I always think of Paul Bara as very Pinot Noir-centric, but I found this wine to show both Chardonnay and Pinot features, with both apple and berry character, all in a bright and tight package. Good weight, good length.
A really great Village wine. Plenty of ripe apple with some stone fruit and sweet spice notes throughout. Clearly lush and rich, nicely layered, with wonderful brightness for its age.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Popped-and-poured. Dark color and slightly musty start, but this freshened up brightly within 15-20 minutes and stayed enticing for the rest of the evening. Fresh and dried ripe apricot with candied ginger. Good weight and length, this kept changing and unfolding in interesting ways, even if not quite as great as the very best bottles from the same case opened over the past few years.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Bottle had been opened the night before. Fleshy and rich with good density, this is slightly sweet while nicely balanced, but slightly lacking the brightness I expect from the very good 2017 1er Crus at this level. If served blind, I would have thought 2018 instead of 2017.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Opened 20 minutes before serving. A real success for the vintage, both in terms of the pleasure provided as well as its expression of Vosne terroir. Lots of mature red cherry with a bunch of earth. Nose was more earthy, nearly dirty, but palate quite clean and enjoyable. If served blind, I'd have certainly though this from Vosne, but probably 1er Cru, from a better vintage (1991?). Much less interesting when re-tasted at the end of the evening.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
In mid-aged CSJ flight. Classically Gevrey with so much black fruit and meat, this was very lush for the vintage (I might have thought 2002 if served blind) with very good density and balance. Very harmonious and balanced all evening.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Wonderful aromatic start of ripe black plum and cherry, perhaps a bit of new oak coming through. Less precise on palate, less robust, more earthy. I haven't opened a bottle in almost a decade, and this wasn't quite as enjoyable tonight vs back in 2012.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lots here, all classically meaty and Gevrey. Powerful black fruit with earth hints and still firm. Not quite harmonious to start, more balance emerged with more time in glass. From the same case as a sensational bottle opened a few months ago, but not quite as great.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Opened a couple of hours before serving. Again lots here with impressive concentration. This was too firm and structured when initially poured, but then even more backward 20-30 minutes later. Where/ when will this emerge from its current state?
2012 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Special Club 90 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
I always think of Paul Bara as very Pinot Noir-centric, but I found this wine to show both Chardonnay and Pinot features, with both apple and berry character, all in a bright and tight package. Good weight, good length.
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2001 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Way, way, way past its peak.
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2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
A really great Village wine. Plenty of ripe apple with some stone fruit and sweet spice notes throughout. Clearly lush and rich, nicely layered, with wonderful brightness for its age.
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1980 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Popped-and-poured. Dark color and slightly musty start, but this freshened up brightly within 15-20 minutes and stayed enticing for the rest of the evening. Fresh and dried ripe apricot with candied ginger. Good weight and length, this kept changing and unfolding in interesting ways, even if not quite as great as the very best bottles from the same case opened over the past few years.
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2017 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Bottle had been opened the night before. Fleshy and rich with good density, this is slightly sweet while nicely balanced, but slightly lacking the brightness I expect from the very good 2017 1er Crus at this level. If served blind, I would have thought 2018 instead of 2017.
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1994 Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Opened 20 minutes before serving. A real success for the vintage, both in terms of the pleasure provided as well as its expression of Vosne terroir. Lots of mature red cherry with a bunch of earth. Nose was more earthy, nearly dirty, but palate quite clean and enjoyable. If served blind, I'd have certainly though this from Vosne, but probably 1er Cru, from a better vintage (1991?). Much less interesting when re-tasted at the end of the evening.
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2001 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
In mid-aged CSJ flight. Classically Gevrey with so much black fruit and meat, this was very lush for the vintage (I might have thought 2002 if served blind) with very good density and balance. Very harmonious and balanced all evening.
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1996 Domaine Bartet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Wonderful aromatic start of ripe black plum and cherry, perhaps a bit of new oak coming through. Less precise on palate, less robust, more earthy. I haven't opened a bottle in almost a decade, and this wasn't quite as enjoyable tonight vs back in 2012.
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1995 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Domaine Louis Jadot 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Lots here, all classically meaty and Gevrey. Powerful black fruit with earth hints and still firm. Not quite harmonious to start, more balance emerged with more time in glass. From the same case as a sensational bottle opened a few months ago, but not quite as great.
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1996 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 89 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Opened a couple of hours before serving. Again lots here with impressive concentration. This was too firm and structured when initially poured, but then even more backward 20-30 minutes later. Where/ when will this emerge from its current state?
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1989 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ripe and mature black fruit aromas and flavors with both sweet and savory spice notes. Enticing nose, good palate, very engaging overall.
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