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Phil M's VCC lunch

The Ledbury, London

Tasted April 8, 2011 by SimonG with 732 views

Introduction

Thanks to Phil for pulling this together and to all for their company and bottles. Nothing stood out for me, but this reafirmed my like for VCC and its left-bank character. The 89 and 90 seemed a little subdued cd previous showings but what was really apparent was how well the 'off' vintages showed. A good
buy in the cheaper, less flashy years perhaps. Lovely showings from the top and tail fizz and Sauternes too. Food as expected, lovely. A slightly different dressing for the deer carpaccio from last time I had this, snails and the most melting slow cooked lamb I've had at the Ledbury yet. Yum!

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2002 R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru Présidence Vieilles Vignes France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Mid straw. Lovely nose, quite ripe, a sense of richness and spice, ginger possibly. Positive attack, quite full. Decent length. Lovely. A touch of leanness on the finish - a year or two longer perhaps. ***(1/2)

Flight 2 (4 notes)

Red
1999 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Quite a leafy, herbaceous nose. Fatter in the glass. Seems all there on the palate although less fragrant / more muted cf the others. Quite plush though. **(*1/2)
Red
1996 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Smoother and more rounded nose. A touch of freshness. En famille with the others. A little leaner on the palate. Decent attack but a little light on the finish. Lacks persistence. ***
Red
1995 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
flawed
Corked and not served.
Red
1993 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
More mature on the nose, an older version of the 99. Earthy, herbaceous. Reasonably positive attack. Light but quite flavoursome. A nice spiciness here. Touch of tobacco. Altogether this is a pretty decent effort. ***

Flight 3 (4 notes)

Red
1997 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Lovely nose. Similar on palate. Very smooth, very drinkable though lacks depth and complexity. Not quite as persistant as it could be but a very pleasant drink now. ***
Red
1994 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
More mute on the nose. Mineral, quite fresh, a touch of tobacco and herbaciousness. Very decent attack, thinner on the mid-palate and finish. Quite long. Savoury. Very good. ***
Red
1989 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Quite muted nose. Slightly lactic. Very smooth and harmonious. Builds in glass. Persistant and long though not as good as previous bottles. Still very nice. ****
Red
1988 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
I'm the only one (apart from Luke) who doesn't think this is corked. Nicely 88, quite herbaceous, leafy, even a touch of woodiness but more 88 than TCA. No sign of deterioration with air. Fresh, slightly clipped
on the finish but reasonable length. ***1/2

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
1990 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Restrained. Nothing opulent or flashy here. Some spice and richness on the nose but savoury and spicy, then linear and focused. Quite understated, leafy, persistent. ****
Red
1986 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Slightly herbaceous, lean nose. Surprisingly rounded and smooth on palate though. Refreshing and really quite lovely. ***1/2
Red
1982 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
flawed
Corked and not served
Red
1978 Vieux Château Certan France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Lovely nose. Light, fragrant, tobacco and spice. Sweet fruit on the attack, a little leaner on the finish. Becoming woody with time. (*)**1/2

Flight 5 (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Lovely bright, light gold. Vibrant. Just a touch of botrytis, nicely sweet, good acidity. Long and lovely. ****
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