Cal Cabs

Chez Bruce, London
Tasted Tuesday, May 9, 2017 by SimonG with 432 views

Introduction

Very consistent and well made wines. The Montebellos cut from the same cloth and providing the drinking pleasure for me, just a little cooler and fresher, and good value in the company. The other wines good, and all the Cal Cabs on show were four star wines. Stylistically all of the same ilk, and by the last flight I found it relatively hard work — any one or two of these would delight over a long dinner, but the volume and similarities made the comparisons a little tiring.

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Flight 2 (3 Notes)

  • 2001 Joseph Phelps Insignia 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Dense full ruby. Gorgeous nose. Plush and dense. Cassis cut through with a wet gravel note. Dense but surprisingly cool attack. Blackcurrant leaf. Again, a slightly minerally edge on the finish when revisiting. ****

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  • 2006 Dominus Estate 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    A little more restrained on the nose. Fairly pure blackcurrant. Slightly sweeter, obviously riper fruit than a claret would be, but drier and more chiselled than the Caymus. Comes in to its own with food. ****

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  • 2003 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 93 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Denser and slightly more herbal on the nose. A savoury edge to the blackcurrant fruit. Very rounded, sweet-fruited attack. Broad and expansive without any jaminess. Could do with a splash more acidity on the finish but very drinkable. ****

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • 1993 Ridge Monte Bello 93 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Cool, slightly minty blackcurrant fruit. Poised and balanced. A little fresher acidity cf previous wines tonight. Understated elegance in the Cal-Cab context. A wine one can drink and enjoy several glasses of. ****

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  • 1996 Ridge Monte Bello 93 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    A bit riper and fuller on the palate. Not quite as precise and poised, but very good. Possibly more rounded and complete. On a par with the 93, just a minor stylistic difference within the tight Ridge spectrum. ****

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  • 1998 Ridge Monte Bello 91 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Initially a little stewed on the nose, but this seems to blow off and clear. A little difuse and a little less convincing cf its peers. Still very good but just shaded in the company. ****

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

  • 1992 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 92 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    Perhaps the most classical blackcurrant nose of the evening. Very dense. Needs years. Obviously high quality but quite hard to judge. **(**)

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  • 1991 Ridge Monte Bello 94 Points

    USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

    Similar cool, elegant nose, but just a touch riper and plusher than the other vintages tonight, possibly the slightly higher Merlot content. Really lovely, this doesn't have the slightly lactic edge of a bottle earlier in the year. Feels a little leaner, in a good, refreshing way, upon return. Lithe. ****1/2

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  • 1991 Dominus Estate Napanook Vineyard 91 Points

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Fragrant and quite evolved on the nose, but tauter with a more licorice element to the palate. A porty spirit ones on the nose too. Develops coffee mocha aromas too. Interesting and quite fun, but just a bit too relaxed. bare ****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

  • 1978 Fonseca Porto Guimaraens Vintage 90 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Evolved pale to mid tawny. Nicely sweet and resolved. Nose of red fruit but a more figgy element coming through. Maturing towards a tawny style which endears it to me. Good but possibly a little atypical for VP. ***1/2

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