95 Bordeaux @ Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor, Guildhall
Tasted Monday, March 21, 2022 by SimonG with 165 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 1995 Château Mazeris Flawed

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Canon-Fronsac

    Initial sense of richness on the nose, fruitcake and maturity, but then a slight edge, and on the palate horribly corked.

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  • 1995 Château Cissac 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Mid ruby. Traditional and uncompromising. Pretty robust. Still plenty of structure with the fruit just about hanging in there, but for how long? ***

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 1995 Château Haut-Bailly 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Nicely rich when double decanted, but tighter initially when re-broached two and a half hours later. Mellowed to a classic tobacco and warm gravel nose. Lovely and quite intense in a red-fruited way. Fresh and a little drier on the finish. Nicely fragrant. Fills with another hour or so of air. Really proper. ****

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  • 1995 Château Pape Clément 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A little darker than the Haut Bailey. Richer on the palate, darker too with some bacon fat. There’s a bit more density and stuffing here at the expense of some line and complexity. Rich but lacking some definition and complexity on the finish. Still, very good wine that possibly transcends the vintage. Half a shade behind the Haut Bailly for me. ****

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 1995 Château La Tour Carnet 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Slightly stewed plum nose against a cedary backdrop. A little dry. Similar to the Cissac with just a little more forced fruit. A little stewed in fact. ***

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  • 1995 Château La Lagune 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Plum duff nose, then more classic left bank cedar and sandlewood. Red fruited, nice line. Attractive. A strictness to the finish to keep things in check. This has really come on since a previous bottle in 2006. Lovely. ****

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 1995 Château Talbot 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Dense and relatively mute on the nose. Mid weight. A little surly. Could do with a little Cordier stable. Mellow enough but somewhat stolid and lacking line or energy. ***

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  • 1995 Château Pontet-Canet 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Dense though slightly muted blackcurrant nose. Dense with a touch of cedar on the palate. Hmm, not sure about the longevity here. Showed more brightly fifteen years ago. Sitting on half a case of this and I think I preferred it younger. We’ll see… bottle variation and all that. Still, there is quite a lot of wine here, so maybe on another day… Bare ****

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Flight 6 (2 Notes)

  • 1995 Château Lafon-Rochet 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    This is a lot darker and denser. Some polish on the top. There’s a slightly fresh, savoury edge here that cuts through nicely. Slightly fore square cf the Calon. Consistent with notes from ten to fifteen years back. ***1/2

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  • 1995 Château Calon-Ségur 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Again darker, quite savoury. A density to the blackcurrant leaf. Similar on the palate. Denser fruit, savoury blackcurrant leaf. A hint of bee pollen too in a finely chalky minerality. Dusty complexity. My favourite of the later wines. ****

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Flight 7 (1 Note)

  • 2004 Château Raymond-Lafon 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Light to mid gold. Fresh honeyed sweetness without overt botrytis. Light, sweet, peppered pineapple. Good acidity. Just a hint of a medicinal twang on the finish. A zip and line to this. Lip-smacking. ****

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