Berry Brothers 2017 Bordeaux en primeur (plus back vintages) Lindley Hall, London
Lindley Hall, London
Tasted Wednesday, July 4, 2018 by BenBlu with 503 views
Introduction
(quoted from Berry invitation) Set in the Edwardian splendour of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Lindley Hall, off leafy Vincent Square in Pimlico, the tasting is an annual fixture for many and offers an ideal opportunity to those new to buying Bordeaux en-primeur, and seasoned campaigners alike, a chance to taste a cask sample of the new vintage against an older vintage and discuss the merits of both with the owner or representative of the Châteaux themselves. (quote end)
Flight 1 (24 Notes)
Closing
A truly fantastic way to bring Bordeaux to London. What a line-up of fabulous classed Bordeaux producers. With the exception of some 2nd growth (Ducru Beaucaillou, Leoville Poyferre) and the 1st growth. The left bank was particularly well represented, but there were also some good right bank representatives. In total there were around 60 chateaux present showcasing their 2017 en primeur wine and one back vintage (quite varied, including 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014). This made for a great opportunity to taste a variety of wines in an informal setting. Quite a lot to go through and unfortunately the time window was a bit narrow (I had 2 hours), so we decided to focus mainly on the back vintages. Overall I found the quality of wines tasted to be very high and "off vintages" such as 08 and 12 surprised to the upside. they also all offered a high degree of immediate appeal and drinkability. Probably a testimony to where modern wine-making has progressed to. A bit tough to concentrate and taking notes on events like these so the notes are a bit brief.
2008 Château Beychevelle 88 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Lack of fruit, classic but weak in the context of the other wines tasted and a a side note also poor QPR. Probably one to drink now-2025 as I don't see it making old bones.
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2006 Château Calon-Ségur 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Wonderful nose and initially on the first sip the palate fell a bit short of the intoxicating nose. Some more swirling and patience unveiled a lovely earthy and truffle notes. A classic St Estephe, slightly on the lean side fruit wise but will probably blossom even more with a few years in bottle. Good for the vintage.
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2009 Château Climens 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Bouquet of pineapple, passion fruit, pear - lovely acidity. Not as fat as the 07 I had a few times recently but probably a bit more balanced. This is a very good Bersac. And certainly those sweet wines (bar Yquem) are not selling for the price they should given how painstaking it is to produce them. So certainly very good value here. The Rieussec 09 (not tasted at this event) may be a bit better though in my view and sells for even less money.
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2008 Château Clinet 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
A positive surprise - good concentration without being heavy or showing heat (a Clos Fourtet 10 which was a great wine was probably too much on the hot side by contrast), displaying Pomerol characteristics of crushed stone and kirsch liquor. Very good already and drinking. One of my wines of the night.
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2010 Clos Fourtet 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Complex nose of wild strawberries, undergrowth. It was served a tiny bit on the warm side (it was a hot day in London and most chilled they wines on and off on ice - this one was above 20 degrees C) and it did show a bit of heat (vis a vis the Clinet 08 which had more precision) which I do not love too much. Probably a slightly colder serving temperature would have been better. It nonetheless showed lovely ripe waves of fruit on the palate, powerful stuff and a "modern" wine.
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2012 Château La Conseillante 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Crushed stones, kirsch, walking the line between measured and full throttle. A strong and typical Pomerol. Some upside from here.
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2008 Château Cos d'Estournel 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Very dark colour in the glass, expansive on the nose and palate, great fruit (surprised for the vintage), already enjoyable but with a long future ahead. Must be one of the top off vintage Cos. 93+
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2014 Domaine de Chevalier 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
One of the weaker wines that I tried this evening. Subdued fruit, very tannic, tough to read but probably won't turn into a spectacular Domaine Chevalier... But would like to retry to confirm this further down the line.
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2011 Château Figeac 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Fairly high acidity here, comes across as a bit lean at first but with some swirling in the glass it wakes up to be a classic, if not great, St Emilion. Good wine but for the chateau nothing spectacular.
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2008 Château Haut-Bailly 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
This was a curious one. I had this first time round and noted "good concentration, lilac, cherry, mineral - very strong performance" and scored it 94-95 to be pretty much my wine of the night. When I came back to try another sample it showed much less appealing and I noted "very closed and lean" and hard to score this above 90-91 really. So a blended 93 but two quite different showings due to what must have been bottle variation.
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2008 Château d'Issan 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
One of the lightest wines that evening, coming across as very feminine. Lacking the stuffing or fruit to be a very good wine and probably a wine to be enjoyed earlier rather then later.
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2011 Château Guiraud 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From Imperial - quite lovely really, not very sweet, very finely balanced. A dancer of a Sauternes that would work well with a rhubarb tart or other fruit tarts in my view. Nice.
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2008 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
This was another very positive surprise of the tasting and a vintage I expected less of. My notion was that Lagrange is one to buy in top vintages only (which I do and I drink lots of Lagrange and think the 90 and 96 are in a perfect spot now). This 08 showed very classic gravely, with good grip and solid fruit. Strong showing. Drinking now - 2030. The representative was so kind as to gift me a bottle towards the end of the evening (which made me very happy but I have not adjusted the score up, I promise ;-).
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2010 Château Latour-Martillac 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Probably the best QPR of the night tasted. And in absolute terms a wine that also ranked towards the top quartile. Black in the glass, full bodied, showing mineral, lovely balance, ethereal and long. What more could you want from a Bordeaux. Very good indeed!
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2008 Château Léoville Barton 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Hugely perfumed (from bottle that was JUST opened in front of me), kirsch liquor, very full throttle in fact and blind I could have mistaken this for a (good) Pomerol. Lovely.
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2017 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Ruby red, lovely acidity, very promising 93-95
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2004 Château Léoville Las Cases 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
This was the oldest of the wines on show. And it visually showed with some clear browning, classic 04 nose and palate (old school Bordeaux, a bit lean fruit), slightly rustic a la 04 vintage. I think the 04s are drinking now before they loose too much fruit. Classic claret.
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2005 Château Montrose 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Very curious to check in on that as I own a lot of them and when I tasted it a few years ago it was tough to read. This has visually developed and in fact showed older then I would have thought with clear browning. This is a very balanced wine and there is lots going on in a very delectable way - undergrowth, kirsch, mineral, a touch of pepper, long finish. Classic & complete. And funnily it reminded me a bit of the 05 Mouton on that occasion. So I am very pleased with where this is headed and one could now broach it with a decant but patience surely is going to be rewarded. 95+ and drinking window probably 2020-2045
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2010 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Black in the glass, one immediately recognises that this is (going to be) a monument of a wine. First a lot of red fruit on the palate, ending with a spectacular graphite finale. Fantastic. Will it become as good as the 1990??? Fingers crossed. Of course too young to drink now. 2030-2050. 95/96 today with 2-3 points of upside if all comes together. WOTN most likely.
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2005 Château Suduiraut 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
I was very curious to taste this as I heard it recently won the 05 sweet wine at a merchant tasting with many known wine critics present beating Yquem and all others. I really wanted to be thrilled by this wine. The truth is that it is a hugely interesting wine. Incredibly perfumed, intriguing and lots going on but it ended with a pronounced lavender taste/note that I found borderline sickening. It might be a great sweet wine in many people's book but it was simply not my flavor profile. I liked all other sweet wines tasted more. So I am reflecting this in the score as after all it is reflecting my personal taste. But do try for yourself.
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2005 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 88 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
As per a previous note - this wine simply is not coming good for a top 2nd growth. Disappointing and I am with Bob here.
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2006 Château Pontet-Canet 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
High acidity, lean, lack of fruit. I found this one of the weakest wines tasted that night. It is interesting that I see Neal scores this very high, and he also likes the 06 Mouton a lot and I found no real appeal in either of those. Maybe I am blind to the potential those wines offer.
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2014 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
One of the positive surprises of the tasting and probably one of the best QPR. Nice tannins, still needs time of course but showing lovely red fruits and great balance. Very promising and clearly beating the Domaine Chevalier 14 at this tasting. 93+
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2011 Château Troplong Mondot 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Mineral, balanced, gravely, classic but a tiny bit lean. Good wine for the vintage.
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