A magnificent Mas de Daumas Gassac vertical from the private cellars of Allard Jakobs

Restaurant Sinck, Amsterdam, NL
Tasted Sunday, November 12, 2023 by Xavier Auerbach with 452 views

Introduction

A magnificent vertical tasting of an exceptional range of vintages assembled by a private collector. Almost all wines were acquired directly from the estate and kept in perfect conditions. Most were in magnums. The performance of the bottles reflected their immaculate provenance. Samuel and Aiden Guibert attended the tasting. Samuel provided invaluable comments and insights. A superb experience.

Flight 1 - Gassac Blanc (17 Notes)

  • 2022 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Wonderful floral fragrance from 48% Viognier, silky and glossy palate, very shapely, seamless, soft but fresh acidity, subtle zesty bitters, excellent flavours and length.

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  • 2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Warmer style than the 2022 but expressive, slightly tropical fruit, floral lift on the finish, good weight but not weighty, zesty bitters provide balance, good length.

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  • 2019 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Remarkably zesty style, rounded but not as big as I had expected, has perhaps lost some of its youthful expression. May re-emerge.

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  • 2018 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 91 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Similar style to the 2019, starting to show a little bottle age and evolution, especially on the finish. Seems to be in a bit of a dip right now.

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  • 2017 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Lively and fresh for age, built on the structure of the zesty bitters, there is real finesse here.

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  • 2016 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Full-bodied style, I get Chardonnay, creamy and ripe, not unlike a southern Burgundy but with added zesty bitters.

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  • 2015 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Here the Chenin Blanc seems to dominate more on the nose, the Chardonnay provides weight on the palate and some bitters, there’s a nice kick on the finish.

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  • 2014 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Balanced, energetic, fresh but broad, honeyed and floral, playful, elegant and seamless, good persistence. At a lovely stage.

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  • 2013 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A wonderful interplay of fresh and mature flavours, at a lovely stage like the 2014, real energy and elegance, balanced and very stylish.

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  • 2011 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A more gentle style than the 2013, softer and rounded but still energetic and fresh for age. Develops well in the glass.

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  • 2010 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Deeper and richer style than both the 2013 and 2011, deeper colour too, honeyed, flowing and energetic.

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  • 2009 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum 2009. Tropical in style, almost Sauternes like but obviously drier, lovely bitters (do I detect a hint of oak)?

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  • 2008 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Marvellous nose, flowing freshness, closes down a bit with oxygen. Unsure.

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  • 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Retains it youthful colour, complete and mature, quite subtle and playful, apple skin, good persistence.

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  • 2006 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 91 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Considerable colour evolution, evolved honeyed aromas but no traces of oxidation. Not a charmer but still correct.

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  • 2004 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Two single bottles. The first has a relatively youthful colour, shows a beautifully fresh and floral character, lovely and youthful, real elegance and finesse. Almost preternaturally youthful.

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  • 2004 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Two single bottles. The second has a much deeper colour than the first, with evolved and honeyed aromas, but there is a nice freshness on the finish. Correct but not as good.

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Flight 2 - Gassac Rouge (20 Notes)

  • 2021 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. Totally primary, still unformed, liquorice, clearly a cooler year, the fruit is in the grippy red register, quite tannic but no visible oak influence. Needs 5 years at least.

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  • 2019 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. Open and expressive, at a lovely open fruit stage but supported but perfectly judged tannins.

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  • 2018 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. Deeper and more brooding than the 2019, very tannic at the moment, good charge of ripe and creamy fruit, real power and persistence, floral lift on the finish, a very successful vintage. Good career.

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  • 2016 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. Has closed down in the last years, it was one of the stars of my 2020 Gassac tasting, very high acidity (the highest in the history of the estate), very structured, tight and grippy, but it will re-emerge gloriously. The fruit is there, do not worry, just be patient.

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  • 2015 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum 2015. Shows a lovely hint of evolution on the nose, complete and rounded, fresh and firm, perfect weight and balance on the palate. Superb tannins (highest level in the history of the estate). Needs a few years, an excellent wine.

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  • 2013 Mas de Daumas Gassac 91 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. A warm year apparently, but it comes across as crisp and fresh and bright, quite closed right now, tannins are a bit dry, there is a lovely hint of liqueur on the finish which gives hope. Cautious score.

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  • 2012 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. An elegant style, light bodied, tannins are a bit firm for the weight of fruit, it may dry out, do not keep too long, decant and serve with food.

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  • 2010 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Early maturity, rich fruit, liqueur, firm but ripe tannins, rich aromas, lots of power but no lack of elegance, black and youthful fruit, a wine of real majesty, but needs much, much more time. Revisit after 2030. Score based on potential. I am afraid that the mathusalem in my cellar may outlast me...

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  • 2009 Mas de Daumas Gassac 95 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A full organ wine, rich and creamy and rounded, the fruit almost hides the beautifully developed structure, but the tannins confidently show their head above the parapet on the finish. Great wine, great now, great future.

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  • 2007 Mas de Daumas Gassac 91 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Transparent nose, light pitch to the fruit, slightly drying, a slightly weaker vintage for my palate.

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  • 2006 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A real 2006 in character, bright and tannic, grippy, clean and clear and bright, extraction not pushed too far, well made, still a good future. I was surprised.

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  • 2005 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Perfectly developed, en pleine forme, spices and fruit, menthol, big but well judged tannins, beautifully balanced, creamy, long finish. Great wine. No hurry. It is easy to underrate these wines in their youth. I know I did.

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  • 2003 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Huge tannins but the aromas are not stewed or jammy, benefited from the cold air from the massif central, alcohol (13.5% ABV) is not excessive, hint of liquorice on the finish. Not a great Gassac but a very competent one.

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  • 2002 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Lighter style, transparent, floral, flowing, elegant, almost Burgundian, milder tannins but with lovely grip. A point.

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  • 1999 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Classic and structured, much more a bordeaux style, not really hurt by the rain, floral Cabernet, good evolution, Barton comes to mind.

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  • 1997 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Slightly dusty nose, crushed red berries, ripe and juicy, elegant and flowing, hint of red meat, complete, sandy tannins. Lovely. It reminded me of Canon-la-Gaffelière.

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  • 1996 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle Second highest level of acidity ever (until / after 2016). Again a claret like style, cool and gravelly, whiff of tomato, hint of liqueur on the finish. Not really convinced

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  • 1994 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A very fine vintage for the estate in this period, oak is a bit sweet but attractive, deep and rich, spicy and open, finely grained tannins, liquorous fruit on the finish. Generous and structured.

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  • 1993 Mas de Daumas Gassac 90 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Lighter and thinner year, shows pretty well, not a lot of fruit left but it’s beautifully mature in a gentle way, with some life sustaining tannins.

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  • 1991 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. A classic vintage from the Aimé Guibert era, authentic Languedoc character, firm and tannic, spicy, hint of animale, hardly any signs of evolution, a wine for the ages in magnum.

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Flight 3 - Lunch (13 Notes)

  • 2021 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Floral, fresher and crisper than the 2022, similar residual sugar but for some reason it sticks out more, expressive and energetic, elegant weight, layered finish, good length.

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  • 2012 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Top of the bill. Samuel Guibert’s favourite vintage for the white and I can see why. Complete and complex, glossy, rounded, fresh, seamless, everything in the right place, a totally harmonious composition.

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  • 2003 Mas de Daumas Gassac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Very evolved, candied fruit, deep and golden but not oxidised or maderised, no sherry notes, the structure is intact, not necessarily my style of wine but nothing off, retains its zesty freshness on the finish.

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  • 2020 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Magnum. Completely open in its primary fruit stage, ripe and fresh, no visible oak, floral, well managed tannins, creamy, firm but accessible, flowing and dreamy. Excellent in a more more modern style.

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  • 2017 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Deeper and spicier than the 2014 but more closed, 78% Cabernet-Sauvignon gives it a lot of energy, but it needs five years.

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  • 2014 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

    Starting to show itself, clear and transparent, hint of spice, red cherries, mildly grippy tannins, good to very good length.

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  • 2011 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. Typical for the vintage, well developed fruit, even a bit of liqueur, fresh and transparent and floral, but the tannins are - predictably - a bit dry and chalky.

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  • 2008 Mas de Daumas Gassac 90 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Needs a bit of time to open up in the glass. Pure expression, clean and transparent, slightly vegetal, feels a bit underripe, light and bright, but lacks a bit of charm.

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  • 2004 Mas de Daumas Gassac 94 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Just like the Blanc from 2004, this is on splendid form, soft and generous, elegant and Burgundian, gentle tannins, flowing and supple. At perfect peak.

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  • 1998 Mas de Daumas Gassac 93 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. The spitting image of a gentle left bank deuxieme cru from the same vintage. Montrose comes to mind. Nice touch of spice.

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  • 1995 Mas de Daumas Gassac

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Last tasted 25 years ago. More to the lovage side, spicy and meaty, slightly tough and even a bit metallic, dry and not very welcoming. Not a perfect bottle? Low level TCA? Not rated.

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  • 1992 Mas de Daumas Gassac 92 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Single bottle. Light and elegant, Burgundian like the 1993, but with better maturity (even if there is vegetal note), floral and flowing, mild tannins, elegant body with enough weight, good but not great length.

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  • 1988 Mas de Daumas Gassac 96 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Vin de Pays de l'Hérault

    Magnum. For me the greatest vintage of Gassac ever, and this bottle convincingly confirms this impression. Perfectly developed but still with potential, still so fresh, spices and fruit and flowers, subtle terroir expression, mild but firm tannins, powerful but with almost Burgundian elegance, there is real beauty here, everything is in the right place. A wine that makes you go silent. Not quite as magical as the bottle in 2021 but clearly of the highest order.

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