Expectations surpassed by the condition and quality of this bottle. Balanced, poised, with length and plenty of acidity. No rush at all for this bottle but drank with joy and appreciation. A reminder of the now rather too rare ageing potential of white burgundy, even in middling vintages.
Perfectly mature bottle of white Burgundy. On the nose there's some white mushroom, preserved lemon, butterscotch, menthol, toast and mineral. It is full in the mouth with a creamy feel. There's good depth of flavour and Corton's strong mineral line is still felt.
Back vintages from three Burgundy producers with Tryffelsvinet (Grappe, Stockholm): Nose with yellow apples, winter apples with some oxidation notes, some oak and spice. Medium bodied+, yellow apples, winter apples, spice, and mineral in the aftertaste. Has kept well, but is not quite at the same level as the rest. 91 p It is clear that this producer has switched to a more firm and elegant style in the 2000s, and that the 1994 belongs to an older era.
Rich lemon and buttery butterscotch. Carried quite a bit of weight and oak which reminded me of some more modern styles creamy fleshy batards or even Aussie Chards. But all in all an extravagant tasting wine.
Baby Shower (Park Palace, Grand Park Hotel): Disappointing. This was a pretty good wine in its own right, but way below the standards I have come to expect from a mature Bonneau du Martray CC. The nose came across very young, very primary, with vanilla-laced oak notes, sweet cream and ripe lemon and sweet red apple aromas tinge with a bit of spice. There was just the smallest touch of honey that showed a touch of age, otherwise, this smelt like something easily 10 years younger. People were guessing 2005 and 2006 on that nose. The palate was disappointing unfortunately. It did carry some BdM hallmarks - it was creamy and rich, with ripe apple flavours seasoned with a nice dose of spice, riding into a long, honeyed finish undergirded with chalky mineral. Good strength I thought, but this was drinking more like a 1er Cru than a Grand Cru, rather missing in depth, complexity and, most of all, the tension and cut that I would normally associate with this wine. In fact, while not flabby, this was almost a little flat given the lack of acidity. Good, but not great. Perhaps time to drink up as well.
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