Montrachet Dinner: 10 Vintages of Ramonet and Marquis de Laguiche, 1983-2002

Oceana - New York NY
Tasted Wednesday, April 5, 2017 by Burgundy Al with 432 views

Introduction

A wonderful wine workshop and dinner, with all bottles from a single cellar of a well know aficionado of great white Burgundy. All bottles were opened 15-30 minutes before serving, and served at approximately cellar temperature.

Flight 1 (5 Notes)

  • 2002 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Starts off very ripe and rich but seemingly less harmonious vs another bottle from a few months ago. This slowly started to fade in glass from there. Perhaps 92-93 point wine to start, then a point lower when finished 30 minutes later, but This wasn't a perfect bottle.

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  • 2002 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Rich and somewhat tropical with world class concentration. Great structure kept this is almost perfect balance, despite the ripeness.

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  • 2001 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    A great and complex array of ripe and tangy apple aromas and flavors with mint and anise. Great concentration, perfect balance. Elegant throughout. Even better when finished after 2 hours in glass vs when first poured.

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  • 2001 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Rich and tropical, which was more fun and enjoyable on the nose vs palate. Good+ weight, moderate length. I don't expect much upside from here.

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  • 2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Served double blind as a "bonus" alongside the wines in the flight. Super elegant with quiet density that made me think it Grand Cru. Very long and elegantly styled with an expanding finish.

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Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2000 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Lots of great things here, but somehow this didn't seem in perfect harmony. I don't think I have ever had this vintage before, so don't know if consistent. 91 points today, so still very good, but I would think there is more here than what showed for us tonight. Odd.

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  • 2000 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Tropical and very rich, like many of the other vintages of this wine tonight, and once again with the structure and energy to retain very good harmony. Good life ahead here.

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  • 1996 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Very dark color, very advanced. Still pleasant and drinkable, but that isn't enough for Montrachet.

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  • 1996 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Perhaps the surprise of the evening - this was possibly the best of tonight's 10 vintages of Laguiche. Ripe apple and baked apple. Dense and almost meaty with great weight and great length. Very balanced and integrated.

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Flight 3 (4 Notes)

  • 1995 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    What a positive surprise vs expectations. Subtle and very elegant start-to-finish, but with great intensity and energy. Great fruit and charming mint notes, but textures are the superstar here.

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  • 1995 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Ripe and powerful with nicely maturing stone fruit. Long, powerful finish is the most expressive and fun part here. Good life remaining here.

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  • 1992 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Subdued aromas were confusing, but a powerful and expressive palate of apple, quince, nutmeg and wintergreen. Massive concentration. Perhaps ever-so-slightly corked, masking the nose, then shortening the finish with more time in glass. 89 point nose, 97 point palate to start, then slowly declining. But this was still in my "top 5" of the evening with such great flavors and concentration!

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  • 1992 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Dark color, Sherried aromas were mostly unappealing. Much better palate with good flavors, very good concentration. But not a correct bottle, compared to previous examples.

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

  • 1990 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Also very ripe, this started with a great array of stone and orchard fruits with rich spice notes. Less opulent from middle to finish, where lots of nuance emerges, as it starts showing great textural finesse. Very long finish. A very elegant 1990.

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  • 1990 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    One of the riper examples of this wine this evening, but with the concentration and substantive structure to retain great balance. Lots of power, finesse and fun, in charming combination. To John, this wine was tonight's Miss Congeniality.

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  • 1989 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Magic. Ripe throughout with plenty of energy. Floral and spice and everything nice.

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  • 1989 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Poached pear and ripe apple aromas and flavors, all maturing evenly and nicely. Very good weight, moderate length. Ok it wasn't the Ramonet, but a wonderful wine at its peak.

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Flight 5 (4 Notes)

  • 1986 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    What a sad disappointment. Very dark color and the extreme maturity to match. Good bottles are amongst the great white Burgundies in the world today, but tonight's bottle was not one of those. Barely drinkable, not enjoyable.

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  • 1986 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Honeycomb and baked apple with good density, concentration and surprising balance and freshness for the vintage. Maturing gracefully, but still time to enjoy this now.

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  • 1983 Domaine Ramonet Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    A very odd wine. Great color for any white wine at this age. Lots of botrytis aromas and flavors with sweet hints and lots of complexity from said botrytis, but that's all that is really coming through. Rich start, while not as exciting or nuanced or complex from the middle forward. Frankly, if served blind I would not have put Grand Cru Burgundy in my first five answers for what this wine might be, but I certainly enjoyed it as a glass of wine!

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  • 1983 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    Dark color. Certainly very mature aromas and flavors, but vestiges of enough energy to still provide enough freshness and enjoyment. Very good length. Drink up yesterday.

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Flight 6 - A few bonus bottles apres Montrachet (4 Notes)

  • 2012 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Bright summer day with freshly cut grass, then ripe lemons for that lemonade. Good hints of licorice and spice. Very good concentration. Lots and lots of structure, not quite seemingly in harmony yet, but I like the potential a lot as this softens, probably 2020 forward.

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  • 2000 Château La Conseillante 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Popped and poured. Black plum, black berries and cassis with a ripe character that dominates everything, so showing little spice or nuance yet today. Very tasty and foreshadowing very good+ potential, but this isn't quite living up to 2000 expectations, even while hinting at achieving them. Cellar longer.

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  • 1982 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate 89 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Popped and poured. Charming aromas of matured black plum and earth with some tobacco. Less exciting flavors are slightly more earth-driven and tired, but still enjoyable overall.

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  • 1982 Château de Fargues 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Bottle in perfect condition. Dried apricot and beeswax. Sweet but not cloying with good botrytis nuance. Good+ concentration and length with very good+ balance. Certainly top notch for the vintage.

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