Hobart, Tasmania
Tasted Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - Thursday, April 21, 2011 by graemeg with 613 views
The Easter visit to Hobart allows a quick round of the nearby must-visit wineries, plus one "surprise" visit after a 7-year absence.
MONA - the Museum of Old and New Art - is Tasmania's newest (and privately-owned) attraction, built on the site of the old Moorilla facility.
It's full of things intended to shock, surprise, stun, it's really unmissable - and it's free. The old Moorilla labels are gone, replaced by the slick avant-garde Praxis and rudey-nudey Muse packaging.
The on-site restaurant has mixed reviews. Prices are a bit aspirational...
The aristocrat of the Derwent. Always worth a visit to taste. If you want to try the A$85 'Sasso' pinot, get there on Sunday, when it's open.
I'm left a bit unmoved by the Estate pinot post-2005; which is disappointing as it's the wine I really want to love. Riesling is generally under-rated here, and their sauvignon isn't bad either
The usual bizarre collection of wines at Domain A. Some sold out, some not yet available; this is what happens when a winery releases things for sale when they're considered ready and not before.
The wines I really wanted to try; both pinots and the 2005 Cab, are September releases.
Stoney Vineyard is the second label of Domaina A.
Really coming on in leaps and bounds as their vineyard resources mature and global warming takes hold.
Regular pinots are quite good value, especially in a Tasmanian context.
Disclosure: the Pooley family are acquaintences/neighbours of my in-laws. I did buy a six-pack of wines here; at list price, but with freight to Sydney ($16) waived.
Quite the surprise. I 'ducked' in here against my better judgement - Craigow was closed and I wasn't intereted in Meadowbank - because of a grim visit here back in 2004.
Everything then was brand spanking new (only just opened), including the vineyard, and the result was a truly disappointing collection of overpriced and (in the case of the reds) under-ripe wines.
The pinot was so bad I vowed never to go back, but increasingly complimentary write-ups in Halliday's guide, and the fact Puddleduck was obviously still in business 7 years later was enough to prompt the visit.
Generally, wines are getting better all the time, even if prices still reflect the boutique approach of the Tasmanian makers. The average mixed case of 'decent wine' seesm to run around $400 from a cellar door, a good 30% higher than typical in NSW/SA/Vic wineries.
2006 Moorilla Muse Brut
Australia, Tasmania, Tamar Valley
(4/20/2011)
{cork, A$49} A youthful but leesy, strawberry/pinot dominated nose. Fresh palate (has 4 years on lees) with an explanatorily tart mouthfeel, with wonderfully fine bubbles in a crisp, yet beguiling, bone-dry aperitif style. You'd buy a load of this until you saw the price...
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2004 Moorilla Muse Brut Rosé
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(4/20/2011)
{cork, A$49} Strawberry and currant nose, all finely etched. Flavours are vaguley in the blush/musk spectrum, with gentle strawberry overtones. Same fine bubbles as the 06 brut version, with a long, bone-dry, crispy medium-long finish. Fine effort, but at a price.
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2008 Moorilla Riesling Muse
Australia, Tasmania, Southern Tasmania
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, 13.7%, A$25} Aromas of lime and chalk. A high-acid, full-bodied palate of citrus-related flavours, with a dense texture and a longish, dry, but rather warm finish. A big bruiser of a riesling, not something you encounter too often. Probably a drink-earlier-rather-than-later proposition on that score, but a pleasing wine at this age.
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2008 Moorilla Gewürztraminer Muse
Australia, Tasmania
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, 14.1%, A$35} Low intensity nose of roses, pink flowers, musk and pear. The flavours follow the nose, forming a dense and warm textured wine on the palate, but with barely low-medium acid on offer, it turns out to be a rather flabby (although dry) experience, with a short-medium finish of no great excitement. And they want HOW much money?
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2010 Moorilla Chardonnay Musqué Praxis
Australia, Tasmania, Coal River
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, A$28} Modern, clean & youthful grapefruit and nuts/oak aromas. Dry, with medium acidity and a light-medium body, this has clean nut and melon flavours, with subtle oak, although there's not much presence once it reaches the mid-palate. A tidy effort and a better buy than premium wine under the Moorilla 'muse' label, at least in the immediate term.
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2008 Moorilla Chardonnay Muse
Australia, Tasmania
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, 13.6%, A$45} Similar profile to its more modestly priced 'praxis' sibling, but here the aromas of grapefruit, oak, nuts, cedar with a briney touch are more generally intense and powerful. With medium acid and medium-weight, it has a more buttery texture overall, despite near-total lack of malolactic influence. There's a bit more presence here on the mid-palate too, but with rather mellow flavours (per the aromas) it doesn't really feel like a dimension beyond the cheaper (& younger) wine, just more volume. A nice wine for the next few years, but you're paying for what you get, not potential here.
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2010 Moorilla Pinot Noir Praxis
Australia, Tasmania
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, A$28} A youthful and bright all-fruit nose of cherry & strawberry. Clean palate, medium acidity, a very light touch with oak; indeed there are only faint grapey tannins on offer here making up a light-bodied wine with a cherry-fruit focus and a short finish. Fair wine, marginal value.
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2009 Moorilla Pinot Noir Muse
Australia, Tasmania
(4/20/2011)
{screwcap, 14%, A$49} Unlike the 'praxis' wines, sourced from all across Tasmania, the 'muse' label is all estate fruit (from the banks of the Derwent). This has a youthful nose of dark chocolate, black cherries and a generally red perfume sort of quality to it. The palate offers some density of flavour, with a touch of smoked meat and dark red fruits. It's medium-full bodied, with fairly subtle oak but quite finely persistent tannins, and a good even balance of presence along the tongue. The absolute finish only comes in at about medium length; this would be an easy recommend at two-thirds the price, but fifty bucks is getting serious. Probably at peak within five years.
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