit too sweet and primary at this point, with sugary scents of crushed cherries and raspberries with little bits of earth and flower tossed into the mix. No doubt it will tone down over the years, but it was the palate that really impressed me on the day. Very structured, as would be expected, with finely shaped but firm tannins and fine acidity giving the wine a solid, extremely well built feel. Again, very tight, with a generous stream of minerality taking the forefront all the way from the attack the long, stony finish that clung to the palate impressively. Beneath that though, there was a bubbling depth of pure and very transparent dark fruit, true Grand Cru stuff, with rich sweetness nestling amidst a bed of savoury earth. Structure and acid, the mineral and fruit, all were very nicely integrated so that the wine came across as a really complete whole. One for the long, distant future. I would not touch this for at least 15 years, preferably more, but it should make a really excellent wine when it peaks.

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• 2008 Joseph Drouhin Clos Vougeot 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

  A very nice wine. Young, but with quite a lot of substance. Rather unexpectedly sweet on the nose, with slightly candied cherries alongside very Clos Vougeot notes of mint and bramble. The palate was rather more reserved with rich but not overtly sweet dark cherry flavours. It was nicely layered with a lot of substance, but nicely balanced and elegant in spite of its weight. A fine-boned tannin structure added a nice sense of firmness as the wine closed off in a long, meaty finish. It was very harmoniously integrated, which made it surprisingly approachable. This was a classy Clos Vougeot that should age really well.

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• 2007 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurène 92 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

  Definitely one of the better new world Pinots at the tasting. Like so many other bottles of Domaine Drouhin wines, this was clearly new world, but had a Burgundian nous and finesse. The nose showed sweet notes of winter melon, cherries, brambly herbs and some white peppery spice notes on a little bed of earth. Nicely complex. The palate had a really nice velvety texture, good depth and a really expreesive openness. It took on the sweet cherry tones of the nose, almost a bit too sweet for my tastes, but this was nicely balanced and supported by well integrated acidity and fine tannins. The finish was long, with a nice spicy tail. Solid stuff. Still quite primary, but this too should age very well.

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• 2008 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

  Strange wine this. Objectively quite good indeed, but not really to my tastes. The nose was quite tight, with sweet cherry scents floating out of the glass alongside stony mineral, earth and plenty of spice notes. It was the palate were the wine really showed its character. Sure, there was lots of depth and intensity and a layered richness to the palate. However, it was stylistically very mocern, with rich red fruit coming across almost liquered. Fine tannins added a good sense of structure and there was decent balance, but at the moment, this was all about rich, primary fruit. It was only on the finish that some mineral and earth showed up along with a trace of new oak influence. I think this was objectively the best wine of the three Pascal Marchand wines I tried, and it should age very well, in fact I would not touch it for at least a decade, but at the moment I am somehow not sure I like the style.

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• 2008 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Mazy-Chambertin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Like the Clos de Beze, an objectively good wine, but not quite up my alley stylistically. It had a nice nose for sure - very Mazis in its wildness, with meat, spice, brambly dark cherries, orange peel hints and a slight woodiness. The palate was rather more modern than the nose gave out. There was a good breadth of flavours, but it was clearly the rich, sappy sweet cherry fruit that was at the fore. Great intensity and depth here, but just a bit too sweet and in-you-face on the attack the moment. Otherwise, there was a nice balance and a good sense of presence througout. The finish was long and juicy, rounding the wine off quite well. This is another wine that needs a lot of time. At the moment, it was rather too primary to enjoy. I would say at least 10 years with this wine as well.

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• 2008 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  The last of a trio of Pascal Marchand Gevreys. Like its Grand Cru big brothers, this had some quality to it, but given that it was a step down from the first two wines, the overtly sweet, ripe style stood out more jarringly. The nose had an almost candied aspect to its sweet cherry scents along with a floral top-note. As would be expected after that, the palate was rich, thick and full. It was better than the nose though, less overwhelmingly sweet, with a really nice mouthfull of red fruit butressed by fine tannins and good acidity leading into a juicy finish with decent length. A bit simple at the moment, but this too should get much better with age. I would be tempted to toass this aside and forget about it for at least 6-7 years before broaching another bottle.

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• 2009 Stonier Pinot Noir Reserve 90 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula

  Very new world, but pretty good. The nose was a lot sweeter than I am normally used to, but it was really attractive, with sweet candied cherries, flowers and earth all wafting out of the glass in a perfumed melange. The palate was not quite as nice as the nose. Here, the sweetness of the cherry fruit was at the forefront and it seemed rather simple and primary. There was a nice balance though and good depth. The finish was decent, open, fresh with touch of bramble at the backend. Good material, but painfully young. If older vintages are anything to go by, this should tone down and get much better with 5-6 years in the bottle.

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• 2007 Stonier Pinot Noir Windmill 91 Points

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula

  I thought this was actually quite good. Like the Reserve, it had a very nice nose, with flowers, dark cherries, earth, stony mineral and just a touch of stems - it could almost be a Burg with a bouquet like that. The palate was clearly not though. There was a pronounced sweetness to its dark cherry flavours, however these were clean, clear very pure, and everything was nicely balanced and well carried on some melting tannins. The finish was long, open and generous. I likeed this. Extremely modern, sweet new wordly stuff, but it seems to be on an upward trajectory and should age very well. Given the quality of fruit and structure, I would really like to try this again in 5 years' time.

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• 2008 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir 89 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  A very decent new world pinot. I really liked the nose one this one - it had really fresh scents of sour cherries, a touch of green herbs and some mineral, all very lifted and attractive. Sweet, but not confected. The palate was similarly attractive. Sweeter than the nose, but again not overblown, with fruity cherries and a bit of spice held in nice balance. Finish was pretty decent too. This was simple, but eminently drinkable. I can see it improving with age as its sheds its baby fat and puts on some complexity as well.

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• 2009 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir 88 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

  Decent, but really too young and primary to gauge well. The nose was very nice - perfumed, musky, with flowers nestling alongside red cherry scents and dusty earth. The palate was rather simpler - very primary cherries along with little hints of spice, bramble and mint at the finish. Charming, high-toned stuff, decently balanced, but needs some time.

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• 2008 Seresin Pinot Noir Sun and Moon 92 Points

  New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

  Wow - this was surprisingly good. Far and away the best Marlborough pinot I have ever had. The nose was much more than your run-of-the-mill Marlborough, with sweet cherries mingling with earth, bramble and mint. The palate was really serious stuff though. It had a solid backdrop, with a nicely textured mouthfeel, a rich, layered mid-palate and fine structure and fresh balance that framed cool flavours of dark cherry, earth, bramble and a touch of mint alongside bittersweet herbs at the lengthy finish. Very young, not quite together, but there was a nice core of strength and depth here. Not quite sure it is worth the US$150 entry price, but it was an impressive wine.

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