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JancisRobinson.com

Terry Theise Estate Selections

  • By Terry Theise
    2011 Austrian Catalog, 5/1/2011, (See more on Terry Theise Estate Selections...)

    (Willi Bründlmayer Riesling Zöbinger Heiligenstein "Lyra") ($74.00) One or both of these may not be available until January 2012, depending on their evolution in cask. As a rule I have found some of the Alte Reben bottlings somewhat heavy and dour lately, preferring the complexity of fruit and regal grace of the Lyra. This vintage was different, at least potentially. Lyra had a fervent aroma blending strong green elements and smoky botrytis in a solid firm line of silvery mossy structure, with fine herbal length. But Alte Reben, man that was like chewing geology. A little wisp of botrytis supports the vinosity. If this goes where I think, it’ll become a dense, rocky Riesling with an overtone of sweet fruit.

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