1972 Bordeaux horizontal tasting

Tasted Friday, September 2, 2022 by pavel_p with 116 views

Introduction

It is well known that 1972 was a horrible Bordeaux vintage. A cold and wet start to the year was followed by frost in April. Loads of rain in May, then a short blips of summer and more rain during early fall resulting in a rainy harvest.
Still we cannot pick the year we are born, and hence over the years, I have tried quite a few 1972 Bordeaux, not great wines but mostly still surprisingly drinkable. Also until only a few years back these 72 First Growth were rather affordable, and we were joking that evening about who could have paid for such a wine dinner if born only 10 years later...
So this 50th birthday was the ultimate occasion to invite a few vinophile friends and try all the First Growth and a few more side-by-side.
I played around with the idea of throwing in a few 1972 Burgundies blind into these Bordeaux flights for fun but in the end decided on a separate 1972 Burgundy flight out of fear that the considerably better Burgundy vintage could destroy those Bdx and render them Bdx undrinkable. Finally it was only one Burgundy that shone clearly above all other reds that evening..
All bottles were in very good condition with top shoulder fills, stored upright for a few weeks and just slow ox'ed (recorked with neutral cork) for about 2 hours before the dinner. All wines held up well over the 3h dinner and nothing really fell apart.

Flight 1 - Champagne (2 Notes)

We started with two bottles of a solid NV Champagne from the restaurants wine list to warm up before getting serious...

  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Esprit Nature 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    Two bottles from restaurant wine list. Fairly rich yellow fruit, medium sweetness. Solid Champagne, would happily trade in some of the richness for a bit more delineation and minerality.

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  • NV Veuve Clicquot Champagne Bicentenaire 1772-1972 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Our first "72" even though this is an NV and hence fruit would be from vintages around / before that year. Was not expecting anything here but I found this to be very good (even I did not see anybody else appreciating this). Golden color but still good freshness and even fine mousse providing a lift, deep fruit notes with orange peel, no oxidization whatsoever. Very impressive for an NV around the 50 year mark.

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Flight 2 - Burgundy (4 Notes)

Having had the Lamarche twice now, it has shown brilliantly on both occasions. Clearly WOTN for me, and that even though when I opened the bottle I was not sure it would be drinkable as it was showing somewhat musty and moldy on the nose, with none of the beautiful and aromatic red fruit that emerged latter.

  • 1972 Domaine Henri Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    When I opened this I had my doubts based on some moldy notes from the cork on the nose, by the time we got to it, this was however superb. First wine of first flight and from the first sip it was clear that this would likely be WOTN. Almost transparent in the glass with a pale ruby. Beautiful nose with very aromatic red fruit and earthy notes, light on the wonderful palate, no tannins whatsoever. Long finish. Wow - I have a few more of these and am looking forward to those.

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  • 1972 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre Chambolle-Musigny 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny

    Tough to follow the beautiful Grande Rue. This was clearly a step down in aromatics but still showing a nice balance of dark fruit and earth. Still a little tannins providing structure. Not particularly long but very pleasant.

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  • 1972 Domaine Voarick Corton-Clos des Fiètres 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    The most disappointing wine of the tasting. Some appreciated the fairly complex medicinal notes but the issue was that the wine was clearly oxidative despite the bottle being in a very good condition

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  • 1972 Tobel von Bruegger Vougeot Clos Vougeot 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot

    Clos Vougeot (from an unknown producer) bottled by Swiss importer Tobel von Bruegger. Fairly tired with a slight oxidative touch and just a notch better than the Voarick preceding it

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Flight 3 - Bordeaux mixed (4 Notes)

Nothing really stood out in this first Bordeaux flight. The Margaux considerably thinner and this confirming the difficult 70s period for this estate, the Haut Brion showing most promise in terms of fruit concentration but this particular bottle did not really convince..

  • 1972 Château Ausone 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    First wine of first Bdx flight. Second time having the 72 Ausone and again a solid showing. Healthy color, good medium (-) weight however fairy muted aromatics here with sous bois, some soil and a touch of fruit.

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  • 1972 Château Margaux 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    First time trying the 72 Margaux. This was very light but fairly acidic, reflecting the challenge of the vintage to get the fruit to some sort of ripeness. Perhaps Margaux added less sugar than others, and adding some of their own 71 woukd not have helped much with the concentration either…On the other hand and unlike many of the other Bdx the wine was very clean on the palate. An “honest” 72 Bdx?

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  • 1972 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    While better balanced than the Margaux with less prominent acidity this had a fair bit of musty notes and sous bois. Seemed a bit fresher than my previous bottle. Considerably less concentrated though than the Haut Brion next to it

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  • 1972 Château Haut-Brion 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Considerable more concentrated than the La Mission preceding it this still has some dark fruit joining the sous bois. Not very clean (bottle?) though

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Flight 4 - Bordeaux Pauillac (4 Notes)

To be added

  • 1972 Château Mouton Rothschild 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    First wine of Pauillac flight. Have had the 72 Mouton a couple times now and this bottle confirms the earlier tastings. Fairly thin with sous bois and a touch of remaining fruit.

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  • 1972 Château Lafite Rothschild 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Had the 72 Lafite before but saw it clearly behind the 72 Latour. Hence was surprised by how well this bottle was showing. Lighter in color than the other Bordeaux with a very pale transparent ruby. Very fragrant on nose and palate, a touch of red fruit, floral and earthy notes. Beautiful wine and best Bdx that evening. Would have put this into the Burgundy camp blind.

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  • 1972 Les Forts de Latour 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Never had the 72 Forts so was curious to try side by side with the Grand Vin, Lafite and Mouton. While a perfect bottle with bottom neck fill this was considerably thinner than the Grand Vin, with sous bois and a touch of remaining fruit. Similar to 72 Mouton in style and quality.

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  • 1972 Château Latour Grand Vin 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Have had the 72 Latour once or twice before and thought it was head and shoulders above the other First Growth in 72. But not today as the Lafite was showing better tonight. Good concentration but muted aromatics and not particularly interesting nor fun to drink. Could be bottle variation or perhaps simply getting a little long in the tooth

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Closing

Really a fun evening with great company and interesting but not really great wines!

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