(Most of) The Burgundy Verticals Tasting at La Paulee 2013
Colicchio & Sons, New York
Tasted Friday, March 8, 2013 by drwine2001 with 1,253 views
Introduction
What a wonderfully arranged event and much less overwhelming than the Grand Tasting the following day. Sorry folks, I missed some great wines along the way, but this was all my palate and back could tolerate over 2 hours.
Flight 1 - Laroche Reserve de l'Obedience (3 Notes)
It's clear that this cuvee has the potential to be at least excellent if you can tolerate a fair thwack of oak in your Chablis. It lacks the focus and drive of the very best Grand Crus, though.
Flight 2 - Christian Moreau Les Clos Clos des Hospices (3 Notes)
Surprisingly good 2009, others not top tier
Flight 4 - Vincent Dauvissat La Forest (3 Notes)
It was pretty bold to show these wines, which were by far the oldest set in the tasting, red or white. One big hit (1995), one miss (1990), and one teetering (1999) from a vintage that has never been my favorite for Chablis.
Flight 5 - Colin-Morey Chassagne Les Caillerets (3 Notes)
These wines are just a tour de force in terms of texture and balance.
Flight 6 - Pierre Morey Meursault Les Tessons (3 Notes)
Underwhelming
Flight 7 - Lafon Meursault Perrieres (3 Notes)
Very disappointing given the potential of Perrieres and the Lafon reputation, and the 2003 was a pretty odd choice to show.
Flight 8 - Leflaive Puligny Les Pucelles (3 Notes)
I understand why they sequenced them this way, but unfortunately, the progression was from excellent to woody and overblown.
Flight 9 - Bouchard Chevalier-Montrachet (4 Notes)
One of the biggest surprises of the weekend was how stunningly the younger vintages of this wine showed-a big contrast to the 2004.
Flight 10 - Lafarge Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs (3 Notes)
Except for the 2006, the others were too young, too tight, too funky. Not a good display at all.
Flight 11 - Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons (3 Notes)
More gentle and less strict than I had expected, but the 2009 did not show nearly as well as it did a year ago.
Flight 12 - Jadot Corton Pougets (3 Notes)
Only the 2007 had that really lean Corton style; the other 2 vintages were fairly forthcoming.
Flight 14 - Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots (3 Notes)
Beautiful set of wines, completely true to the character of the respective vintages.
Flight 15 - Domaine d'Eugenie Clos Vougeot (3 Notes)
Oooh, great 2009 here.
Flight 16 - Remoissenet Clos Vougeot (3 Notes)
Not close to the level of the Eugenie Clos Vougeot.
Flight 17 - Fourrier Vougeot Les Petit Vougeot (3 Notes)
You get some of the essential Fourrier style here (especially in the 2009), but these wines don't hold a candle to his Gevreys. Another curious choice to show at this prestigious tasting.
Flight 18 - Liger-Belair Vosne Romanee Aux Brulees (3 Notes)
I've never understood or appreciated this producer, and this set of wines didn't help at all.
Flight 19 - Hudelot-Noellat Romanee St. Vivant (3 Notes)
Not bad but none of these were as good as the 2010 RSV that was shown the next day.
Flight 20 - Dujac Vosne Romanee Aux Malconsorts (3 Notes)
I always have high expectations for Dujac, and these fell somewhat short, although the '07 was attractive.
Flight 22 - Jean-Louis Trapet Latricieres-Chambertin (3 Notes)
Another producer where I've never experienced the magic, and so it went with these Latricieres.
Flight 24 - Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin (3 Notes)
Nothing special
Flight 25 - Roumier Bonnes Mares (3 Notes)
What a way to finish! These were the best set of wines in the tasting, and the 2007 was not only the most unforgettable wine of the day, but it was head and shoulders above anything else I've tasted from this lighter vintage. Of course, the '05 will also be very great, but it's going to take another 30 years to get there. My goodness, is anyone in the region making better wine than Roumier right now? Bravo!!
Closing
Hard to draw broad conclusions from this limited swath of wines, but a few thoughts on the vintages going back to 2005 based upon the wines tasted today:
2009-Maybe not as terminally ripe as they seemed last year, but it will take some time to sort these wines out.
2008-Wildly variable, ranging from undrinkable to classic, full of aromatic finesse, and superior to the 2 bracketing vintages.
2007-Often lovely overperformers (okay, maybe I'm still biased by the mind blowing Roumier) and a good choice for a lighter vintage that is drinking well now.
2006-Easy to criticize for their frequent loose structure and feel, but at the same time, lots to them and often very generous, tasty, and open.
2005-The tasting was in New York, so I'll just use the colloquial "Fuhgedaboudit" for a good, long while with most of these wines.
2009 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Excellent volume and depth. Prominent orange fruit. Perhaps less distinctive Chablis character than the other 2 vintages, but impressive acidity and structure for a 2009 Chablis.
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2008 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Less citrus than the '09 but deeper and more powerful with more wood showing than in either of the bracketing vintages. I preferred the '09 in this case.
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2007 Domaine Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots Réserve de l'Obédience
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Not nearly as concentrated as the 2 younger vintages, but elegant, floral and saline with racy acidity. This was the one that screamed "Chablis"! Absolutely lovely although not a big Grand Cru.
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