Nose is poised and direct: leafy aromatics, slightly chalky and just a faint suggestion of lime. Grapefruit pith on the palate. But just a touch dilute and loose around the edges. 15.5/20.

Stony and more mineral on the nose than the Kupp 18. More concentrated and better definition on the palate, too. In fact a much more serious proposition overall with a broad spectrum of citrus flavours. Slightly chewy just now. 16.5/20. 2015+

Herbal/leafy nose with a little menthol lift. Dense and chewy with fringe of citrus acidity. Slightly austere. 16.5/20. 2015+

Racy with lovely refreshing acidity. This should drink earlier than some of the other GGs here but doesn't lack stuffing. Good. 16.5/20.

Mint leaf aromas. Tense and tangy with a real crescendo of a finish. Exciting wine. 16.5/20. 2014+

Nose is a touch spicy/sweaty. Hugely concentrated and very tightly wound but great potential. Power and precision. Long, stony finish. 17+/20. 2015+

Nose is a little mute but masses of stony, citrus flavour on the palate. Beautifully sculpted, too. 17+/20. 2014+

Spicy/sweaty nose; verging on ammonia. Quite a bit of extract on the palate. Spicy too. Good tension but pretty chewy just now. 16.5+/20. 2015+

Very spicy/sweaty again but there are some leafy aromatic notes in the background. Pretty hard to see beyond the fermentation notes on the palate just now. Spicy finish. 16?/20. 2015+

Rocks, citrus and a touch of sweat on the nose. Tautly mineral palate with cheek-puckering acidity. Mid-palate is a little chewy just now but the finish is long, tangy and appetising. 16.5/20. 2015+

Some aromatic herbs - lavender - on the nose. Palate is juicy and mouthwatering. Beautifully balanced already. Really good. 17/20. 2014+

Slightly spicy/sweaty nose again. Tense, taut and lots to chew on but masses of potential. Electrifying. 17+/20. 2014+

Very pure mineral nose: a mix of mountain stream and alpine air. Tangy grapefruit palate. Tense and chewy but citrus-fresh finish. Good. 16.5/20. 2015+

Mineral again but more marine than the Dellchen: salty sea air. Intensely stony palate but not austere; just a squeeze of citrus. Such power and focus; like a diamond-tipped drill. Great. 17+/20. 2014+

Grassy, slightly creamy nose. Palate also creamy and weightier than most of the other GGs here. Lovely wine but atypical in this line-up; could almost pass for a Puligny. 17/20. 2014+

Leafy, herbal aromatics. Palate is a little incohesive: some apple and grapefruit but they're pulling in different directions. Stony finish. 16/20.

Beautifully pure nose of graphite and alpine air. Nervy start then an explosive finish. This wine has boundless enthusiasm: it's bursting to show you what it's made of but I'd wait at least a year. 17+/20. 2014+

Tense, smoky nose. Very pure and focused with knife-edge tension. Just brilliant; perhaps the standout wine here. 17.5/20. 2014+

Leafy aromatics; almost floral. Much more stony than the Mandelgarten and verging on austere. For mineral fiends only. 16.5/20. 2014+

Nose is a little reticent; might be a little too cold. Concentrated but - and just how do they achieve this again and again? - weightless. Beautiful poise and then really reverberates on the finish. Such an assured confidence about this wine; like a top class sprinter easing themselves through the heats. 17+/20. 2015+

Blackcurrant leaf aromas. Broad, dense palate with that crushed rock sensation that crops again and again in Van Volxem wines. Just the right side of austere but completely uncompromising: this is riesling with the dials turned up to 11 and a defiant two fingers to all the grape's detractors. 17/20. 2015+

Similar aromatically to the Goldberg but with the addition of fresh alpine air. Fuller and, fractionally, friendlier palate but still taut and mineral. Great. 17+/20. 2015+

Good depth to the nose: cherry and creamy oak with some stemmy/stalky notes in the background. Creamy palate with ripe, dark cherry fruit. More New Zealand than burgundy but admirably savoury finish with some limestone notes. Good. And reasonable value (ca. £20) as well. 16.5/20.

A slightly subtler, more aromatic nose than the Schulen but still very enticing. Good structure and very finely-grained tannin. Appetisingly tart finish. Good. 17/20. 2014+

Slightly lighter fruit - strawberry - than Schulen/Rhini and also some limestone aromas. Soft, silky palate with beautiful acidity. Sappy, stemmy finish maybe suggests some whole bunch influence. Transparent; proper wine. 17.5/20. 2014+

More perfumed than the Spätburgunders but also more obvious oak aromas. Oak seems a little heavy-handed on the palate too. And there are some off-putting green notes. OK. 16.5-/20.