Burgundies with James Handford

James had chosen one wine from each of the years 1995 to 2005. The format worked well, showing off the differences between vintages and growers. And the wines showed well too - the atmosphere in the cellar seemed to be conducive to the fragrance of these wines and they were all beautifully perfumed. The Fourrier Griotte was the standout for me and most others; the other favourite, both of mine and the group, was the Arnoux RSV. No one apart from me was particularly impressed by the DRC Richebourg.

• 2005 Bernard Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes - Coeur de Roy 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

  My first Dugat-Py, I think. Mouthwateringly fruity nose, blackcurranty, oaky, plums, mulberries, some malt, but smoothly textured. Big, but not ungainly.

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• 2004 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 94 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Pale, with a really intense, penetrating, sharp pinot fragrance, sweet tobacco fruit offseting the sharpness - intriguing and delightful

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• 2001 Nicolas Potel Charmes-Chambertin 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

  Sappy, wild, leafy, light bodied and lean, and despite a whiff of the farm, very very pretty. [Apparently sourced from Roumier]

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• 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

  After the Potel Charmes '01, this was much riper and substantial, but still it was light, lean and sharp, but nevertheless beguilingly fragrant

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• 1996 Georges Lignier et Fils Bonnes Mares 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

  Substantial, some oak (or so it tasted - JH said no new oak used), quite grippy, but enough earthy dense fruit to balance it out - a high-toned fragrance gave it lift

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• 1997 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 84 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

  Pale, earthy, stalky, and for all the tobacco sweetness on the mid-palate, this is raw - I don't like it

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• 2003 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Really dark, ripe, grippy, sharp, sweet scents from the oak, but also a bit of farmy pong - recognisably burgundy which isn't always the case in 2003, grand burgundy too.

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• 2000 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brulées 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Pale, lifted cherry fragrance, a nice lot of sappy fruit and puppy fat on the palate, and a bit of grip too - very pretty indeed

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• 1995 Domaine René Engel Grands-Echezeaux 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Deep and healthy looking, but one could smell the tannin on the nose. A decent amount of sweet pinot fruit. But it's simple. And very grippy. it's just about approachable today, but it needs to shed those tannins for it to be properly enjoyable.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Romanée St. Vivant 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

  Plummy and oaky - masses going on here, extracted, this comes over as very grand

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• 1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

  Strikingly minty, vanilla oak too, and the menthol and mint dominate the palate, but there's pinot poking through, and it's fresh - I suspect this is turning into something special

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