Martin Scott Portfolio Tasting 2008

East Side of Central Park, NYC
Tasted Monday, September 8, 2008 by RajivAyyangar with 1,112 views

Introduction

Earlier in the day I was tasting the lineup at Vias Imports with Joe and Julius. Joe got a call from the Premier guys (store in Buffalo) about the tasting they were at - Martin Scott. Having tasted most of the stuff we were interested in at Vias, we hopped in a cab and headed over here. For me it was a huge shock. Vias was large and all - about 24 tables. To put things in perspective, Martin Scott had 100 large tables, and two floors (we only checked out the top floor). It was like a college gymnasium filled with wine. My main complaint was that there was no bread - just cheeses and various vegetables and fruits. Thankfully Joe and I had brought bread sticks from Vias (which had a superb spread of charcuterie, bread, fresh parmigiano, and artisanal olive oils , and I'd brought my own bottled water. The glasses they provided were not quite ideal tulip shapes, but they weren't horrible either. There was an interesting mix of people there, as at Vias - some looked more serious, taking copious notes and spitting, while other people were in evening gowns, chatting.

Flight 1 - Spain: The Killer Row (13 Notes)

Immediately beyond the entrance was a row of Spanish wines. Joe helped me to tease apart the fruit and oak flavors, and for the first time I recognized and appreciated superb oak treatment. These were powerful, delicious, layered wines - many of which are under $20 retail!

  • 2006 Bodegas Exopto Rioja EXOPTO Big Bang 82 Points

    Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

    Med+ acid, med body, med tannins. Dark fruit. Some oak treatment. Nice intensity. Good for a sub-$20 rioja.

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  • 2006 Bodegas Vizcarra Ramos Ribera del Duero 84 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Dark color. 'b/c this is Ribeira del Duero, you're going to get a little more extraction, lower yields, higher elevation, higher acid, higher alcohol, riper fruit, more oak'
    Palate: oak treatment - lingers on the finish. [before this point in my tasting career I always had trouble identifying oak. this row of killer Spanish wines will both teach me to recognize it in red wines, and really make me fall in love with oak treatment, if well done, in tempranillo].

    90 JM, 88 ST

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  • 2004 Bodega Matarredonda Toro Juan Rojo 85 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

    Dark in the glass. N: dark fruit and oak. 'Classic toro, meat, chocolate, fruit, lots of oak, big alcohol, big tannins, med acid.' In the mouth: Big, bold, oaky, roasted nuts, coffee.

    st90
    jm91

    80 yr old vines, Tempranillo

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  • 2004 Bodega Matarredonda Toro Libranza 86 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Toro

    Dark. Nose: 'beautiful toro nose, roasted nuts, coffee' toasty oak on the nose, coffee notes, like a dark stout, roasted nuts, very nice! Delicious in the mouth.

    100-140 yr old prephylloxera vines!!!

    94jm
    91st

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  • 2004 Bodegas Hornillos Ballesteros Ribera del Duero Perfil de Mibal 92 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Absolutely delicious on the nose: Coffee, roasted nuts, a very interesting hint of blue fruits 'tempranillo on steroids, man!'
    In the mouth: chocolate, coffee, roasted nuts, toast, but with beautiful fruit! Super ripe, chewy tannins, this is absolutely awesome. Super plush, rich, mouthfeel. Finish lasts aeons.
    Retails for ~$70.

    st90
    jm91

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  • 2006 Señorio de Barahonda Monastrell 85 Points

    Spain, Murcia, Yecla

    N: Strawberry jam! smokiness, blueberry and darker fruits. P: Not super long. Some oak, a little green stickiness on the tannins. Retails under $10!!!!! Super QPR.

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  • 2005 Señorio de Barahonda Yecla El Principio Bellum 87 Points

    Spain, Murcia, Yecla

    Beautiful stewed nose, hints of animal cage bedding, dusty. I love the stewed plums on the nose. Nice oak.

    89 jm

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  • 2005 Señorio de Barahonda Yecla Providencia Bellum 85 Points

    Spain, Murcia, Yecla

    14 months in barriques, decanted before serving at the tasting.
    Nose is a bit light, but very pretty. Palate: simple but good.

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  • 2005 Bodegas Diaz Bayo Ribera del Duero Nuestro 90 Points

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    Bod. Diaz Bayo, Crianza 'Nuestro', RdD 2005.
    Very dark. Blue fruit, coffee, oak, baked spices, roasted nuts, dark fruit. Great in the mouth, long finish, tannic. Not super ripe tannins, but the flavor sticks around a long time. Great oak integration.
    'All these wines: ripe, balance and length, fruit and oak.'

    I agree with JM?!:

    90 pts: Deep crimson in color, it has a fragrant nose of cedar, pencil lead, spice box, and blackberry. This is followed by a wine with a forward personality, ripe, spicy fruit, sweet tannins.

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  • 2006 Bodegas Licinia Vinos de Madrid Licinia 88 Points

    Spain, Madrid, Vinos de Madrid

    Syrah-Cab-Tempranillo blend.
    Dark. A little raspberry, blue fruit. Good oak integration. Great palate.

    jm91, st92

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  • 2005 Melis Priorat Elix 88 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    Dried fruit on the nose, coffee, strawberry.
    'all these spanish wines show great length, balance, and integrity... we'll see some new world wines, and a lot of times they smell great but just fall off in the mouth.
    This is really full in the mouth.

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  • 2005 Melis Priorat 93 Points

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    This wine was so delicious it made my mouth water from more than just acidity. It also was so complex and layered in the mouth it sparked a torrent of descriptors. I quote verbatim from myself:
    "Oh that's really, really amazing... great acidity, great tannins, absolutely delicious structure...round, full, savory... wood... the wood is integrated, you get nutty, coffee, you know, hints of buttery toast, red fruit, dark fruit, dates..." Just an awesome wine. The experience of drinking it was so intense, it was faintly painful, in a good way.

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  • NV Casteller Cava Brut 80 Points

    Spain, Cava

    Ok. Nice.

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Flight 2 - Mostly Italy (21 Notes)

After a quick cava to rinse our palates, we moved to the rows on the left side of the building that were dominated by Italian wines, including a large selection of indigenous varietals. The one exception was a rather uninspiring Cotes du Rhone Villages from Tardieu-Laurent. I found these wines difficult - probably because we had just come from a mostly-Italy tasting, and my palate was somewhat battered from the high acid high tannin nebbiolos. Still, there were some very interesting wines.

Flight 3 - The Center Row (5 Notes)

Moving back toward the Spanish row, we went up the center aisle, tasting a couple lackluster Bdx before meeting Aldo Vajra (whom I talked with the very next day at the Corkscrew tasting) and tasting some of his wines, and an Elio Grasso (which I had in my cellar at the time).

  • 2005 Château Le Cros 80 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion

    The label claims St-Emilion Grand Cru status... and yet there's virtually no info on this wine online, it doesn't show up in any classifications, and CT didn't have an entry. Most puzzling.

    If it were under $20 it would be good, if 30+, not so good. Decent but nothing too inspiring. I mentioned that it's a Grand cru, so probably expensive but according to Joe, "It's St. Emilion though, Grand cru status doesn't immediately signify higher prices."

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  • 2005 Château Fleur de Jean Gué 80 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Lalande de Pomerol

    Some brett, some pyrazines, med body, med acid, med alcohol. All right, but not as much power/extraction/length as the spanish wines. Medium, medium, medium. All right.

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  • 2004 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe Flawed

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Oxidized.

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  • 2006 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo 89 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    strawberries, brighter fruit, nice aromatics. It's clean, fresh, good fruit, tasty palate with good acid. Hard not to like.

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  • 2007 Elio Grasso Langhe Nebbiolo Gavarini

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

    A little tight. Can't hear the rest of my notes. I think I liked it, though.

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Flight 4 - Excursion with the Dude in the Suit (2 Notes)

Joe introduced me to a friend of his, I'll call him Suit Dude, who was recently promoted to some high-up position in Martin Scott. Learning that this was my first really big tasting, he promptly took me on a whirlwind tour of his favorite wines. We dashed all over the room, and I only recall two of the wines in any detail (they were all delicious) before rejoining JoeG over at the white burg table (on the far right of the room).

  • 2004 Quinta do Noval Douro 85 Points

    Portugal, Douro

    Tried with Joe's friend in a suit (who's apparently a big shot at MS now). Very nice fruit, some complexity, good structure and length. 85+

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  • 2006 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard 86 Points

    New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu

    Nice, clean, not especially high acid, but then again, my palate had been pummeled for nearly 4 hours at this point. Not too rich, but elegant and stony. Pleasant. Chablis-like? (from what I've read, at least, since I don't have much experience with chablis). Tasted with dude in suit.

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Flight 5 - Tasting Burgs, Cali, and Alsace with Joe and Suit Dude (9 Notes)

After the quick tour, we joined JoeG at a rather eclectic row on the far right side. With the variety of wines here, I felt like someone had rubbed fog off of my glasses - I was all of a sudden able to distinguish the wines (or some of them) with reasonable clarity. In particular, the Gewurztraminer aromatics hit me like a spray of cold water in the face - in a good way.

Flight 6 - More Cali, sans Dude (4 Notes)

At this point, Joe's friend took leave, and we continued a bit along the row. Neither of us are really fans of Cali wines, and furthermore I think we were both feeling serious palate fatigue, but we pressed on for a bit.

Flight 7 - I Met Chris Ringland!!!!!!! (2 Notes)

As a final stop we hit the Aussie table. Who should be behind the counter but Chris Ringland, surrounded by an army of wines under his "R" label. I didn't know what to say, so I just introduced myself and babbled on about the wine club. Chris was very nice, and it was surreal meeting a winemaker whose name I've seen hundreds of times on bottles. In terms of meeting Mr. Ringland, and the huge wines he makes, we definitely went out with a bang!

  • 2006 Shirvington Shiraz 84 Points

    Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

    JoeG "Classic McLaren vale shiraz, very Northern RHonish, white pepper, white peach, minerality, blueberries, one of my favorites"

    Not an overpowering nose - "McLaren is the feminine to Barossa's masculine." Very Acidic - acidified. Has some tannins, and fruit. It's all there.

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  • 2006 R Wines Shiraz Strong Arms 60 Points

    Australia, South Australia

    Really strong acidity. Sweet. Painful actually - it hurts my tongue. Pretty much just oak. Some green flavors - why in Aussie Shiraz? When it's really really really hot, it can interfere with flavor ripening. Stunts photosynthesis? --> pyrazines.

    I'm not sure how to score this. On one hand, I don't like it - it's characterless, over-oaked (24 or 34 months in Fr and Amer according to Ringland), has super-fake acidity (it actually felt like the acid was in a different country than the rest of the wine, very separate), and really has no complexity. On the other hand, it's undeniably delicious and has balancing acidity to deal with the porty sweetness. Objectively I'd have to say in the high 80's or even 90's if you like that style. For me personally I'd like to go 60 on this, just cause it rubs me the wrong way.

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Closing

All in all a tremendous tasting, and a tremendous day! While my impressions were rather vague, especially towards the end as my palate became stiff from acid and tannins, this was an invaluable lesson in tasting large numbers of wines. In particular, I fell in love with Spain, learned to pick out oak influence, and learned to identify fake acid.

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