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Ian's Piemonte Celebration Dinner

Tasted May 24, 2023 by fussyeater with 223 views

Flight 1 - Gougeres and cheddar (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Azienda Agricola Marcalberto Alta Langa Metodo Classico Nature Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Alta Langa
91 points
Very open fresh and citric driven. Light to medium bodied and quite lateral and easy going. Very nicely balanced and with good persistence. Fun and opened proceedings very well.

Flight 2 - Wild mushroom pasta (3 notes)

Red
2004 Roagna Barbaresco Pajè Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Rich nose showing leather, old books and decaying red fruits. Silky but with drying tannins and further into its tertiary window than one might have expected.
Red
2004 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Dried figs and red fruits on the nose that lead on to a wine with exquisite poise and balance and serious yet will disguised power. Very pure and compelling.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
Inexpressive nose. Medium to full bodied with a lovely mouthfeel where there is real presence and shape on the midpalate. Not particularly fruity (although red fruits) but not tertiary yet. Well balanced and certainly performing well rather than limited by the mediocre vintage. Drink now or leave if waiting for tertiary.

Flight 3 - Duck breast, pearl barley and morteau sausage ragout (3 notes)

Red
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
En magnum. Quite dense red and appears super fresh. Red fruits and touch of menthol on the nose. Medium to full bodied, rich, and with super silky luxurious tannins and exquisite balance but sufficient power to confidently age for many many decades, at least in mag format. Impressive and a serious treat, yet didn't steal anyone's hearts.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Nose shows blue fruits, tobacco, leather and spices. Full bodied and framed by velvety tannins and explodes on the midpalate with smoke, prune, coffee grinds, leather and decaying red fruit. Super rich and idiosyncratic but could not quite understand the appeal. Drank better without cuisine.
Red
1967 Cappellano Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
97 points
Colour looked correct, and nose showed old books, leather, flowers and tertiary red fruits. Medium bodied in profile and supremely silky showing exquisite balance, refinement and poise that was breath-taking. Despite approaching its 60th birthday (although a few years behind our host), it was by no means over the hill, or even approaching over the hill. Even revisiting the wine at the end of the evening it was still holding up well and I found the concentration and length remarkable. Hard to put into words. My WOTN.

Flight 4 - slow-cooked lamb, bread beans and peas ragout (2 notes)

Red
2010 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
92 points
Inexpressive nose, and medium to full bodied with round tannins and sappy acids. I found that the wine became a bit lost on the midpalate and lacked the delineation, midpalate concentration and clear delivery that I've experienced with other vintages. I normally find that Burlotto's wines are very soulful but it was not obvious. Still, a massive treat to try, thanks to our generous host.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
96 points
Really enticing nose showing rose petals and red fruits. Medium to full bodied with graceful silky tannins that disguise the considerable inner core of power. A really complete and well balanced wine with an endless (still fruit driven) finish. Outstanding. A faultless bottle.
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)

Flight 5 - selection of cheese (3 notes)

Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
Little colour evolution - looks very fresh and correct. Muted nose. Medium bodied, with gorgeous red fruit, pitch perfect acidity, seems young and extraordinary length. Defined by its sense of balance more than anything.
Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
95 points
Looks fresh as a daisy. Nose shows great purity showing dried flowers and red fruits. Medium bodied showcasing sublime fruit with amazing purity and freshness but not lacking in power. Exquisitely balanced with sappy acids. Really complete wine.
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)
Red
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Curiously the colour looks a bit more evolved than the 1996s. Menthol on the nose and lavender. Medium to full bodied and seems more spicy on the palate with slightly cloying tannins. I found it lacked the balance and charm of the 1996s although perhaps I should have been more patient.

Flight 6 - encore (1 note)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Dans un Premier Temps Assemblage Extra Brut France, Champagne
92 points
Really fresh, elegant and showed citric energy, persistence, and focus with good length. V welcome way to close the book on a fantastic wine dinner.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

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