A week in Paris - with a side trip to Reims
Tasted Thursday, June 8, 2017 - Wednesday, June 14, 2017 by retired_and_roving with 698 views
Introduction
We were attending a weekend celebration in Paris for the 50th birthday of a very close friend so added some days on to round out the week. Had some great opportunities to taste some memorable wines at the celebration and at dinners in Paris as well as squeezing in a day trip to Reims for tasting at Dom Ruinart and Vilmart & Cie. The weather was exceptional, the company was the best, the food and wine were tremendous - all in all a very memorable week.
Flight 1 - 50th Birthday Wine Tasting Event at De Vinis Illustribus (4 Notes)
De Vinis Illustribus is an old wine shop located in the 5th arrondissement, just down the street from the steps that were featured in the Woody Allen film, "Midnight in Paris". Lionel Michelin specializes in older wines and conducts private tasting events in the cellar of the shop. The place and Lionel were all very charming and the tasting was accompanied by 2 year aged Comte cheese from their local cheese monger, fresh baguettes and organic burgundy ham and salami. All the wines were really in a nice place. The WOTN for me was the Mugnier which was outstanding, although the Texier Cote-Rotie was also really nice. The 50 year birth year wine - 1967 Chateau Laroze was in great shape and very fresh and enjoyable and the Mailly champagne was a new and pleasant discovery. The tasting ended with Lionel giving birth year wine recommendations for all twelve attendees, unfortunately my birth year was a total wash out and it was recommended that I stick with port.
Flight 2 - Private 50th Birthday Tasting Dinner at Guy Savoy (6 Notes)
Hands down the most amazing meal and dining experience of my life. I have eaten at many three michelin star restaurants, but this was by far the best food, service and ambience I have ever experienced. We were in a private room, on a corner so had views of the Seine in two directions. The table was an elliptical shape which made for easy conversation with a group of fourteen people. The chairs also were so comfortable and they pivoted like and office chair to facilitate the ease of interactions. We did a tasting menu with nine announced courses, but there were many surprises and additions that kept coming so we sort of lost track. While all the food was amazing, the stand out dishes for me were the Artichoke soup with black truffle, and layered truffled mushroom brioche, the Caviar with smoked sabayon and the Stuffed-roasted saddle of lamb. The dinner lasted for a full five hours and needed at 1 am - time just slid by very comfortably. The wines that accompanied the meal were outstanding, hard to choose favorites, but the '88 Mouton from magnum, the '67 d'Yquem and the '00 Damoy Close de Beze were all remarkable. We also had an additional champagne served between the Mouton and the d'Yquem, but the label was torn and I did not get the vintage - it was a Dom Ruinart from what appeared to be an older vintage - served with Saint Nectare farmstead cheese and champagne jellies - the perfect palate cleanser to freshen up the taste buds after the big reds. Truly a remarkable evening!!!
Flight 3 - Dom Ruinart Tasting Visit (4 Notes)
The cave visit and hospitality at Dom Ruinart are really great and I would highly recommend this visit.
Flight 4 - Vilmart & Cie Tasting Visit (4 Notes)
Vilmart & Cie is about a 15 taxi ride outside of Riems and the experience is the polar opposite of Dom Ruinart. They do not do cave visits except for larger groups that are pre-arranged. Mostly it is a visit to the tasting room to taste their delicious wines - no more than 1 hour. We really enjoyed the visit and were able to buy some of their wines to bring home at a tremendous discount to US prices.
Flight 5 - Wines from various dinners, lunches and plane rides. (7 Notes)
These wines were consumed with dinners or lunches before and after the celebration weekend. The standout of this grouping was clearly the 2012 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard from the wine list Le Comptoir. A total bargain at 90 euro and just delicious!
2004 Mailly Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée les Echansons
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
(6/9/2017)
Tasting event at De Vinis Illustribus (Paris). My first time with this producer and was very impressed. Perfectly aged champagne in a prime drinking window. Fine bubbles with racy acidity and lots of brioche with some hints of carmelized honey- very lovely! Have never come across this in the U.S., but will definitely seek it out now.
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2008 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
(6/9/2017)
Tasting event at De Vinis Illustribus (Paris). Wow this was just gorgeous, starting with the expressive floral and earth laden perfumed nose. On the palate cherries and raspberries,wrapped in earth and minerals, lightly dancing across the tongue and then lingering there for 2 minutes - a real stand out.
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2006 Eric Texier Côte-Rôtie Vieilles Vignes
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
(6/9/2017)
Tasting event at De Vinis Illustribus (Paris). After the Mugnier - Clos de La Marechale, really switching directions with a more powerful and rustic, yet mature and delicious wine. Drinking well now but will probably continue to hold and/or improve for at least 10 years. Dark fruited, with bacon, black olive savoriness and a bit of smoky pepper. My 2nd favorite wine of the tasting after the Mugnier.
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1967 Château Laroze
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
(6/9/2017)
Tasting event at De Vinis Illustribus (Paris). We ended the tasting with a birth year wine in celebration of our friend's 50th birthday. Served from magnum - cork came out in one piece and wine was still very much alive. It started out a little reticent but improved with air. Fruit and acid are still quite youthful, color has some bricking. With time in the glass, cedar and leather start to show along with the red fruits. Good, but made better by the occasion and celebration.
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