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BORDEAUX 2005 / Graves reds and whites tasted in 2006
Bordeaux
Tasted April 8, 2006 by PanosKakaviatos with 337 views
Introduction
THE TASTING NOTES / PART II
NOT JUST RED WINE
Readers take note: these are notes that date from 2006...
In this second part, we look at two famous appellations which remain somewhat obscured by the Right Bank (St. Emilion and Pomerol, primarily) and the Left Bank (Medoc and its main appellations of Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux and
St. Estephe). Graves and Sauternes are Left Bank wines (to the left of the Gironde River and the southern Dordogne/Garonne branches of that river), but they are both also south of the city of Bordeaux, unlike the Medoc, which means that the reds mature more quickly due to a slightly warmer climate. Though about 80% of Bordeaux wine is red, each of these two AOCs are very well known for white whites (dry in Graves, sweet in Sauternes). Indeed, two of the greatest Bordeaux wines ever come from these regions: Château Haut Brion (in Pessac) – the only non Medoc wine to be included in the 1855 Classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes – and Château d’Yquem, in Sauternes. Without much further ado, let us start with the great red and white dry wines of Graves, and, more specifically, Pessac-Léognan, an appellation only recently created (1987), which consists of the northernmost part of the Graves region, where soils are more gravely and warmer than in the south: ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, but in spots with more clay, also good for quite a bit of Merlot. That’s me, above, at Château Haut Brion.
Flight 1 - Château Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion (5 notes)
Some scenes from the tasting at Château Haut Brion, the only château not in the Medoc to be included in the famous 1855 classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes (rated top level with only three other wines). This classification was ordered by Napoleon III in response to primarily English buyers of Bordeaux who requested a list of the best wines. The classification reflected the price of wines as established by brokers over a 100-year period. Though much has changed in the 150 years since, many of the so-called classified growths possess terroirs worthy of their initial ranking. Haut Brion is no exception.
Red
2005 Château La Mission Haut-Brion
92 points
More forward than Haut Brion, more evident flavors of cinnamon and fruit basket aromas, springing out of the glass, with almost over the top headiness. I felt that the Haut Brion showed a tad more breeding, in the quality of the tannins, but this wine has muscle and needs time in barrel to settle. 91-93+
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Red
2005 Château Haut-Brion
93 points
I was very impressed with this wine, but it took 30 minutes for the flavors to emerge. A brooding Haut Brion, with less immediate power than the 2004, but more substance. At first I could hardly detect much aroma, but time in glass revealed spice and cherry with some fresh mint. Mouth coating feeling on the palate and – most important – a long finish. I was somewhat put off by a certain alcoholic presence, more than in any other 1st growth, but just splitting hairs. 56% Merlot, 39% Cab and 5% Cab Franc. 92-94
Red
2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion
89 points
et another wine in the Delmas stable, and it was a tad rustic, with good expression of fruit flavors and spice, but slightly rough tannins. Nice minty freshness coming from the 41% Cab Franc and a good finish. 88-90+
White
2005 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc
93 points
A beautiful white, one of the best of Bordeaux, and no exception in 2005, with sappiness and crisp acidity. Complex flavors include white peach, pear, discrete butter and fresh hay field aromas. Smooth on the palate with a long finish. Very fine. 78% Semillon and 22% Sauvignon. 92-94+
White
2005 Château Haut-Brion Blanc
92 points
Another impressive effort from the Delmas family, this is a rare white wine that can impress. Seems thicker on the palate than the Laville, but also has floral elements and freshness. 52% Sauvignon and 48% Semillon. 91-94
Flight 2 - Graves and Pessac Leognan - WHITE (19 notes)
White
2005 Château Rahoul Blanc
91 points
Another very clear sample, with a pleasing vanilla gingerbread nose. Palate is key lime pie! Nice presence on the palate, but not as nuanced as #1... Still, more immediately appealing, and ... slightly highly in comparison! 90-92+
White
2005 Château Bouscaut Blanc
90 points
Nice mineral like nose with lime notes, clove and spice. Palate is a bit burly with some sharp, almost salty flavors. Nice finish, with intensity, too. 89-91?
White
2005 Château Carbonnieux Blanc
91 points
Peanut brittle nose with hints of Tequila and lime. Palate is fruit juice and alcohol heat is nicely kept in check. Very nice balance and thirst quenching pleasure, perfect for a summer day or with grilled fish. 91-92+
White
2005 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc
92 points
Closed first nose, second nose is more citrus with grapefruit on the palate and some sweet vanilla too. Nice and fresh palate with some pineapple and a linear focus of flavor. Serious wine! 90-93
White
2005 Château de France Blanc
92 points
What lovely aromas of verveine tea, orange blossom and pineapple! Very delicate wine, as palate is poised and balanced though not as intense as, say, #6. Lovely wine however, and one that normally inexpensive. Look out for it! 91-93+
White
2005 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc
88 points
First nose shows a hint of oak. Some lemon, more grapefruit. Palate is boisterous and fun, if a bit rustic. 87-89
White
2005 Château La Louvière Blanc
89 points
A "soft" orange nose, juicy on the palate, zesty, but slightly monolithic - if not at all rustic like the above. A pleasurable drink. 88-90+
White
2005 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc
89 points
Mineral and pear aromas and flavors, and the palate is also a bit peachy! Peachy keen, if just a tad cloying... Still, a nice pleasant white with full bodied feel and sure to please some palates! 87-90
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White
2005 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc
92 points
Fresh grapefruit aroma. Palate is citrus, but also very nuanced and layered with different flavors. Lovely hint of pineapple on the fresh and crisp finish. Good character! 91-92+
White
2005 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc
90 points
Closed nose, but then very pear like. A nice medium bodied feel with lemon notes though a tad alcoholic. Good finish. 89-91
White
2005 Château Olivier Blanc
90 points
Lemon and lime aromas and flavors please and the wine has a nice smooth texture, but it is not rising into the realm of the sublime either! Again, good finish, and similar in profile to the above. 89-91
White
2005 Château Pape Clément Blanc
90 points
Nuanced nose of citrus and oak-derived flavors, though palate is at this stage too dominated by the oak. A fine full body, with notes of orange rind and tannic edge from the oak. Hopefully will round out? 89-91
White
2005 Château Picque Caillou Blanc
90 points
Peanut brittle nose, recalling #5 but palate here is a bit cloying, if candy-like; almost like a watermelon sour ball! This is OK, and will perhaps improve with time in barrel. 88-90
White
2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc
91 points
Candy notes with pineapple and nectarine. Palate is full-bodied though a tad alcoholic, but overall a very nice integration of oak and fruit and will certainly round out in barrel. 90-91+
White
2005 Château de Chantegrive Blanc
92 points
Cloudy straw color, nose has notes of pear and apricot, just enough notions of sweetness on the palate and with nice mineral notes, and a really nice finish. Impressive stuff. 91-93+
White
2005 Château Baret Blanc
90 points
Some 70% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has fresh fruit flavors with some oak; the palate is round yet nicely dry. Nice wine! 89-91. The red is good, too, with nice cherry nose, and plum on the palate with pretty intensity (89-91)
White
2005 Château Ferrande Blanc
88 points
Looks quite filtered - very clear - the nose is closed, shows slight expression of oak, with hints of pineapple. Not nearly as expressive as above and in fact lackluster in comparison, but not bad at all, just a bit shy. 87-89
Flight 3 - Graves and Pessac Leognan - RED (18 notes)
Red
2005 Château de Chantegrive Graves
89 points
Charcoal aromas and ripe plum, black cherry. The palate is a tad austere, a tad sour, also slightly hard and alcoholic, but overall not bad. 89-90
Red
2005 Château Ferrande
92 points
Strawberry candy nose with nuanced fruit, some cedar. An impression of elegance, with a slightly tangy palate, juicy with greater punch and depth than the above. 91-92+
Red
2005 Château Rahoul
92 points
First nose is a tad closed, but turns to fresh fruit salad; the palate is “cool” not minty, but fresh. Thirst quenching quality. White pepper on the finish. 91-92
Red
2005 Château Bouscaut
92 points
Closed nose, but then nice fruit expression with hints of mineral and spice. Palate is suave and tannins are velvety with chocolate flavors and not heavy in any way. An underperforming estate, this will not be expensive. Very fine! 91-93
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Red
2005 Domaine de Chevalier
89 points
Fresh, almost citrus like aromas with dill. The palate is however slightly hard with a muscle like feel. Awkward period? 88-89?
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Red
2005 Château de Fieuzal
91 points
Peppermint aroma, very mint, almost eucalyptus. Hints of licorice explode on the palate, which is very fine. The tannic texture is just okay, but good balance and a nice fresh finish. 90-92
Red
2005 Château de France
90 points
Nice cherry aroma; very beautiful aromas of red and black berries with cedar. But gum hitting palate. Good tobacco flavor, but perhaps over extracted? 89-92?
Red
2005 Château Haut-Bailly
93 points
Black fruit, blackberry aromas. Very sumptuous on the palate with red and black fruit plus cedar elegance. Palate shows a nice tannic structure, grainy, showing just a tad of alcoholic heat, but negligible. Nice finish. Very fine wine. 91-94
Red
2005 Château Haut-Bergey
88 points
Subtle licorice nose precedes a good fruity palate but nothing extraordinary at this early stage. Time in barrel should help. 87-89
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Red
2005 Château La Louvière
89 points
Shows a hint of green, but palate is juicy and thirst quenching. Grows minty with time in glass, pleasant. A certain austerity however, some toughness. Will round out with barrel aging, but not a super star either. 88-90+
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Red
2005 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion
88 points
Sweet plum pudding nose, with graphite. Intriguing and good, but palate attacks a bit hard. Smoothens out later, but perhaps too extracted? Shows quality whose hard edges should smoothen with barrel age. 87-89+
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Red
2005 Château Latour-Martillac
88 points
Fresh wintergreen aroma with white pepper. Palate slightly thin, indistinct, but shows fruit and freshness. 87-88+
Red
2005 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion
92 points
Spice and fruit and mint, mostly mint on this nice nose! Wine is full bodied with smooth, mouth-coating tannins again with mint flavors and a long finish. Very good! 90-93
Red
2005 Château Malartic-Lagravière
93 points
Nice, fresh almost floral with some plum and spice. Chocolate like palate shows also great balance and freshness with good acidity, leaving a very full- bodied and balanced impression on the finish. Really very good wine.
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Red
2005 Château Olivier
91 points
A bit of wintergreen though slightly closed nose. Palate is juicy, slightly hard in its tannin but there is finesse and fresh strawberry flavor and... a smooth finish. This should turn out into something nice. 89-92
Red
2005 Château Pape Clément
92 points
First nose is mineral, then tobacco, with a rich - though slightly alcoholic - palate, but overall impression is of a fun, big wine without being over- extracted. Good finish, too. 90-93
Red
2005 Château Picque Caillou
90 points
Subtle nose of spice, some ripe plum. Attack is supple, soft as are the tannins. Flavors of milk chocolate and not at all big, rather polite. Odd notes of nail polish make me wonder about the time of malolactic fermentation. Nice overall. 87-91
Red
2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
89 points
Charcoal and caramel nose, with notes coming from high- toasted oak... Indeed, some jus d'oak characteristics that do not appeal to me. But there is fruit and peppermint seeping through the wood. Shows much corpulence on the palate, too with a good, if slightly alcoholic finish. 88-90
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