Paris Club - Chicago IL
Tasted May 27, 2014 by Burgundy Al with 430 views
Our Chicago Burgundy group, the Lieu-dit Cru, got together for dinner focusing on wine from Latricières-Chambertin, the final in our dinner series examining Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru. Our clockwise tasting tour started in June 2011 with Chambertin, and was completed tonight. Ok, we skipped Chapelle-Chambertin for lack of bottles with appropriate age, so will get back to that this fall or winter.
Latricières-Chambertin showed exactly what we expected: fruit focused wines that are slightly less tannic or structured vs most of the other Grand Cru vineyards from Gevrey. I would have liked to have had a few more wines from Trapet or Rossignol-Trapet to be more representative, but no complaints were heard with the amazing flight from Domaine Leroy.
Flight 1 - Blind Whites (2 notes)
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Open 45 minutes before tasted. Served double blind to the group alongside the 2007. I didn't know which glass had which wine. Lots of ripe apple with lots of power and intensity. Great energy and concentration. I correctly identified this as the '08.
2007 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Open approx 45 minutes before tasted. Served double blind to the group alongside the 2008. I didn't know which wine was in each glass. I understand why the group thought this might have been from Chablis, which lots of lemon, lemon peel and green apple, lots of salinity, plus its vibrant, lean energy start-to-finish. I correctly identified this as the 2007.
Flight 2 - 1978-1993 Flight (4 notes)
1978 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin
Open 45 minutes before serving. Tasted single blind in Latricieres flight 1978-93. Most of us easily identified this as the old bottle. Mushroom with lingering red fruit, good concentration, very good spice. Most interesting after 5-10 minutes in glass, after which is shortened, but stayed at that level for several hours. Bottle had great fill, very good color.
1993 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin
Open ~90 minutes before serving. Tasted single blind in flight of Latricieres 1978-1993. Meaty and dense black fruit with very good spice, very good power. Still fresh and youthful. Also well textured and balanced. I correctly identified this as from 1993, but wasn't which which was Faiveley vs Ponsot.
1993 Domaine Ponsot Latricières-Chambertin
Open ~90 minutes before serving. Served single blind in Latricieres 1978-1993 flight. Large and fat fruit that came across as quite ripe. Forward and dense, but less exciting than I might have hoped. Tasted blind, I originally thought this was the 1990.
Flight 3 - Domaine Leroy Flight (4 notes)
Perfect with slightly spicy duck.
2000 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin
Open 2+ hours before serving single blind in Leroy 1995-2001 Latricieres flight. Red and black cherry aromas and flavors are fresh and forward with some dark berry hints. Great spice with floral notes. Modest structure. At a great place now. I correctly identified each vintage in this flight.
1997 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin
Open 1+ hour before serving single blind in Leroy 1995-2001 Latricieres flight. Very ripe black and red berry on both nose and palate. Still fresh and beautiful. Great fruit concentration and intensity, but less structural support vs some of the other vintages in the flight, giving it a slightly zaftig character. I correctly identified the vintage of each bottle in this great flight.
1995 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin
Open 1+ hour before serving single blind in Leroy 1995-2001 Latricieres flight. All black fruit here, showing signs of maturity around the edges. Firm and well structured with very good intensity, power and length. Very ageworthy. I correctly identified the vintage of each bottle in this great flight.
2001 Domaine Leroy Latricières-Chambertin
Open 2+ hours before serving single blind in Leroy 1995-2001 Latricieres flight. Intense berry and cherry aromas, mostly black fruit with some red hints. Again mostly black fruit flavors with lots of power and ever-so-slightly backward and firm today. Not sure if I preferred this or the 2000 today, but this was better in terms of long-term potential. slightly better vs another bottle tried last year.
Flight 4 - Younger Faiveley Flight (4 notes)
1996 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin
Tasted single blind in Faiveley Latricieres flight 1996-2003. Open ~3 hours before serving. Lots of black fruit with firm, sandpapery textures. Hard to tell when the structure will soften enough to provide more pleasure. We didn't decant, but next time I will either wait another decade or decant for a couple of hours.
2001 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin
Open ~3 hours before serving single blind in Faiveley 1996-2003 Latricieres flight. Enjoyable black berries with spice hints and a slightly rugged, rustic character very common to many Faiveley wines from this era. Probably getting close to its peak drinking window.
2002 Faiveley Latricières-Chambertin
Open ~3 hours before serving single blind in Faiveley 1996-2003 flight. Very good black and red fruit start-to-finish. Far more interesting than the 1996 or 2001 vintages. Moderate spice. Firm tannins, but clearly the best balance and harmony.
Flight 5 - Some More Latricieres (3 notes)
2007 Camille Giroud Latricières-Chambertin
Open 1 hour before serving, then served single blind in our final Latricieres flight. Very pretty and charming fruit aromas, more red vs black. Subtle spice throughout. Very open today, very good harmony. Lots of pleasure now with moderate intensity.
2002 Louis Jadot Latricières-Chambertin
Open ~4 hours before serving single blind in our final Latricieres flight. Dense fruit on nose and palate with classic Gevrey meatiness and game. Very long and powerful with good structure. Exciting potential to keep improving with more bottle age. I don't think I've tried this since shortly after release and am glad to have a case+ in the cellar.
1999 Louis Jadot Latricières-Chambertin
From magnum. Open ~4 hours before serving single blind in our final Latricieres flight. Surprisingly more backward, less forthcoming vs the 2002 vintage. Good fruit, good spice, just not quite in perfect harmony tonight. Largely unchanged the 2nd night.
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