(Non) Blind 2004 and Older Bordeaux

15 of us gathered at Meritage for a Bordeaux tasting. While I felt everyone brought wines of good quality, I was reminded that most Bordeaux needs a fair amount of age. I felt that over half the wines were not at their full potential.

• NV Philippe Prié Champagne Tradition Brut 88 Points

  France, Champagne

  Not as good as previous bottles. Maybe because the person who brought it was slow to open it, so we ended up opening a 2009 Roederer L'Ermitage first, which blew it out of the water. This just seemed plain. Nothing wrong with it, but unexciting.

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• 2009 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage Brut 91 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  So tempted to give this a 92, but I'll stick with 91 today. This is a fabulous sparkler. If served to me blind, I like to think that I'd guess champagne, because it truly does taste like it. There is elegance, robust yeast, baking spice.

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• 2012 Domaine Labet Chardonnay-Savagnin Vin de Voile 91 Points

  France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

  I must admit I was apprehensive about this wine, but man did it deliver. There was more richness than I expected, as if there was a substantial amount of malo. Creamy, rich, good acid, and definitely chardonnay.

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• 1993 Château Léoville Barton 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Slow o'd 7 hours. I did not know what to expect from this poor vintage from a good producer and a surprisingly low cellartracker average. I was pleasantly surprised. This wine is elegant and well-integrated. It has a lot of complexity, but is not that high-powered. It relies on its traditional claret characteristics. This was my favorite wine at the tasting, although I was not expecting that. 92-93

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• 2000 Château Haut-Bergey 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Decanted 2 hours. Incredibly Bordeaux in nature, and yet still quite youthful. I do not think this is fully mature, it is still on the upside.

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• 2000 Château Lascombes 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Tobacco, earth, red fruit. Tasty but young.

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• 2000 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  I enjoyed this as much as the last bottle, but it seemed more youthful. It certainly had wonderful complexity, earth, leather, forest floor and polished red fruit.

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• 2003 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Decanted 90 minutes and followed a good sized glass for 2+ hours. It has youthful Bordeaux properties, good complexity, tannins are strong. The fruit is enticing and to me the highlight at this time - kind of a red/black mix. There's enough secondary qualities right now to make it interesting, and its only getting better.

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• 2003 Château Figeac 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  I did appreciate this wine, and it is a cut above average. But it does seem like a hot mess, and I have had good luck with 2003 Bordeaux (not so 2003 California or Rhone). Rich ripe fruit, little in the way of evolved qualities. It really fell apart on day 2 (but thanks Jason for leaving 1/3rd bottle for me to take home and evaluate). I don't follow Figeac, and this bottle does not make me want to.

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• 2003 Château Pavie 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Having had this wine twice before and being quite unimpressed, I felt this bottle was starting to turn the corner. It is still clearly young in nature. But I didn't feel it was hot at all. I enjoyed the potential and the young Bordeaux qualities of this bottle. If I owned this wine, I would sit on it for at least 5 years. Maybe longer. Probably longer. Such is the nature of Bordeaux.

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• 2004 Château Montrose 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  A small pour. I love the Montrose elegance that is quite evident here. This was a beautiful, although young Montrose. If I owned any, I would think about opening them in 5 years.

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• 1999 Château Monbousquet 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Although I really did appreciate the Bordeaux characteristics of this wine, it was also incredibly youthful. There was a lot of complexity, along with a fair amount of teenage angst. From my perspective, I appreciate more evolved Bordeaux wines, but if you are a cradle robber, this may be a good target.

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• 2001 Château Guiraud 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Consistent with previous note. Frankly, 89 might be generous for this, but it does have a wonderful and typical Sauternes nose that no one would dislike. The palate, however, is confusing at best. I really don't know if this wine is not integrated, or it just never will be good. From my experience, 2001 Sauternes have been amazing from many producers, but I've had this wine 4 times (2 were my bottles, 2 others bottles) and it has never delivered to what I believe a 2001 Guiraud should be. With 4 bottles left, I don't know what to do. I may just sit on them until someone else brings one to a tasting and I like it.

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