Bernard Burtschy dinner at Taberna del Alabardero

Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C.
Tasted Wednesday, May 1, 2013 by dcwino with 730 views

Introduction

Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member, was in town to conduct the heart's delight grand tasting and Bijan organized a dinner to honor Bernard. Twelve of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero and drank Burgundy and Bordeauxs.

Bernard gave his impression of the wines and gave detailed back ground which were very interesting. Other than the Madeira served at the end, all the wines were French.

Flight 1 - 96 Oeno (1 Note)

Justin C mentioned that the 96 champagnes have been inconsistent lately and Bernard said Chardonnay is evolving faster than anticipated. Time to organize a 96 Champagne dinner.

Flight 2 - Whies (5 Notes)

All showed wonderfully except Verget.

  • 2010 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore 93 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

    Pop and pour, wet stone, mineral, clean white fruits. With only a bit of air, honey, mint, perfume and seashell. Beautiful cool and clean palate, lovely lemon zest in the finish. Bernard informed us that the wine is straight and I agree. There are a lot of different flavors but the expression is very linear. Lovely wine.

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  • 2005 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Lanoline, flint, honey, light caramel and a hint of oak, a typical nose one expects from Laville HB. Fat palate and good concentration. It is already quite enjoyable but slightly lacks the precision.

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  • 2000 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Initially some thought not correct but Bernard informed us that the wine is fine. Initially honey, light caramel, apple, yellows fruits, sesame and mineral. With time the nose becomes fresher and more complex by adding a bit of white fruits and noticeable smoke. Creamy palate. Quite nice but seems slightly lacking bright acidity.

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  • 1995 Verget Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Vieilles Vignes 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    The 90s Verget wines are very ripe and this is no exception. Some thought oxidized but based on tasting a number of Verget, it is a very ripe wine that didn’t age too well. If you have a bottle, decant for an hour or two, need to be drunk soon actually a bit too late.

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  • 1988 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Bernard told us that this is at the beginning of the drinking window and I completely agree. Initially subtle nose of beeswax, smoke, fresh oyster juice, seawater and a hint of honey. Seamless and energetic palate, bright acidity and lovely long finish. It is incredibly young. With air, it opened up more, similar flavor profile as earlier but more expressive. It is so darn young, very impressive.

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Flight 3 - Burgundy (4 Notes)

What a wonderful flight! Unfortunately it started to go downhill from here.

  • 1996 Joseph Drouhin Chambertin 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    The nose is all about beautiful pure red fruits, raspberry and strawberry essence. There is also a hint of minerality. Bernard pointed out the big middle palate which is typical of Chambertin and I completely agree. The nose clearly tells me that the palate should be delicate yet it is not the case. The palate is surprisingly masculine and displays riper earthy fruit expression. The wine is very youthful. This is an excellent showing. I would say this is almost like the Rousseau version minus sweet spices. Highly recommend.

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  • 1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

    There is noticeable fizziness that doesn’t blow off. Bright red fruits, a hint of sous bois. A bit earthier nose but not as structured compare to the 96 Drouhin Chambertin. A bit of fizz masks the purity in fruit expression. Bernard explained that Latricieres is located on the upper slopes of GC which causes the wine to have higher acidity and to age slower compare to the other GC GCs. This youthful wine is quite enjoyable.

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  • 1993 Jean-Pierre Mugneret Echezeaux 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    It starts slow, somewhat muted nose of mushroom and earth. Dark fruit expression. The palate is also a bit hard. With air, the nose becomes more expressive, a hint of Asian spices and light caramel. The palate also softens as the fruit gets sweeter. This wine is for those who look for earthy black fruits as the fruit expression isn’t that pure.

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  • 2001 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    According to Bernard, this is formerly the Jayer’s plot. A few of us commented on how strong the producer signature is in Leroy wines. Sweet ripe fruits that remains red, most delicious stewed tomato, floral and sesame/toast and flower, all classic Leroy flavors for me. Excellent concentration, bright acidity and long finish. This is a lovely wine.

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Flight 4 - How Cruel (5 Notes)

Corked, uninspiring, thin, too mature and heat damaged.

Flight 5 - Another cruel flight (5 Notes)

The Ausone was excellent and the Bel-Air Marquis was fascinating. Unfortunately our luck ended there.

  • 1967 Château Ausone 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Coming from the same batch as the last bottle that showed extremely well. Subtle and refine nose displaying flowers, smoked oyster, cedar, light caramel and green peppercorn. Sweet burgundian palate, medium concentration, fully integrated tannins and lovely finish. I believe this has always been a medium to light weight wine. Lovely claret but no need to wait.

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  • 1966 Château Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    Bernard kindly contributed this fascinating wine. According to Bernard the equal portion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Apparently Chateau Margaux had the similar composition in the 19th century. Light red color and the nose reflects that, bright red fruits, a hint of tapenade, cedar and a hint of green that adds complexity. Although delicate, it remained expressive for awhile. Lovely wine.

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  • 1966 Château Palmer Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    VA juice, shame.

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  • 1970 Château Palmer Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    The same source as the 66. Very pale color, DOA.

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  • 1967 Château Haut-Brion Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    DOA, not a good day for Haut Brion

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Flight 6 - Sauternes (3 Notes)

  • 1983 Château de Fargues 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Deserved to be called the baby D’Yquem. Lovely nose displaying strong botrytis note, apricot, yellow peach, ginger and a hint of petrol coming from botrytis that adds complexity. Excellent concentration, chewy palate, bright acidity and long finish. Not as intense and air as D’Yquem but very close. Just lovely wine that is drinking beautifully. Highly recommend.

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  • 1976 Château d'Yquem 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    What I love about D’Yquem is clearly displayed here, intense yet delicate, think yet airy. Perfectly ripe apricot and yellow peach, caramel, vanilla and crèmes brulee. Beautiful silky, unctuous yet airy palate, bright acidity and long finish. Lovely showing.

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  • 1983 Château Climens 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Acquired from Sothebys only a year ago. Flat, candied fruits, did I say it was really flat? No match to the other two Sauternes.

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Closing

We also had the 1878 Justino Henriques Filhos Lad which seems too madeirized. This was pop and pour but perhaps 48 hours of decanting would have helped. It was fun to share wines with Bernard in my home town once again!

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